Hey man! Doing very well, hope you are too! Just a busy year, especially getting married in October, so a lot of calories and money are going that way instead. Also, it's just been too hot and muggy around here to get out and enjoy buzzing around the Goblin! I've been waiting on the end of...
Boy, it's been a while. So the situation with my power issue above has not occurred since. Chalk that one up to monkey brain during assembly of the starter/battery cables.
I finally got the DF billet shifter kit, and installed it a couple weeks ago. Fully worth the upgrade if you have the stock...
As long as the suspension clearance spec went up (as in the tire moved away) compared to stock in that first image you posted, then everything looks good. Don't forget you're gaining 5mm (0.197") to push the wheel/tire further out if you go with the spacer, but that probably won't affect much at...
Alignment would be the first place I would start for stability. The toe being out of spec can cause massive stability issues with the Goblins, even at low speeds.
I realized I also never posted mine here for reference:
Goblin Builder: Corgithulhu
Chassis Number: 318
Frame Type / Color: Extended full cage/purple
Donor Year / Engine: ‘07 2.0L supercharged
Wheel Make / Model: Konig Countergram p/n CT8751438C
Front Wheel - Size / Offset / Bolt Pattern: 17x8...
If you're leaking a lot and bone dry around the top where the clutch line connects, then you could have a leaky slave cylinder which I think is fairly common on aging Cobalts. Mine used to leak a few drops when I first built the Goblin, but it seems to be fine now. Once I pull the engine back...
Just linking the tool I used:
https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/
I like it because it actually overlays the original and new options over each other so you get a better visual of stick-outage and suspension intrusion. Here's a snapshot of my results:
The inside is about half an...
I used this tool pretty heavily to work up my fitment: https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/
OEM Cobalt SS tires, at least my 2007 SS/SC, are 215/45-18 with +42mm offset wheels and no factory spacers.
I went with 245/45-17 tires on +38mm offset wheels with 25mm (1 inch) spacers. If you...
+1 to letting it cool. There's something cathartic about hearing it click and pop as the plastic and bed cool and release the print. It's almost impossible to get a large flat surface, like more than a few square inches, to pull off the bed when it's still hot.
I think you'll be very happy...
I see the O'Reilly down here in Mauldin has it in stock per their website. Any local parts for my Goblin came from those guys and they know it well, so they'd be excited if you told them about yours!
It's a bit higher, but it's well documented, so you should be able to correct issues as they come up. I found it to be much stringier, and just never went back to trying it.
I do also use hair spray sparingly on my beds. My Ender 3 has a glass bed that's nothing more than cheapo Lowe's glass...
I would recommend starting printing with PLA first. It's more forgiving than PETG and ASA, and is much stronger than people make it seem. Especially the PLA+ variants a lot of brands have now. I use eSun PLA+ almost exclusively, and there are parts on my Goblin made of it that still look brand...
Make sure the tabs on the starter lug are all clean and free of corrosion. Since we jostle their position around on that starter stud during the disassembly of the Cobalt and assembly of the Goblin, it's possible to get a bad positive voltage connection. Mine were corroded (and a washer I...
The alternator positive cable and the jumper post on the fuse box should be electrically identical. They meet with the battery cable at the starter lug.
I don't believe so. IIRC, the backup switch has a notch between the pins inside the connector. The speed sensor has a kind of slice of bread shape without a notch:
All the Goblins get the Cobalt reservoir relocated to along side the master cylinder. The album in Adam's original post is just for the late model donors.
From what I can tell in the wiring diagram, power goes to that backup switch, and then through light green wire to the backup bulbs. So if you can measure 12V at both pins on the switch, then that light green wire is getting power from somewhere. The pink wire at the backup light switch should...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.