06 FE5 sway bar change to FE1

[baustin]

One of the things I've considered changing about my build is the sway bar. I currently have the 06 SS SC 24mm sway bar. I'm under the impression that if I want to change to the 18mm FE1 style then I'll need to get the sway bar, the end links, and the bushings but the bushing brackets are reused.

Currently I have the end links that are just under 10" long. Bushings are still stock and are held in place by 1 bolt on each bracket, see images, they tab into the sub frame. I think I've read about some cobalt versions using 2 bolt style brackets instead of 1 bolt.

If I go the junk yard route for parts, is there a year range I should limit my search?

 

[Gtstorey]

You can source the entire assembly from Rockauto for less than $100. My Cobalt came with aftermarket sway bar that are even larger so I've been looking at options.

 

[Ross]

Why even run a anti-sway bar on the rear? The Goblin needs traction on the drive wheels, and a sway bar takes weight off the inside tire when turning. I would suggest a sway bar on the front.

 

[baustin]

Why even run a anti-sway bar on the rear? The Goblin needs traction on the drive wheels, and a sway bar takes weight off the inside tire when turning. I would suggest a sway bar on the front.

I might just remove it and see if I like it but I figured I'd ask since I want running across the info in a quick search.

While the idea of a front sway bar sounds nice from a performance perspective, I don't have the means to do anything like that.

With the current rear sway bar, I think the car oversteers a little too much. It's predictable but I'd prefer at least a little less oversteer since I just street drive.

 

[ccannx]

I ordered a kit for a non SS it came with the 18mm bar and the single bolt brackets but that did not match my 2 bolt bracket style subframe of the 07ss

I made a sway bar for the front after seeing George’s and it made a massive difference in rear grip. I believe a rear bar will have a similar effect to the front as opposed to the rear.

 

[Ross]

Adding a rear sway bar will make the oversteer issue worse, as it will remove grip from the rear.
Reducing the size of the rear sway bar will help remove oversteer. So will removing it. That is free to try!
I change my springs to balance a car.
If your front springs are lighter than the rear, then switch them, and see if that fixes it.
Otherwise, you can buy springs. 2.5"IDx10" springs are available in lots of sizes, and dual rate..

 

[baustin]

I'll probably just pull the one I have off and see how I like it. Sounds like if I want to use the 18mm bar instead then the rock auto option is the simplest/cheapest.

 

[Iwanttogofast]

I used a 2007 SS/SC as my donor, but got a super clean subframe from a non-SS car. It came with the smaller 18mm sway bar and all of the hardware. I am planning on using this in my build, but here's my dilemma... My donor SS/SC car had the FE5 suspension, and the subframe and sway bar that I will be using are for an FE1/FE3 suspension. I don't know which sway bar links I will need - the Moog K750012 @ 9.86", or the Moog K80252 @ 11.8". Where is the length variance in the FE5, as opposed to the FE1/FE3? Is it different in the sway bar dimensions, or at the strut mount side?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The longer links are specified for the NA 18mm bar and the shorter links are the larger SS bars 21mm and 24mm. The sway bar end on the SS bar is longer than the NA bar - the bent part the arm. The longer link is meant to keep the sway bar horizontal when mounted.

 

[Rttoys]

I used the shorter SS end links on the non-ss bar so the bar wouldn’t hang so low.

 

[Gtstorey]

I used the shorter SS end links on the non-ss bar so the bar wouldn’t hang so low.

Me too