#180, SpeedHacks City, 06' SS, Take 2

speedhacks

Active Member
16996


Original floor pan was painted black but chipping all over. I stripped the entire thing and wrapped it. Back in it goes.

16997


I pull the wiring harness and wrap tomorrow now that it's confirmed good.

Also. It was my first time putting in rivets. The ones I got in we're not fun. I think might need an air version to finish. The handheld one I have is too small.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Firmly push down and squeeze. Repeat usually 3 times to make the rivet pop. It can be a little awkward, but it should work just fine.
 

speedhacks

Active Member
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Finally able to get back into this. Ive had some progress for a while but not sharing. Been focused on some health improvements so the hobby slipped to the side.

Front and rear suspension coming along nicely. New axles ordered. Getting the subframe was a bit tricky. Harness wrapping is mostly finished. I need to figure out what a few of the wires are that I can't remember.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
View attachment 16996

Original floor pan was painted black but chipping all over. I stripped the entire thing and wrapped it. Back in it goes.

View attachment 16997

I pull the wiring harness and wrap tomorrow now that it's confirmed good.

Also. It was my first time putting in rivets. The ones I got in we're not fun. I think might need an air version to finish. The handheld one I have is too small.
Harbor Freight has a cheap hand one that will work up to 1/4". I have the first one at it does great in 3/16.
Heavy Duty 17-1/2" Hand Riveter With Collection Bottle (harborfreight.com)

13 In. Heavy Duty Professional Hand Riveter (harborfreight.com)
 

speedhacks

Active Member
For reference,
Nankang 245/40/15 AR1s on Konig Free-form 15x9.5
I wanted a bit of stretch to tighten up the sidewall. Lots of the miata guys are doing this with good success.

They do make a 275/35/15 which is interesting as well.

I went this direction because I wanted a soft compound tire due to the low weight of the car and still DOT. Hoping it works out.
 

Scott #321

Well-Known Member
Nice please report on what you think of the tires, I considered the nankank 275/40/17 but would up ordering Nitto NT01 due to the unavailability of R888r's.
 

speedhacks

Active Member
26907


OK. So. This was evil. The boots were shot. Decided to. Just rip and replace, which is easier said than done.

Driver side wasn't too bad. Passenger side not so much. Had to use a 90' pry bar and a sledge hammer. There was a lot of rust in the way. The replacement will go in with anti seize.
 

speedhacks

Active Member
New axle seals. This is the second attempt after I botched the first ones. 2" to 1 1/2" pvc adapter worked like a charm.
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Passenger suspension completed.
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Awaiting delivery of my second axle.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Is the swaybar from your SS donor or one from a NA? Note the SS bar (24mm) is far too aggressive and can result in an oversteer condition. Not saying it can't be used, but many builders on the forum have opted for the NA bar (18mm). :) And good progress!
 

speedhacks

Active Member
Oh wow. I did not know that. Oversteer could be quite undesirable. It is the standard SS. I will look into the NA option.

Also, I am super excited to get it finished!! I think I am nearly parts complete. Waiting on the shifter from a fellow message board person.

I will need a second seat. And harnesses as well now thinking about it a bit more. Found one for a really good price on eBay.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
You can run without it. I did install a “comfort ride” sway bar from dorman, that’s basically a stock ls cobalt sway bars.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
It's also super easy to do a before and after, theoretically you can just remove the endlink from one strut and zip tie it to the sway bar. Just have to make sure the sway bar won't contact the control arm. I wish I'd kept mine to do a before and after test.
 

1966tbird

Member
Hey folks, I’m looking for a 24mm Cobalt sway bar. Couldn’t find one over with Lonny today.
Could use some of the other unneeded parts such as brakes parts need a new home.
Let me know
Thanks
From Wonderful Waxahachie,TX
 

speedhacks

Active Member
Hurray, CAD designed and 3D printed my first part. I was having trouble sourcing (brake rotor / hub rings) for the front hubs I have which are 4x100. I had ones for the rear (with solstice calipers). Which kind of makes sense. I purchased brand new 4x100 hubs, not the stock 5x110 and had them drilled. I also recognize that this may be unnecessary as the bolt holes line it up fairly well already.

Pictures here, and attached STL file if anyone else wants something to work with. Tweaked it a few times to get it right. Sliced with CURA and printed on an Ender 3 v2. I recommend using a brim to keep it stuck to the bed. Fits perfect.

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Attachments

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Similar to the design I printed recently to get 16oz Coors Light bottles to fit properly in my Frost Buddy! Sure is handy having a 3D printer!
 
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