I thought this one was the MAF.
Yeah, I see the connection. Those pins are not easily accessible, and they are bent just a bit. Wish me luck reconnecting it.
Absolutely nothing electrically speaking.
- Thread starter barichuk
- Start date
Goblin Graber
Well-Known Member
I went back and looked at my 2.2 auto that’s in my garage still hooked up and the purple MAF plug has 5 pins. The coil pack plugs have 4 wires like your pic
These two plug into the back of your turn signal stock.
Not necessary to start the engine.
This is your OBDII
Not necessary to start the engine.
This is your brake fluid level sensor plug.
Not necessary to start the engine.
This plugs into the small gray box that was on top of your donor's dash. It is a key fob receiver and tire pressure monitor.
Not necessary to start the engine.
This is the Horn plug.
Not necessary to start the engine.
These are cooling fan connectors. I think. I know the top one is.
Not necessary to start the engine.
Ambient air temperature.
Not necessary to start the engine.
The right I believe is for EVAP. Not sure about the other.
One of the O2 sensors.
Not necessary to start the engine.
AC plugs.
Not needed
Transmission main plug.
A lot of things will not work if this is not connected.
If you have not attached your shifter cable you will need to manually shift the transmission into park.
It will not start if the transmission is not in park or neutral.
Before you try to turn the engine over make sure you have looped the transmission cooler lines or you are going to have a mess to clean up.
Until you get your MAF tube hooked to your engine leave the MAF unplugged. The engine will run very poorly if it is plugged in and does not have air being pulled across it by the engine. It will run fine without it.
The wires from left are black, green, brown, and brown with a black tracer.
Attachments
That part of the harness includes spark plug wires.
Attachments
Thanks much. No hurry. I have plenty to work on!
Update: I have found all the connections and plugged them in. The transmission plug went in after some manipulation. Apparently there was some damage to this plug in the donor collision and it is not secure. Now when I connect the battery I hear relays in the BCM. The little light in the automatic shifter (my tell-tale) does not come on until I turn the key to 'on'. The dash comes on with a yellow light of a padlock, which goes out quickly. When I push the brake pedal a lever in the shifter moves, and when I turn the key to 'start' I again hear relays in the BCM., but I have no starter. When the key is turned off ('acc') the little tell-tale in the shift is still on (timer?), which makes me think the key is still on, so I disconnect the battery. I have power to the ECM. The advice I have gotten from this forum has been invaluable and if I forget to say thanks, I apologise.
Goblin Graber
Well-Known Member
The light in the shifter will stay on due to the car having Retained Accessory Power. Like finishing the song you were listening to before opening the door and the radio shuts off.
Some people have gone back and added a momentary switch to trigger the BCM into thinking you opened the drivers to kill the RAP. Otherwise you can just let it time out and it will be fine.
What was the purple plug in pic #8? I couldn’t find a plug like that on my engine harness anywhere.
Some people have gone back and added a momentary switch to trigger the BCM into thinking you opened the drivers to kill the RAP. Otherwise you can just let it time out and it will be fine.
What was the purple plug in pic #8? I couldn’t find a plug like that on my engine harness anywhere.
Goblin Graber said he thought it was the EVAP. Lonny said he was not sure, and would get back with me later.
So if I leave the key in what I call 'acc', then it is actually off?
Goblin Graber
Well-Known Member
No ACC is still accessory, but turning it all the way OFF will still give you power for a set amount of time or until you trick it into thinking you opened the drivers door.
Can you still not turn the key all the way to OFF and take the key out? My ignition switch on my bench has the keys stuck in it. There’s an interlock in the ignition switch, at least in automatics, that won’t let you turn it all the way off without power.
Can you still not turn the key all the way to OFF and take the key out? My ignition switch on my bench has the keys stuck in it. There’s an interlock in the ignition switch, at least in automatics, that won’t let you turn it all the way off without power.
The key has 3 positions, what I am calling 'acc', 'on', and 'start'. The key will come out in all 3 positions.
Latest situation: Thought it might be a bad starter, but it checked good. While the starter was disconnected I had nothing when I turned the key. Put starter back in, turned key, and same as before. Dash lights, BCM relays, but no starter. Voltage is continuous 12 volt, even with key off (seems odd to me). There is no voltage to the small pin next to it. Guy at parts store said I needed 4 or 5 volts there; it told the starter to go ahead and crank. What is this telling me (besides I don't know what I am doing!)?
Ross
Goblin Guru
To jump start your starter motor, just provide 12 volts positive to the small purple wire, or the post that it bolts to.
Once you do this, the relay will make a loud click, and the big wire goes to your battery, will then provide power to the starter motor positive wire.
I still have an intermittent data issue with my car, so sometime it won't start unless I jump the starter.
You might have a data issue too. If the PCM can't communicate on the high speed GMLAN, then it doesn't know you have requested a start.
Once you do this, the relay will make a loud click, and the big wire goes to your battery, will then provide power to the starter motor positive wire.
I still have an intermittent data issue with my car, so sometime it won't start unless I jump the starter.
You might have a data issue too. If the PCM can't communicate on the high speed GMLAN, then it doesn't know you have requested a start.
"Voltage is continuous 12 volt, even with key off." Where are you checking that you have 12 volts?
If it is the battery cable with the large copper lug that is bolted to the starter it should have a constant 12 volts any time the battery is hooked up.
"There is no voltage to the small pin next to it." What color is the wire?
I don't think it should have any power unless you're turning the key to the start position.
If you will post images along with your info it will help us visualize the problems and find solutions.
If it is the battery cable with the large copper lug that is bolted to the starter it should have a constant 12 volts any time the battery is hooked up.
"There is no voltage to the small pin next to it." What color is the wire?
I don't think it should have any power unless you're turning the key to the start position.
If you will post images along with your info it will help us visualize the problems and find solutions.
I jumped it and the starter spun. Keep in mind I am a complete electrical illiterate here! What are PCM and GMLAN, please.
That wire (I think it 'requests' a start) is purple.
