Aftermarket solid shifter?

Peregrinus

Well-Known Member
I don't think it's worth it at all for $10 savings.
The original ebay listing is "make an offer" I got mine for $130, I bet if u tried 120-125 it'd still sell
 

Brett

Well-Known Member
This is the pricing that I got back this morning from the seller on Alibaba:

80$/unit 50 pcs
shipping cost by UPS :850$ for 50pcs
total:4850$

85$/unit for 10 pcs
shipping cost by UPS180$ for 10pcs
total:1030$

I am checking to see if they are the actual manufacture and if the can do the base.

Brett
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
This is the pricing that I got back this morning from the seller on Alibaba:

80$/unit 50 pcs
shipping cost by UPS :850$ for 50pcs
total:4850$

85$/unit for 10 pcs
shipping cost by UPS180$ for 10pcs
total:1030$

I am checking to see if they are the actual manufacture and if the can do the base.

Brett
Or get them w/o the current base.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Sudden perceived increase in demand is possibly making them bump up their price expectations.
And there are other sellers that might take the lower offer, I decided it wasn't worth the hassle of possibly having one that mounts to the base differently for the few bucks saved.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Honestly by the time you get them for 100$ plus another 12-15 to ship them back out and manage it all I don't see its worth it to save 20$

Nuker-
I could see the value though if someone assembles a sold complete kits, Shifter, adaptor plate and hardware.

That being said, I wouldn't take it on. :)
 
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SACTX

Well-Known Member
A small update. The shifter works as designed. I was not able to drive this weekend from having some plans and fighting the weather but I was able to get everything connected and it'll go through the gears just fine.

Some notes:
1. It is much stiffer in the side to side motion. This might be partially because I don't have a slippery washer between the rod end and the shifter arm.
2. The pattern is much-much smaller. I had the OTTP short shifter and this is a smaller pattern than that. I was trying to get it into 5th and reverse and over shifting to the passenger side.
3. There is not any extra room on the front to back pattern and this could affect installation and adjustment. There is not room in the pattern to tilt the rod back and still be able to make it into 2nd and 4th. They engage just before the rod makes contact with the mount. The wiggle in the see-saw lever is enough to have it make contact. I'm thinking about ways to take out some of that wiggle. The bottom ball-joint connector has some more adjustment to shorten the throw but it's only about 1/8" away from the base plate right now so we may need to shim up the shifter or adjust the cutout in the plate a little.

I'm hoping to drive it today or tomorrow to get some more review time in.

Installation parts that I used:
1. Bottom of shift rod - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/6058K861 - Stainless Steel Ball Joint - M8x1.25 with M8 lock nut
2. Ball Joint to all-thread - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/92499A891 - Stainless Steel Male-Female Hex Adapter M8x1.25 to 3/8-16
3. Bottom of left to right shift arm - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/59915K42 - Stainless Steel Rod End - 1/4-28 with 1/4-20 attachment bolt and nyloc nut
4. Rod End to all-thread - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/92499A139 - Stainless Steel Male-Female Hex Adapter 1/4-28 to 3/8-16
5. All-thread - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/94435A523 - Aluminum 3/8-16 all thread 2' long - for weight - you can use stainless if it's a concern.
6. All-thread to DF Ball joint - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/91646A142 - Aluminum Male-Female Hex Adapter M6x1 to 3/8-16 (2 needed)
7. Lock nuts - Grade 8 - 3/8-16 hex nuts without washers - Be careful tightening them since they're on aluminum all-thread (4 needed)
8. Mounting bolts from base plate to shifter - Grade 8 - 5/16-18 x 1 1/2" long hex head bolts with flat washer and lock washer on each one (4 needed)
9. Mounting bolts from base plate to car - DF supplied mounting bolts. Will need to change to 1/2" longer bolts on final installation. (4 needed)
10. Shifter Knob - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077N8MN8M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - Cheap Amazon Weighted ball with adapters - needs to be M10x1.5 (Different than any aftermarket for the Cobalt)

Attached are pictures of this installation. It'll be the same when the Aluminum Base is finished. It looks VERY nice and I really like it. I can tell you with 100% certainty that any problems I run into will be worked out and I will NOT be going back to the other shifter. Really, I don't think there will be any problems because I've been shifting it in the garage without any problems.
 

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Fozda

Goblin Guru
I see you used the bottom hole for the side to side lever. I used the top because it seemed much closer to the amount of throw the lever on the transmission requires. Also, how far out from the bottom of the shift lever do you have the ball connector?
 

SACTX

Well-Known Member
I forgot to add to the post above and wanted it noticed.

I cut the cable mount off of the back of the shifter at 2 7/8" from the front end. This will align pretty closely to the edge of the base when the shifter is in the rearmost position. It's about 1/8" or so from the front cable mount.
 

Attachments

SACTX

Well-Known Member
I see you used the bottom hole for the side to side lever. I used the top because it seemed much closer to the amount of throw the lever on the transmission requires. Also, how far out from the bottom of the shift lever do you have the ball connector?
I used the bottom to shorten the throw. I really like the throw vs the shortened stock throw. There is more front to back throw than left to right. This might also be why it's so much stiffer side to side.

That ball joint has a 17.5mm stud and is 31mm from center to end of stud. The back of the ball joint is about 1/8" or so, just eyeballing it, from the base. I'll have to measure it later today.
 

SACTX

Well-Known Member
I see you used the bottom hole for the side to side lever. I used the top because it seemed much closer to the amount of throw the lever on the transmission requires. Also, how far out from the bottom of the shift lever do you have the ball connector?
I have 3/16 of an inch under the ball to the plate. It’s hard for me to measure the actual thread distance because of where it is.

Not taking into account the wiggle, the pattern is 3 inches front to back, 3rd to 4th, and a little over 2 inches side to side from 2nd to reverse. This is measured at the centerline of the ball or as close as I can get to it off of reference points inside the car.

I will add a video later if I can get one.
 
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