AleX1/9's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor - Chassis #18 - WA registered

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Did you think about some aluminum or steel for the support of the windscreen? Via lamination between the layers of fiberglass.
Yah I planned on adding some structure with both steel and added layers of glass. Now that I have the foam pulled out the back I’m gonna put it back on the goblin and make a mock windshield with cardboard and see how much room/ clearance there is with the brake booster and such.

I did notice DF uses some simple simple L brackets so maybe it doesn’t need much...

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AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
If you can stomach the price the Aerocatch is defintely the way to go. They are nice!
I’ve used the aerocatch pins before on an S2000 I had, and I do like them (other than the junk hardware they come with). They need about an inch of clearance under the mounting surface which I wasn’t sure I would have. So I went with the old school surface mount Sparco pins.

Plus they’re cheap and they go with all the Sparco stuff already installed!
 

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Spent the evening making this crude bracket for the hood pins using the upper radiator mount tabs. It’s getting crowded down here!

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Also got the measurements for the available brooklands screens and made some cardboard templates to see if I would like it...

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Not real crazy about it :/ probably going to try a 1 piece template next
 

SliderR1

Well-Known Member
IC system is totally separated from the engine coolant. I can't remember off hand, but I think the 'up' line should go to your fill tube then back down and to the HE.
 

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
IC system is totally separated from the engine coolant. I can't remember off hand, but I think the 'up' line should go to your fill tube then back down and to the HE.
Ok what I have so far is 2 lines from the heat exchanger in the front back to the engine - unknown location for connection. Then I have a T hose
Some plumbing was finished. Passenger side I ended up using a 1.25" stainless tube. Drivers side I used another aluminum 90 like on the front.



I was able to rotate the intercooler pump so the outlet shot right between the subframe and fuel tank



I'm less happy with the dual pass plumbing which requires 2 tees and a bunch of joints. One day I'd like to re-do this with a custom 3/4 stainless or aluminum junction pipe to reduce the joints and clamps and clutter

Alex I am in the process of piping up the heat exchanger I have (2) PVC pipes coming from the front to the rear do you have clear photos of how it is piped into the engine?

Thank you in advance.
 

RichRich

Well-Known Member
Im coming in late into a discussion but one line should go to the overflow tank and the other to the oil cooler. It doesn't matter which side goes to which within the T as long as they got to the proper place....this is of course as long as the LSJ is the same as the LNF
 

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
This is the routing I used for my LSJ and zzp dual pass w/ reservoir:

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I have photos of the completed plumbing in this build thread, not sure what pg.
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
Went to my first autocross Sunday, had a blast! The track was cold and somewhat damp and I was struggling to get grip. So I chalked the sidewalls up and found I needed wayyyy less in the front. I ended up at 25psi rear and 12psi front. As the track heated up, and I learned the course, it got really fast and so fun to drive.

Wish I knew, I would've come out to watch.
Was that a BSCC event?
 
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