AleX1/9's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor - Chassis #18 - WA registered

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Good Evening,
Just took a quick walk around my car looking for places that I might have added tabs or threaded lugs if I could have before powder coating (some of these are just to get you thinking).
Hope this helps,
Bruce
Big help! Thanks BAR, will take all this into account before sending off to powder coaters.

Still working on the strip down, so far I've managed to sell off the donor:

-Doors, trunk, bumpers, taillights, seats, steering wheel, RR 1/4 glass and misc interior trim $600
-Radiator, misc brackets $70
-3 decent tires off 16" wheels $50
-OE muffler w/ tip $60

So far that's $780 on a $1700 donor! Seems like the hood, carpet, fenders, and other items might also sell.

She's getting close to the big squeeze, maybe a couple more good weekends:

 
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AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Made some progress the last couple of days. finished stripping the donor and got it ready to dispose of. Also placed the frame over the powertrain for giggles (and to make room while I get rid of the donor body)

 
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AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
With the motor out, I can see that the rear motor mount is also junk, and maybe the source of some of the vibration I was feeling.



I am happy with how low my slider rail mounts will be, after some cutting and welding

 
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AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Got rid of the donor and an entire longbed full of the more worthless parts today :)



on the scales



Also got the seat slider rails welded in ready for test fit, more on that later
 
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AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
How to gut stock AC compressor:

Remove 3 13mm bolts holding compressors on and remove. Remove torx screw holding on clutch assembly and wiggle free. Remove 2 C clips holding clutch magnet and pulley and remove. Undo 6 long 10mm bolts and have a rag ready this thing has a lot of oil in it.





Discard everything but the pulley and front housing. Reconnect them with the C clip, and reinstall

 
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AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Mocking up engine / trans. Made sawhorses and cleared more uneeded cobalt parts out.



Engine/trans/subframe all mounted in, seats, and starting on intercooler radiator



 
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AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
so I'm test fitting the seats and I crawl in to the goblin to sit for the first time, and I can't help but notice, there's nowhere to plant your foot without the floor sheet metal installed.



Is the sheet metal alone sturdy enough? I'm thinking about adding a support here.... any input from guys that have been crawling in and out?
 
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Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
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Cool seat.

There is a 1 inch wide by 1/4 inch thick strap with three holes in it that goes under the floor for support. This was included with your first stage kit.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Can you post more details about how you mounted the seat rails? I see where you posted the kind of seat but which slider mount did you go with?
 

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Can you post more details about how you mounted the seat rails? I see where you posted the kind of seat but which slider mount did you go with?
I went with universal sliders like you find on ebay. I think it was these ones

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NRG-Universal-Seat-Base-Sliders-SBR-001-Fits-Momo-Sparco-Seats-/281578828027?hash=item418f67f0fb:g:PL8AAOSwDNdV0yjM&vxp=mtr

You can pay 3x as much for the Sparco branded ones, which might get you a little better fit on the cross bar. After a little tweaking the cheap ones work well.

Then I got these steel seat brackets made for a cobalt. After welding them in and mocking up the seats, the stock position is much farther forward than I would like, by about 4.5". I wanted the seat bottom to be able to go all the way back against the firewall regardless of back rest angle, for the best possible range of adjust-ability. I'll have to add a cross bar where the rear rail bolts go:



This rendered my seat bracket idea useless! If I had a do-over, I would just weld 2 cross bars accross where the seat rail bolts are. Maybe you can learn from my mistake!
 
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TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Thanks for the pics of the Ac compressor, I just took mine apart but was unsure if I could go without the back housing and 3rd bolt. Everything seems okay with just 2?

Nuker-

How to gut stock AC compressor:

Remove 3 13mm bolts holding compressors on and remove. Remove torx screw holding on clutch assembly and wiggle free. Remove 2 C clips holding clutch magnet and pulley and remove. Undo 6 long 10mm bolts and have a rag ready this thing has a lot of oil in it.



Discard everything but the pulley and front housing. Reconnect them with the C clip, and reinstall

 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Thanks for the pics of the Ac compressor, I just took mine apart but was unsure if I could go without the back housing and 3rd bolt. Everything seems okay with just 2?

Nuker-
Why not just leave the compressor off and get a shorter belt? That's what I'm planning on doing is there a reason I shouldn't?
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
You can't route the belt right without the pilot there. The supercharger and belt tensioner won't allow it.

Nuker
 

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pics of the Ac compressor, I just took mine apart but was unsure if I could go without the back housing and 3rd bolt. Everything seems okay with just 2?

Nuker-
Those 2 bolts will hold it just fine.

Why not just leave the compressor off and get a shorter belt? That's what I'm planning on doing is there a reason I shouldn't?
Nuker's right here. The supercharged LSJ needs something there for the belt to wrap around. the 2.2/2.4 and LNF turbo can all be just reconfigured without the AC pump and a new belt.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
IMG_0886.JPG
IMG_0885.JPG
If you do go with the ZZPerformance supercharger (or piece together a kit) on the 2.2 their pulley set up will not work either. It pushes the alternator into the fuel tank. Here is the pulley set up I made up for a 2.2. Would have liked to get more wrap on the alternator but there is not a lot of room to play with. I don't think I am going to have a high load on the alternator either.
 

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Took the frame to the powder coater today!

Ended up mounting the intercooler heat exchanger here:



Put the option b tank here:



Also added a mount for a crankcase breather catch can, a tab for the belt side radiator hose, rethreaded the headlight bungs, fitted the lights and mirrors and more.
 
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AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Got the frame back from the powder coater today. I went with prismatic powders' "Illusion spanish fly"
















 
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Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Cool color, soon we will have a goblin with each of illusion colors.

Adam should have the first assembly video up soon, just in time for you build.
 
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