Andrew's Extended Track Goblin - 08 SS/TC

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Hey Everyone!
My name is Andrew, I'm 34 and live in San Francisco and its my turn to start a build log.
I will be building the Goblin as a dedicated track car. I operate a Track Day Event company in Northern California and am at the tracks some 25+ days a year.
My current track car is an 85 VW Golf with a supercharged VR6. While I love this car to death, I'm ready for rear wheel drive and am looking to greatly increase the reliability.
I've been looking a the Goblin for a long time now and had made the decision I wanted to use an LNF and was planning on buying a crate motor and transmission with LSD.
I really like the idea of having everything brand new on the car and having enough stock power where I won't feel like I need to modify it.
I just placed the kit order and won't have room to take it until I can get rid of the current car.
Since I was planning on buying a new motor and trans I have been battling if I should buy a donor or not and had convinced myself that I could pull it off with out a donor.
However, as I was browsing the internet looking for wiring harnesses I came across what I think is a unicorn of a car.
A 2008 LNF with the Factory LSD with 4,019 original miles on it.
The car was rolled just three moths after it was purchased in 2008. It ended up sitting in a race shop for 12 years until they went out of business where the guy I bought it form pick it up with several other cars, and amazing it was only 30 miles form my house.
I paid $5,000 for the car plus $200 to have him tow it to my house.
With this car I no longer have to buy a new motor or trans and I now plan on utilizing a lot of the parts I though I would be buying new.
To top it off, the interior is in great condition and it looking like I will be able to make at least 1/2 of the purchase price back by selling things off.

I am planning on making several changes and additions to the Goblin to suite my heavy duty needs.
1. Custom Brakes with Stand Alone ABS. Currently I'm planning on running an MK60 ABS system from and E46 M3 along with a race pedal box using the Cobalt's 4 Piston Brembo Calipers on the front. This route will require independent hard lines for each wheel and the ability to retain the front wheel sensors. The system will have a provision for bias control from the cockpit.
2. Race Dash with Data Logging. Although far from finalized, I am thinking the AIM MXS 1.2. The ability to have the dash display exactly what I need and be able to customize waring alarms is a must.
3. Accusump and Oil Cooler.
4. Adjustable front sway bar. I haven't been able to plan my way through this yet, but seems like it is possible
5. Additional Aero parts. I'll have to wait until I have the frame, but the current though is to add a wing to the front, a defuser at the rear along with completing the flat bottom.
6. Manual steering, or maybe adjustable electric assist.

If there is one thing I'm certain of, it that this plan will change as the build progresses. It will be fun to look back and see how close the final build come to this.

I am going to start stripping the donor tomorrow and start selling parts to all the patiently waiting people who want them. :)

I do plan on keeping this first post updated with my actual cost to date and approximate number of hours spent working on the build. This is something I would have like to see when I was doing my research.

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Brian74

Goblin Guru
Man, if you can figure out a standalone ABS, that would be awesome.

Brake wise, this car is super light and you will get superb braking with stock calipers and a good high-temperature track compound.

I’m super happy with the AIM Strada so far as far as setup. I looked everywhere, and it seemed like the only logical choice. You may have to lower your steering column slightly, depending how far back you want to mount it. I dropped mine 1” and the MXS fits right under the cowling.

I am also looking into fabricating a front spoiler, and possibly a rear wing later on (as the current rear wing offerings are suffering in quality).

There is an adjustable manual steering kit available if you can source a steering unit from a Saturn Vue. I got one from a jy for around $30. The Vue unit is a direct bolt in.

I’ll be following your build log and looking forward to seeing your progress.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Well I had a really productive day.
8 Hours of work with 1/2 of a helper and the Motor and interior is completely out.
Only ran into a couple of problems. I blew up a 21mm Deep Socket because it wasn't impact rated. And the motor didn't have any lifting eyes on it so I had to get a bit creative. But other than that, I didn't have to fight a single bolt, I guess that's what happens when a car only see the road for 3 months.
I just have to pull the body harness out of the car, strip the dash and drop the fuel tank. I should be able to wrap it all up tomorrow then figure out how to get rid of the shell.

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ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Man, if you can figure out a standalone ABS, that would be awesome.

Brake wise, this car is super light and you will get superb braking with stock calipers and a good high-temperature track compound.

I’m super happy with the AIM Strada so far as far as setup. I looked everywhere, and it seemed like the only logical choice. You may have to lower your steering column slightly, depending how far back you want to mount it. I dropped mine 1” and the MXS fits right under the cowling.

I am also looking into fabricating a front spoiler, and possibly a rear wing later on (as the current rear wing offerings are suffering in quality).

There is an adjustable manual steering kit available if you can source a steering unit from a Saturn Vue. I got one from a jy for around $30. The Vue unit is a direct bolt in.

I’ll be following your build log and looking forward to seeing your progress.
I am fairly confident I know the parts that I need to make the ABS work. Its not going to be cheep though. I will probably also start a unique thread on the brake system.

Good to know on the MXS!

I did hear about the view power steering unit. Is it the same electrical connect and mounting location, or is there some custom work involved?
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I am fairly confident I know the parts that I need to make the ABS work. Its not going to be cheep though. I will probably also start a unique thread on the brake system.

Good to know on the MXS!

I did hear about the view power steering unit. Is it the same electrical connect and mounting location, or is there some custom work involved?
Mounting is same. Other than adding the controller wires in, all you’ll have to do after that is add in a termination resistor for the CAN bus, since you will no longer be using the Cobalt unit. 120 ohm I think. That’s third on my own list of stuff to tackle and I haven’t explored it yet.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
Also I’m having an issue with the MXS not wanting to provide data with a scan tool hooked up. I ended up putting diodes on the CAN bus; which seemed to fix it.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Also I’m having an issue with the MXS not wanting to provide data with a scan tool hooked up. I ended up putting diodes on the CAN bus; which seemed to fix it.
I have run into that problem before with the Aim Solo data loggers. I would be interested in exactly what you did to resolve.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I have run into that problem before with the Aim Solo data loggers. I would be interested in exactly what you did to resolve.
I called their tech dept about it and they said to unplug the AIM when using a scanner. Bullshit.

I simply added two diodes to the CAN bus prior to the AIM. They said my solution sounded logical.

It works.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Another productive day.
I got the donor completely stripped. There isn't anything left in it, short of the sunroof.
I started cleaning up parts I'm selling. Next I'll organize and put everything into bins to be stored until the Goblin Frame Shows up in 4 months.

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ATMironov

Well-Known Member
With the frame being several months out and the donor stripped in a weekend I have ample time to research the modifications I want to make.
I do plan on thinning the harness some time in February and want to try and get as many of my electrical mods incorporated at that time.
The biggest electrical modifications I'll be making is replacing the OEM cluster with an AIM MXG 1.2 Data Logging Race Dash.
The MXG reads the CAN BUS from the Cobalt to display all the same gauges as the OEM dash. So with just two wires spliced into the Cobalt's CAN+ and CAN- I'll get 90% of the OEM cluster functions.
Although reported through the CAN system, the AIM Dash does not have pre-defined values for various indicators light (like blinkers and hi beams). So unless I can find someone who know how to identify these values I'll have to wire those in separately. I've been talking with Brain74 who has pretty much the identical set up and he has passed on his wiring note saving me much time digging through the wiring diagrams.

In addition to the factory gauges, I plan on adding the following sensors which will all wire into the AIM Dash to report values.
Oil Pressure, Exhaust Gas Temperature, Tire Pressure Monitoring, Fuel Level (not using OEM sender) and am considering adding pressure sensors to the brake system.

More on the dash here:
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Ross

Goblin Guru
CAN-bus loggers are available to plug into the OBDII port, and allow the data to be analyzed on your laptop.
I have logged the low speed (33.3khz) GMLAN, but haven't played with the high speed (500khz) GMLAN yet.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
CAN-bus loggers are available to plug into the OBDII port, and allow the data to be analyzed on your laptop.
I have logged the low speed (33.3khz) GMLAN, but haven't played with the high speed (500khz) GMLAN yet.
So I reached out to AIM tech support for a little more info. Their response was
“It would require quite a bit of work to sniff it out. You would need to successfully do that, then create a custom CAN protocol with your ID's, gains, offsets, etc. Send it to me and we would add it to the existing protocol for you. Don't get me wrong we would love to have this information for you and for future customers, but it would require a bit of work and patience.”

Frankly I don’t understand most of that. Seems like it will be simplest just to splice in 6 or 7 wires.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I don't see a problem with this. :p
Sorry, this didn't come across correctly. I guess my point was, if you will be going through the trouble of getting this CANBUS information why not try putting it on the forum. We have some really sharp people who may be able to get this figured out - without going through a 3rd party business.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
So I haven't been able to stop thinking about this. I think I like the challenge of working out a new problem in a field I don't know much about.
I've been researching CAN Sniffers, hardware and strategies for identifying the CAN Commands I need, and was coming up with plan to make it happen..... Then I just realized one major problem. The AIM dash doesn't have enough CAN inputs. :(
The AIM Dash supports up to two CAN Busses. All the motor and sensor information is on the High Speed CAN which is where AIM pulls info like RMP and MAP etc, and the warning lights are on Low Speed side. The TPMS system I plan on using runs on its own CAN Bus, so there is not room for me to wire in the Low Speed CAN.
So now I'm back to hard wiring the warning lights into the AIM Dash.

On to the next rabbit hole...
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
So onto the wheels, and specifically the bolt pattern.
I think I am most likely going to use Enkei RPF1 17x9s all around and will need 5x114.3 hubs.
At a little over 16lbs and a couple hundred dollars each, I don't think I can do much better.
As best as I can tell I have three options to got to 5x114.3
1. Drill the 5x110 hubs to 5x114.3
2. Use Adaptors
3. Change hubs to a 5x114.3 pattern

----Update: Option 4. Custom wheels or Drill manufactured wheels to 5x110. Suggested by Rauq and referenced website for the RPF1s.
https://www.fm-wheels.com/enkei-rpf1/enkei-rpf1-silver-17x9-5x110-22 ---- End Update

For #1, I don't like the idea of drilling the hubs partially because it makes me uncomfortable using drilled hubs in a track application, but mostly because bearings tend to be more of a consumable item when used heavily on the track. So I don't want to have to keep drilling out hubs when they need replacement.
#2. I could order some custom hub centric and wheel centric adaptors. I haven't made up my mind if this is ok or not. There are very opinionated people on both sides of this argument. I still can't decide if a 25mm adaptor would put any more stress on the bearings compared to a wheel with 25mm more of an offset. I don't think there are safety concerns with well made adaptors, just ware and tare and added rotational mass.
#3 would be ideal. It does not appear that that someone has found a prefect 5x114.3 hub for the LNF. The closest I've come across is an 04 Grand AM that has a 5x115 hub.
Searching through the forms it doesn't look like any Goblin owners have tried the Grand Am Hub.

Here are the spec of both the hubs.
Cobalt LNFGrand Am
Spline Quantity3030
Bolt Circle Diameter4.330"4.530"
Bolt Circle Diameter110 mm115 mm
Flange Bolt Hole Quantity33
Wheel Pilot Diameter65 mm70 mm
Brake Pilot Diameter65.4 mm70.5 mm
Wheel Stud Quantity55
Hub Pilot Diameter89.1 MM91.4 MM
Flange ShapeModifiedTRIANGULAR
Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) Sensor IncludedYesYes
Flange Offset39 mm36.9 mm
Flange Diameter137 MM145 mm

The question also remains as to how well a 5x114.3 wheel will work on a 5x115 hub. Again, very opinionated people on both sides of the argument.

Are there any other reasonable ways to get a 5x114.3 bolt pattern?


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