Andrew's Extended Track Goblin - 08 SS/TC

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I finished up the wiring harness today.
I used Tesa tape instead of electrical tape and I used labels with clear heat shirk for some long lasting connector labels.

I didn't fully wrap the harness at this point. I wrapped the connector tails and the splits from the harness. After I Install all my accessories, I'll wrap all the wires at once.

I rather enjoyed the process. The videos make it pretty fool proof, so low stress, just some satisfying thinning and clean up..
Overall it took me about 25hours.

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ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Alright, lets talk about the plans for my brake set up.
This will be by far the largest departure from the original kit setup.

In short, I plan on using full manual brakes with a stand alone ABS. (Sounds so simple when you write it out in one sentence :p)

For the manual brakes, I spent some time talking with Ken @KLMOTORSPORTS and am following his lead utilizing a Tilton Pedal Assembly.
I'll be utilizing the DF Kit's rear Solstice calipers and the OEM Brembo Calipers and rotors on the front. I will also incorporate an active brake bias control with pressure sensors that will report back to my Aim Dash to report the actual brake bias value.
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I spoke with Tilton and provided all the pertinent brake system information so they could accurately size the front and rear master cylinders. The net result of that was a Front MC of 13/16th and a Rear MC of 7/10th.

With using the Tilton pedals, I have to figure out how to get them to connect to the OEM Throttle, Brake and Clutch sensors. Ken has shown me his set up for the Throttle sensor, but he isn't using the brake or clutch sensor. I'm ok with not using the clutch safety if I can either just tie the wire together or turn it off with HP tuners. For the bake sensor, I could just add a pressure switch to trigger the brake lights, but snice the Brake position is reported through the CAN and is a field that can be logged by the AIM dash, I'm going to keep the OEM sensor.

Now lets talk about ABS. As far as I know, no one has added an ABS to the Goblin. Utilizing the factory ABS is well outside of my skillset as it would require re-programming the ABS computer, so the other option is a stand alone ABS.
As far as I know, there are two choices for stand alone systems. One is a Bosch motorsports ABS that cots like $15,000, and there is no way I'm doing that. The other other option is a stand alone ABS system that comes from an E46 M3.
The MK60 Standalone ABS is a fairly common in the motorsports world. Its comprised of two pressure sensors, a yaw sensor, four wheel speed sensors, ABS pump w/computer and a wiring harness to connect them all. The total cost will be around $1,500. Or the cost of 6 flat spotted tires. ;)
The single biggest hurdle to this set up is the wheel speed sensors as the is no way I can see to utilize the MK60 sensors.
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Speaking with the folks over at 3DM Suspension, although no one has done it, they are confident that the factory wheel speed sensors from the Cobalt will work as the tone rings has the correct number of teeth. When I order the harness from them, they will install the correct connectors to match the Cobalt sensors.
Now I can already hear all of you screaming that the Goblin's uprights and steering arms require me to remove the electronics from the OEM hubs therefore destroying the front wheel speed sensors. Well it seem @Tinkles has resolved this issue by swapping the steering arms from left to right and adding spacers to to create room for the sensor while keeping the tie rod position the same.
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I do have some concerns about the leverage created by spacing the steering arm so far from the knuckles, but I figure I will run this setup until I bend something, then I can look at getting some custom steering's arms made. I'll run grade 8 hardware and a spacer with as think of a wall as I can manage. (Maybe make a spacer out of large piece of solid aluminum.)

And to top it all off, this set up means a whole lot of custom brake lines need to be made.
The ABS is a 4 channel system, so I need a dedicated brake line to each wheel. My current thought is to try and use the DF suppled hard lines from where they connect to the Ts to the wheels and just run new main lines to those branch points.
The hydraulic lines will consist of the following,
3x Revivor to master cylinders
2x Brake Master cylinders to ABS pump
4x ABS pump to each wheel
1x Clutch master cylinder to clutch slave cylinder

I know this was a long post, but any feedback is apricated, epically if you think I've made some catastrophic oversight.

Thanks!
 
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Nice. Some serious research and development going on there.
Flipping the DF Billet steering arm will also reverse the tapered shaft that the steering rack ball joint connects to. Guess putting the ball joint on top doesn't hurt anything, and the billet arm can be moved downward.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Nice. Some serious research and development going on there.
Flipping the DF Billet steering arm will also reverse the tapered shaft that the steering rack ball joint connects to. Guess putting the ball joint on top doesn't hurt anything, and the billet arm can be moved downward.
I won't be flipping the steering arms, rather placing the DS arm on the PS in the DS orientations, and the PS arm on the DS in the PS orientation which will keep the ball joint facing the same direction.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
My frame should be shipping in the next few weeks and I need to make a decision on seats and get them coming.
My current front runner is the RaceQuip Full Containment seat. (Large)

My question is will they fit in the Goblin

Using the the Corbeau FX1 seat as a baseline (because we know it works) The RaceQuip seat would be 1.5" wider at the shoulder balusters and 1.5" Narrower at the thighs. The RaceQuip is also about 7.5" longer in the overall length.

Probably the simplest way to answer this if someone with the FX1 seats (not the pro) could tell me how much space is between the two seats at the shoulder balusters.
Or, if someone is using different seats and can share their information I can compare it to my pick to see if it might work.

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TravMac

Well-Known Member
Hey Andrew,

You may be pretty pressed for space using that width, but I can't say anything is impossible. I'm currently fitting up my Kirkey seats and had to pull a few tricks to get them to fit. I ended up with the 18.5 inch seats in passenger and driver, but had to get slightly different style for one vs the other for fitment.

In what I see in the numbers, my shoulders are a bit wider and barely fit just above the side tube, but not outside the cage. Your dimension there (c) should be good. Length shouldn't be a concern either with the extended frame. Fitting the seat bottom with brackets might be an issue though. Take a look at my picture and the dimensions from Kirkey to get an idea the size/space you have available.

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k.rollin

Goblin Guru
I posted in your other thread earlier this morning, but for posterity's sake:

The narrow cabin and concerns about interference between the shoulder bolsters is a big part of why I went with aluminum seats. I had to bend the shoulder bolsters of both of my Kirkey 47 Series seats to make them narrower and eliminate contact in the middle. That's not really an option with a composite seat.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
And so it begins!
Frame arrived with no issues. I unboxed and check off all the parts and pieces.
Very well organized from DF.


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Even got in my first test drive. :)

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The only things I couldn't figure out where these two items. Anyone know what they are for?
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ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I had a few Hours today to start mocking things up. I focused on the front suspension so I could tackle the first modification, making room for the wheel speed sensors.

Started with replacing the inner tie rods an installed the DF outer tie rods on the steering rack. Then installed the rack, PS motor and shaft.
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Then moved into the front control arms, coil overs, upright and hubs.
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Then I started to figure out the spacer needed to swap the steering arms from left to right.
I used a caliper to determine the height of the tie rod hole in the standard position, then used a couple of bolts and nuts to mock up spacers to get the "flipped" steering arm's tie rod hole in the same position while keeping the top side level.
When all said and done, I need a 1 1/2" spacer for one of the bolts, and a 7/8 spacer for the 2nd bolt.
I'm going to order some 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" aluminum bar to fabricate the spacers.
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I had a few Hours today to start mocking things up. I focused on the front suspension so I could tackle the first modification, making room for the wheel speed sensors.

Started with replacing the inner tie rods an installed the DF outer tie rods on the steering rack. Then installed the rack, PS motor and shaft.
View attachment 24157View attachment 24158

Then moved into the front control arms, coil overs, upright and hubs.
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Then I started to figure out the spacer needed to swap the steering arms from left to right.
I used a caliper to determine the height of the tie rod hole in the standard position, then used a couple of bolts and nuts to mock up spacers to get the "flipped" steering arm's tie rod hole in the same position while keeping the top side level.
When all said and done, I need a 1 1/2" spacer for one of the bolts, and a 7/8 spacer for the 2nd bolt.
I'm going to order some 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" aluminum bar to fabricate the spacers.
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Is the reason for doing this is to invert the taper on the on the arms? Or is there another geometry factor that will be changed by moving the arm away from the upright?
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Is the reason for doing this is to invert the taper on the on the arms? Or is there another geometry factor that will be changed by moving the arm away from the upright?
The taper will remain the same, the ball joints will still mount from the bottom of the arm.
I need to move the steering arm away from the upright so I can keep the electronics of the wheel speed sensor for ABS.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I was able to spend a few hours on the car this weekend.
I got the first pass at the spacers for the DS steering arm completed. Its a proof of concept but needs some tweaks. I couldn't get the wide material flat with the tools I had, so I have small benchtop sander coming which should hopefully get me to square thing ups.
The spacers are also about 2mm too thick at the moment, but I should be able to take care of that with the new sander.
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I also spent some time drawing up the hydraulic system trying to figure out all the miscellaneous fitting I'll need. Turns out there will be 4 different fitting types and 5 different fitting sizes. I'm not a huge fan of having such a virality in the system, but not sure what else I can do.

----THIS DIAGAM HAS BEEN UPDATED HERE-----
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ATMironov

Well-Known Member
My small benchtop sander arrived today. I spent a couple of hours refining the spacers for the steering arms.
Being able to sand things flat and square makes a world of difference. I did in two hours what I spent most of the last weekend on.
Both arm spacers are now complete and the ball joint pickup points are dead on to the original locations.
For my reference (and others) attached are photos of the final dimension of the spacers. The spacers lengths could be reduced to not stick out past the uprights.
The fabrication set up.
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Now for the first problem of the build.
At full lock, the bottom of the uprights is contacting the jamb nut on the lower A arm heim joint.
I am not sure if there is more travel available in the steering rack or if the uprights are actually limiting it. The bellows look fairly maxed out.
Anyone experience this before?
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ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I spent a whole lot of time trying to figure out a way to make the Holley Hydramt work with the OEM fuel pump and fuel pump housing, but finally came to the conclusion that the Hydramat setup for the Goblin just wasn't going to work.
So I went with plan B which is a Phantom Apex 340 pump with baffled bladder and remote pickup

An adapter plate was needed to install the new pump.
Using 1/8" aluminum plate, which is the same thickness as the OEM pump housing top, I just cut a 6" round disk and followed the installation instructions for the pump. Overall this was a super easy install.

I still need to add a fuel level sender, but I'm going to wait until I can get a bit more of the car put together before I decide where to put it in the tank.
I will also need to add an inline fuel filter as the OEM filter was part of the in-tank housing.

Pump components
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Fabrication steps
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Check valves for the bladder
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Remote Pickup at the opposite end of the tank
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Installing the Pump
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While I was working on this the replacement bolts for my rear control arms came in so I was able to put the rest of the rear suspension together.
Basically the car is a roller now. I'll be taking it down to a friends shop in a few weeks to work on a few frame modification and mounting the seats.

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