Alright, lets talk about the plans for my brake set up.
This will be by far the largest departure from the original kit setup.
In short, I plan on using full manual brakes with a stand alone ABS. (Sounds so simple when you write it out in one sentence
)
For the manual brakes, I spent some time talking with Ken
@KLMOTORSPORTS and am following his lead utilizing a
Tilton Pedal Assembly.
I'll be utilizing the DF Kit's rear Solstice calipers and the OEM Brembo Calipers and rotors on the front. I will also incorporate an active brake bias control with pressure sensors that will report back to my Aim Dash to report the actual brake bias value.
I spoke with Tilton and provided all the pertinent
brake system information so they could accurately size the front and rear master cylinders. The net result of that was a Front MC of 13/16th and a Rear MC of 7/10th.
With using the Tilton pedals, I have to figure out how to get them to connect to the OEM Throttle, Brake and Clutch sensors. Ken has shown me his set up for the Throttle sensor, but he isn't using the brake or clutch sensor. I'm ok with not using the clutch safety if I can either just tie the wire together or turn it off with HP tuners. For the bake sensor, I could just add a pressure switch to trigger the brake lights, but snice the Brake position is reported through the CAN and is a field that can be logged by the AIM dash, I'm going to keep the OEM sensor.
Now lets talk about ABS. As far as I know, no one has added an ABS to the Goblin. Utilizing the factory ABS is well outside of my skillset as it would require re-programming the ABS computer, so the other option is a stand alone ABS.
As far as I know, there are two choices for stand alone systems. One is a Bosch motorsports ABS that cots like $15,000, and there is no way I'm doing that. The other other option is a stand alone ABS system that comes from an E46 M3.
The MK60 Standalone ABS is a fairly common in the motorsports world. Its comprised of two pressure sensors, a yaw sensor, four wheel speed sensors, ABS pump w/computer and a wiring harness to connect them all. The total cost will be around $1,500. Or the cost of 6 flat spotted tires.
The single biggest hurdle to this set up is the wheel speed sensors as the is no way I can see to utilize the MK60 sensors.
Speaking with the folks over at 3DM Suspension, although no one has done it, they are confident that the factory wheel speed sensors from the Cobalt will work as the tone rings has the correct number of teeth. When I order the harness from them, they will install the correct connectors to match the Cobalt sensors.
Now I can already hear all of you screaming that the Goblin's uprights and steering arms require me to remove the electronics from the OEM hubs therefore destroying the front wheel speed sensors. Well it seem
@Tinkles has
resolved this issue by swapping the steering arms from left to right and adding spacers to to create room for the sensor while keeping the tie rod position the same.
I do have some concerns about the leverage created by spacing the steering arm so far from the knuckles, but I figure I will run this setup until I bend something, then I can look at getting some custom steering's arms made. I'll run grade 8 hardware and a spacer with as think of a wall as I can manage. (Maybe make a spacer out of large piece of solid aluminum.)
And to top it all off, this set up means a whole lot of custom brake lines need to be made.
The ABS is a 4 channel system, so I need a dedicated brake line to each wheel. My current thought is to try and use the DF suppled hard lines from where they connect to the Ts to the wheels and just run new main lines to those branch points.
The hydraulic lines will consist of the following,
3x Revivor to master cylinders
2x Brake Master cylinders to ABS pump
4x ABS pump to each wheel
1x Clutch master cylinder to clutch slave cylinder
I know this was a long post, but any feedback is apricated, epically if you think I've made some catastrophic oversight.
Thanks!