Andrew's Extended Track Goblin - 08 SS/TC

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Well I haven't been able to spent too much time on the car, but have received a few goodies and got one solid day playing around.
I received the AIM MXG Dash and various components
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And my 9 Lives Racing Rear Wang, Front Wang, and diffuser came in
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The larger air to water intercooler and heat exchanger showed up and I was able to get them installed.
I had to modify the DF brackets for the Intercooler and had to weld on some tabs to the frame for the heat Exchanger
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I have ordered a ton of pluming fittings to finish up the intake piping, intercooler plumbing, oil system, and fuel system.

I spent a bunch of time working on the mounting of the dash.
I moved the turn signal stock towards the rear about an half inch and and going to have to move the windshield forward about an inch.
I didn't get any photos of the cut hood while it was on the car, but trimming is required to get the dash where I want it.

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I think the brake plumbing is complete. I'll just need to do a little hose management.
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I know slow and steady wins the race, but I'm really getting the itch to drive this thing.
 
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ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Spent a few hours on the car today.
I fabricated a mount for the dash and got it installed. Metal fab is super new to me. I can build just about anything out of wood, but am trying to figure this out....
Fabricating on the car is completely different compared to wood working.. There are no reference points to measure from.. I'm building more by look than actual measurement.
I had to cut the hood and move the windshield forward about an inch to make it all work.
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The intercooler fitting arrived, so I was able to put that together. I'm definitely giving up on the engine cover at this point...
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Then I spent some time working on a switch panel. It just about time to start wiring!
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jamesm

Goblin Guru
Looking good! I'm considering upgrading to an AIM datalogger too. I'll definitely be curious to know your opinion of it.

One thing to keep in mind with your switch panel is reach. You may not be able to reach the far switches once you're strapped into the seats.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
So I'm starting to get into the details of the electrical.
I've decide that I want to retain cruse control so will need the BCM to think the factory Brake and Clutch Pedal Position Sensors are installed.
Physically mounting the factory sensor to the Tilton Pedal assembly, while I'm sure is possible, I just don't see a good way of doing it
So, I'll be adding a Normally Open Pressure sensor in the brake and clutch hydraulic lines that will close when the pedals are pressed.
After some aggravating testing I've figure out what the BCM is looking for to determine if the pedals are pressed or not.
On the BPPS signal wire (BCM X2 18 Yellow) if it has between .75 and 1.4v, the brake pedal is not depressed, anything over 1.4v and the pedal is pressed. Any voltage below .75 or above 5 throws a fault and will turn the brake lights on regardless of the position of the sensor.
On the CPPS signal wire (ECM X2 37 Green) if it has between .75 and 1.4v the clutch pedal is depressed. Anything below .75 and above 1.4v and the pedal is not pressed. I didn't find any faults in the system with 0v or 5+v.

So, for the brake lights and cruse control, I need to switch between 1v and 2v. I'm planning on using the 5v reference for the BPPS which means I need to step down the voltage. I measured the resistance on the BPPS at the positions that produce the required voltages and came up with 3.25K ohm for 1v and 1.5-2.5K ohm to be around 2-3v.
I also need an output for the ABS which requires a ground when the pedal is not pressed and an open circuit when the pedal is pressed
I'll use a standard 5 pin relay for the ABS and a Double Pole Double Throw relay for the Brake Lights.

I'm sure the wiring diagram below will make some people go nutty, but I can read it....


Brake Pedal Switch (9-28-21 - Wiring has been Updated, this layout does not work. Updated wiring info will be posted below)
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Clutch Pedal Switch (9-28-21 - Wiring has been Updated, this layout does not work. Updated wiring info will be posted below)
Clutch Pedal Wiring.jpg
 
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ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I was able to put in a solid 9 hours on the car today.
I got the button panel fabricated and mounted as well as an auxiliary electrical device panel.
Now I can actually start getting things wired in.
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ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Wow, looks great! Like that it can be adjusted. Can you reach all of the switches from the driver's seat when strapped in? That would be my only concern. :D
The switches on the left are easily reached. The ones on the far right are a bit of a stretch, but I can get them with my shoulders all the way back in the seat.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I spent a few hours today working on plumbing the Accusump/Oil Cooler and the intercooler Heat Exchanger.

I added a small expansion tank as a high point in the heat exchanger system to help burp the air in the system.
I mounted the HX pump above the fuel tank behind the intake piping.

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And my plumbing diagrams.
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I spent a few hours today working on plumbing the Accusump/Oil Cooler and the intercooler Heat Exchanger.

I added a small expansion tank as a high point in the heat exchanger system to help burp the air in the system.
I mounted the HX pump above the fuel tank behind the intake piping.

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And my plumbing diagrams.
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Heat exchanger core cubic inch volume greater than the intercooler cubic inch core volume - EXCELLENT! The installation looks great, very clean. :D:cool:
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Heat exchanger core cubic inch volume greater than the intercooler cubic inch core volume - EXCELLENT! The installation looks great, very clean. :D:cool:
I've been thinking about your comment since yesterday, and was about to write a post explaining the volume was smaller, then I looked at my photos again and remembered the expansion thank. :)
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I put in a solid 20 hours on the car this weekend. 12 on Saturday and 8 today.
Not a whole lot to show in photos, but I started knocking out tons of electrical.

Over the past couple of months, I've been building my own electrical diagrams for the auxiliary systems I'm putting into the car. This just lets me go to work, and not have to do a whole bunch of figuring out as I went. I showed these diagram to my buddy who is an electrical engineer and he just shook his head in disappointment. But hey, if I can read them, that's all that matters.

Here are my "diagram" for the Dash and Buttons
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The primary focus this weekend was getting all the new auxiliary systems powered up which required re-pinning several BCM and fuse box connectors. The thought was to re-use abandoned circuits instead of trying to tie into the ones that are left. When I thinned the harness originally, I cut all the discarded wires flush with the connectors, so the only option was to crimp pins to new wires. It appears that everything has powered up as intended.

Something I didn’t think about until I started the work, was how many electrical connectors I had to add in because the harness needs to be able to be completely removed from the car. On other builds I’ve done in the past you could just splice wires in because it never needed to get pulled out of the car

After getting the power systems squared away, I focused on the Brake Pedal and Clutch Pedal Position wiring. Since I am not re-using the OEM BPPS and CPPS, I had to come up with a way to bypass them. After some testing and playing with voltage dividers, here is what I came up with for the wiring. It all seems to work.
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.

I still need to connect all the exterior lights (except for 1 tail light).
And I still need to wire in all the indicator lights to the dahs.

When the wiring is all done, I'll zip tie it all neatly, then pull the harness to finish wrapping it

Overall, I'm happy with my progress.

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Zoom Zoom

Goblin Guru
I put in a solid 20 hours on the car this weekend. 12 on Saturday and 8 today.
Not a whole lot to show in photos, but I started knocking out tons of electrical.

Over the past couple of months, I've been building my own electrical diagrams for the auxiliary systems I'm putting into the car. This just lets me go to work, and not have to do a whole bunch of figuring out as I went. I showed these diagram to my buddy who is an electrical engineer and he just shook his head in disappointment. But hey, if I can read them, that's all that matters.

Here are my "diagram" for the Dash and Buttons
View attachment 27756
View attachment 27757


The primary focus this weekend was getting all the new auxiliary systems powered up which required re-pinning several BCM and fuse box connectors. The thought was to re-use abandoned circuits instead of trying to tie into the ones that are left. When I thinned the harness originally, I cut all the discarded wires flush with the connectors, so the only option was to crimp pins to new wires. It appears that everything has powered up as intended.

Something I didn’t think about until I started the work, was how many electrical connectors I had to add in because the harness needs to be able to be completely removed from the car. On other builds I’ve done in the past you could just splice wires in because it never needed to get pulled out of the car

After getting the power systems squared away, I focused on the Brake Pedal and Clutch Pedal Position wiring. Since I am not re-using the OEM BPPS and CPPS, I had to come up with a way to bypass them. After some testing and playing with voltage dividers, here is what I came up with for the wiring. It all seems to work.
View attachment 27754
View attachment 27755.

I still need to connect all the exterior lights (except for 1 tail light).
And I still need to wire in all the indicator lights to the dahs.

When the wiring is all done, I'll zip tie it all neatly, then pull the harness to finish wrapping it

Overall, I'm happy with my progress.

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Wow I really like it a lot, YOU ARE THE WIRE KING
ONLY A FEW OTHER GOBLIN OWNERS HAVE THIS KNOWLEDGE , A lot of us wish we had the knowledge !
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Wow I really like it a lot, YOU ARE THE WIRE KING
ONLY A FEW OTHER GOBLIN OWNERS HAVE THIS KNOWLEDGE , A lot of us wish we had the knowledge !
Thanks!
To be perfectly honest, when I started this project I was terrified of the wiring. Originally I was going to have DF thin the harness and be comply hands off.
But after some contemplation, I decided I wanted to be self sufficient and really know what was going on with the wiring.
For me, drawing out my home brew diagrams takes all the stress out of wiring. I also found that bench testing even the simplest things helped me to understand how each piece worked.
I've also had a really good resource with @Brian74 who has helped me troubleshoot and brain storm many items.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Another weekend soldering and crimping
I wrapped up most of the warning light notifications to the dash.
I got the head light mounts fabricated, installed then wired. Not a huge fan of the lights, but need DOT approval for CA registration.
Mounted and wired the mirrors.
Again, putting electrical connectors on everything so I can pull the harness.

All the exterior lights are done except for the license plate light.

I'm also still waiting on the ABS wiring harness. Once I get it it should be plug an play. (Fingers crossed)

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Looks good, lots of work to get all of that accomplished. Will CA require a windshield? Wipers? Bumpers? Emissions equipment (evap cannister, catalytic converter,, etc)? You may want to have a Montana registration as a plan B if CA doesn't allow a Goblin to be street legal. ;)
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Looks good, lots of work to get all of that accomplished. Will CA require a windshield? Wipers? Bumpers? Emissions equipment (evap cannister, catalytic converter,, etc)? You may want to have a Montana registration as a plan B if CA doesn't allow a Goblin to be street legal. ;)
Surprisingly there are not a lot of requirement for a kit car registration in CA. CA has a provision for kit cars that only require the basics, lights, seat belts and such.
the catch is you have to build it yourself and it can’t be for resale.
So, no safety windshield, wipers, bumpers or emissions. Jim and Jeff Loesche have successfully register their Goblin.
i’m sure I will have my hoops to jump through when I start the registration process. I think it’ll take upwards of six months to get done
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Another weekend soldering and crimping
I wrapped up most of the warning light notifications to the dash.
I got the head light mounts fabricated, installed then wired. Not a huge fan of the lights, but need DOT approval for CA registration.
Mounted and wired the mirrors.
Again, putting electrical connectors on everything so I can pull the harness.

All the exterior lights are done except for the license plate light.

I'm also still waiting on the ABS wiring harness. Once I get it it should be plug an play. (Fingers crossed)

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Wait!!!!!
You got pressure sensors in your brake lines?????
 
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