Anks329 - Extended City - '07 LS - #190 REGISTERED

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
There is a quick way to check your grounds. You need a multi-meter. First hook both leads to you battery (plus & minus) & check the voltage. Should be around 12.8 volts of so. Now remove the negative lead only and attach it to wherever your grounds attach to the frame. You should see the same 12.8 volts or maybe a little less. If it's 12.4 volts or lower you have a ground problem. Whatever you battery voltage is, a loss of .3 or .4 volts is a problem. If your car does run you should do these checks first without the car running then start the car and check them all again. Good luck.
 

SACTX

Well-Known Member
One thing I’m not seeing in that diagram is a connection to the ECM. The ECM transmits the rpm and speed data to the BCM. I'm sure it's different than mine but you can check. Mine is on ECM C1 Pin 16. Check continuity from any other low speed data line to that one if you're not getting any engine stuff but are getting communication with the Driver Info System.
 

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Anks329

Well-Known Member
Ok, tested grounds last night. 12.53v across the battery terminals, and 12.53v between the IPC ground, IPC signal ground, OBD ground, and I checked the ground by the battery and the ground on the pedal box just to check. 12.53v across all of them. I've got continuity between the the grounds mentioned here and the ground lugs as well on the frame.

Tonight, I'll find a way to ground the screw hole on the back of the BCM. And check the continuity from the ECM. Although, I should have continuity here as I'm able to see pull the relevant info through the OBD reader that I have.
 

SACTX

Well-Known Member
I forgot about being able to see it on the scanners. That means you're good to the ECM. Grounds are good. You've got green wire continuity from BCM to Cluster. The cluster is getting power.

I don't know what else to check....
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Sigh, I’ve grounded the back BCM, I’ve tested grounds, continuity of data wire, and the power wire. All seems to check out, but the gauges are still not displaying rpm, speed or fuel info.
Can I swap out the gauge panel from eBay anything specific to look out for? I like the look of an SS better than the base, are they compatible?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I have run a base and SS instrument panel, they both worked the same. Intermittent. So it didn't fix my issue, but it only cost me $25 at a auto recycle yard. I thought I would have to re-calibrate the speedometer from 160 mph to 120 mph, but no, they both correctly indicated the speed.
 

Jcas

Well-Known Member
Really need to re-check your grounds. Be absolutely sure no paint (or powder coat) is under your grounds. Scrape it off. The ground itself will cover the missing paint. Some things can operate with a marginal ground and others will not. A good ground is critical.
Yes I to had a short gremlin and it was powder coating on ground lug. Also my cluster is a bit touchy with the plug in the back had to work it over so that I had a bit more room between cluster and the top tube behind it because it caused funny thing with gauges and some times only read out would work and all guages would drop to 0. Also check that your plug is making connection to the cluster as I had a problem with that on a clutch switch. All tests found nothing but was not making contact to switch itself
 

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
I'm sure I sound like someone overstating the "grounding" problem (lack of a good ground). And your use of Gremlins is a good way to put it. A poor ground can cause all types of issues, the worst being the intermittent ones. A poor ground can act as a resistor in some circuits and as a capacitor in others, or both. That can cause all kinds of problems. At your grounding points scrape off ALL that paint/powder-coat to bare metal & also clean the lugs you attach to the grounds.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
I took a break from trying to figure out the instrument panel and went for a drive. It’s going to get more difficult soon as the rainy cold season is getting started, but enjoy the weather while I still can! It’s still a little twitchy at ~60 mph, so I need to work on my alignment a little more. It also definitely needs a tune, I need to place the order for the wideband and HP Tuners in a couple of weeks.

But, it’s so much fun to drive and answer questions at the gas station :)

17618
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
I'm gonna call it "completed" at this point. It's a blast to drive and I can't wait for the next drive :)


17928

17929



Long list of things I still want to do:
None of these items really stop my from having fun on weekends, so took a pause on the list while I was enjoying the good weather. Now that it's getting chilly out, I'll knock out these items out over the winter so that in the spring I've got a turbo tuned goblin.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Love the frame color. Glad you're "done" as much as we can call ourselves done.
Thanks! I love the pop of the color, and when I get the hood and side panel wrapped/install it will add even more to it.

Last night, I was doing some car shuffling around and the headlights are leaving much to be desired. Any consensus around what's a brighter replacement to use? I was thinking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Driving-Mounting-Bracket-Warranty/dp/B00G620ZVU/ref=sr_1_22?dchild=1&keywords=square+utv+headlight&qid=1604345241&sr=8-22&th=1

Updated list:

 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Last night, I was doing some car shuffling around and the headlights are leaving much to be desired. Any consensus around what's a brighter replacement to use? I was thinking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Driving-Mounting-Bracket-Warranty/dp/B00G620ZVU/ref=sr_1_22?dchild=1&keywords=square+utv+headlight&qid=1604345241&sr=8-22&th=1
I ran these as fog lights on my old Colorado a few years back. Tons of light output but basically no pattern and not a lot of distance on the throw. I remember describing them as great at lighting up the sides of the road, even though they were (similarly) advertised as a spot pattern. I wired them on a three way switch so I could turn them on or off manually, or turn them on with the high beam switch. I'll probably do something similar with the Goblin.

I would hesitate to try to run them as headlights, though.
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
I don't think anyone who's bought those dominator headlights has said positive things about them. Wish they had more options on the order form, caused me to source my own and had to print some brackets.
 

Zoom Zoom

Goblin Guru
Thanks! I love the pop of the color, and when I get the hood and side panel wrapped/install it will add even more to it.

Last night, I was doing some car shuffling around and the headlights are leaving much to be desired. Any consensus around what's a brighter replacement to use? I was thinking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Driving-Mounting-Bracket-Warranty/dp/B00G620ZVU/ref=sr_1_22?dchild=1&keywords=square+utv+headlight&qid=1604345241&sr=8-22&th=1

Updated list:

Just change the bulbs to LED what a difference they don’t run hot anymore
These are so much brighter
 

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Anks329

Well-Known Member
Professional alignment completed today and there's a marked difference in how the car handles. Unfortunately the printer was out of ink, so I don't have the spec, but should be able to pick that up next week.

What's worse, my motor mount bolts have worked themselves loose and I've lost a spacer. Can anyone let me know the size of the bolt that I should use to fix this and any idea on where I can get more spacers?
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
You can take the original mounts and use a band saw to cut a spacer. Mine were missing, so that’s what I did. I can’t remember the size, though. I’d have to measure.
 
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