Anks329 - Extended City - '07 LS - #190 REGISTERED

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Made some progress today. Stripped out the insides nicely, almost got all the wiring harness freed in there. Best of all, I got the axle buts off! Putting the tires back did the trick along with a long breaker bar. Unfortunately, I’ve got on stubborn subframe bolt that I might need to cut off. Any thoughts on where to source a replacement bolt?
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Good to know, thanks! Might need to eBay a subframe as well. Sometimes you need a break before you cut something that didn’t intend to :)
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Engine is out! Made good progress today finally getting the subframe and engine out.
12001


In the process of getting the subframe out, I had to use the angle grinder to get a bolt off, and I scored the subframe a little. Is this ok, or should I look into replacing the subframe?

12002
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
It is a beefy chunk of metal made for a car twice the weight of a Goblin. Just my 2 cents, but it looks like you scratched it a little. Paint it.
Thanks, was planning on using a Rust Oleum underbody spray on the subframe and the control arms.
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
Clean the bolt head area to see how deep that score is that goes across the hole.
If it's over half the thickness of the steel, you might consider options.

Pick-n-Pull or its equivalent is about $30-$40. If you have a welder, weld a bead along it and grind it down to dimensions.
The other scrapes, hit it with a flapper disc and paint.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Clean the bolt head area to see how deep that score is that goes across the hole.
If it's over half the thickness of the steel, you might consider options.

Pick-n-Pull or its equivalent is about $30-$40. If you have a welder, weld a bead along it and grind it down to dimensions.
The other scrapes, hit it with a flapper disc and paint.
Cleaning it up, it's just under half the thickness. Might err on the side of caution and replace it anyway.
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
Cleaning it up, it's just under half the thickness. Might err on the side of caution and replace it anyway.
it is Right Rear correct?

I would run a bead on it smooth it out and send it. I do not even think it would be a problem the way it is since it has a tube running inside it to keep it from crushing and the bolt has a flange washer already made in to it.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
it is Right Rear correct?

I would run a bead on it smooth it out and send it. I do not even think it would be a problem the way it is since it has a tube running inside it to keep it from crushing and the bolt has a flange washer already made in to it.
Yup, rear right side. The other three bolts were "easy" to get out. This one just refused to budge. And even after cutting the head off, we had to pry it off the rest of the body to get it free.

So, looks like my options are to:
  1. clean and paint it up
  2. weld a bead on it, sand it even and paint it
  3. replace it from either a pick-n-pull (do I really want to try to remove another one of these??) or buy it from a yard and have it shipped to me.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Option 2 if you have access to a welder or someone else can do it for you. Won't take much, be careful not to burn through the frame. There does not seem to be a reason to replace the subframe if it is not bent or rusted through.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
If you're looking to fill it in for cosmetic reasons, then that should work. If you're hoping it will make it stronger, I think it will add zero strength.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Donor is 95% stripped and out of the garage! Need to finish up with the dash and have someone pick up the shell.
12330

can’t wait for the frame to show up in a few weeks :D
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Looking good Anks329!
You might want to save some of the trunk carpeting / underlay. Makes really nice mat to protect things when working on surfaces.
If that is still the rubber hose from the brake booster, you will want to keep that.
 
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