Anks329 - Extended City - '07 LS - #190 REGISTERED

Anks329

Well-Known Member
You should have received a box with all the stage 2 hardware would have had calipers and front suspension all in the same box rotor where in the bottom of this box for me
I’ve got the box with the calipers and the front suspension, but no rotors in them. Adam or Lonny, am I just being blind or am I missing something here?
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
I think yours is shipping with five others next week.

I believe it was yours that we were crating up and Adam told me you were not sure about picking up from a terminal.
Adam mentioned I could go the crate route to save time but I told him not to bother since I don't have an easy way to pick it up from a terminal right now.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
It's been a busy few days at home with a new job. But I managed to get the floor pan installed and got the steering rack in place. I'm waiting on a tool to remove the inner tie rods and replace them with new ones that I purchased and then will add the DF supplied outer tie rods.

As I'm working on the steering shaft, I'm having some trouble collapsing it to get it to fit between the steering rack and power steering unit. I've tried a heat gun and WD-40 on it. Gonna keep trying that, but I've found a replacement unit on Ebay that I might need to pick up sooner rather than later to continue building.

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Zoom Zoom

Goblin Guru
Try pulling it apart and then grind off that little tip and then put back together after you cleaned and new grease, Mine came apart when I dropped motor, Tie to back of lawn mower and something solid and pull apart, easy after that.

see how far it will collapse
GRIND OFF LITTLE TIP WITH A DREMEL TOOL
 

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Yustas

Active Member
It took about 2 hours for me to pull it apart. It is held by coked old grease inside. Heat and little force will help.
Start with drilling out pinched point on the edge. Then heat it up to good temperature and try to squeeze it. You can use hammer over wood, but do not stress joints! I used wise hold thinner part and used some force on thicker one to press it in. Once you able to move it a little - all the rest it just time and patience.
 

Mayor West

Goblin Guru
I may do that because I had a ***** of a time snaking mine out of the donor car, I don't wanna screw around with it... 33$ is cheap for the lack of frustration.
 

JeffsGoblin

Goblin Guru
I may do that because I had a ***** of a time snaking mine out of the donor car, I don't wanna screw around with it... 33$ is cheap for the lack of frustration.
I spent a couple of days on that thing over the winter. Mine was seized up and after some heat and using a winch to pull the two pieces apart, it still wouldn't collapse all the way. When I pulled them apart, it made a popping noise. I finally kept digging at the bottom of the female part to remove all the rust down there and once it was completely clean, it would collapse all the way and hit bottom. The popping sound was gone. If you are experiencing similar issues, you are very close to having a working part. Hope this helps!
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
I been itching to work on the car, unfortunately after an hour with that steering shaft, eBay got some money. Then I went to change my inner tie rods, and I didn’t have the right size tool... so, I skipped ahead and worked on the front suspension. At least I can show progress!

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Anks329

Well-Known Member
Inner tie rods stay on the steering rack its only the tie rod ends that get swapped.
Yup, I know I don’t have to change them, but the donor inner rods were pretty worn down. I ended up getting a whole set of new Cobalt front suspension parts that I’m using.
 

Jcas

Well-Known Member
Inner tie rods stay on the steering rack its only the tie rod ends that get swapped.
Anks329 and I both bought a kit that came with all the parts to replace wear items in the front of a cobalt and both inner and out tie rods came in the kit. I replace mine with only 79,000 miles now like him no questions set alignment and drive like the wind
 

JeffsGoblin

Goblin Guru
Yup, I know I don’t have to change them, but the donor inner rods were pretty worn down. I ended up getting a whole set of new Cobalt front suspension parts that I’m using.
Just a reminder... the tie rod ends that come from DFG are for the front and the ones off the donor go on the rear of the Goblin.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
Seats are here! The red pops against the teal frame nicely, the red calipers and red valve cover will really bring it together. I’m also thinking of adding red lug nuts for a little more flair :)

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and, yes, I’ve got the DF supplied tie rod end boxes at the front and the replacement donor boxes in the back so I don’t forget.
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
It’s been almost a month since I last made progress, but today I knocked out a bunch of things and got the wiring harness, bcm, radiator and fuel tank all in place.

I’ve got some clean up on the engine to do, so aiming for engine installation next weekend! Anyone know what the length is for the M10 bolts that I need to use for the engine? I know it’s the bolts from the seats, but those are in my big box of bolts... thanks!

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