KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
Ok so just tested the voltage on the fuse and it’s 0 when it’s in the run position. Is this a wiring issue then?
Anti-Theft
- Thread starter KingChuck24
- Start date
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
Ok kept testing more and getting no voltage for c4:
D3
F4-6 and F9
They all have continuity to positive as well so not really sure what the issue is.
D3
F4-6 and F9
They all have continuity to positive as well so not really sure what the issue is.
Goblinfanclub1234
Well-Known Member
can you double check that the 7mm bolts that hold the BCM connectors are tight and the plugs are fully seated? doubt this is the issue but I would check on it.
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
Just checked and they are seated.
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
Could this be a fried bcm or something?
Goblinfanclub1234
Well-Known Member
I would think that the fuses on the BCM would pop during a power surge before you fried the circuits, but I am also not sure. I think a fried BCM is unlikely though. can you check to see if any of the bare wires for the lights and turn signals are touching something metal?
Have you tried disconnecting the power steering unit and trying again?
Goblinfanclub1234
Well-Known Member
it is quite a hassle to get inside of the BCM you will have to drill out some parts to open it, it would be obviously burnt inside if it was damaged. I would be careful...brand new BCMs are nearly impossible to find online now. And a new BCM requires programming to work with a Tech2 programmer (someone correct me if I am wrong on this).
Perhaps a bad relay on the BCM either the front or the back of the BCM.
Perhaps a bad relay on the BCM either the front or the back of the BCM.
Ross
Goblin Guru
We are so close to finding the issue.
According to this map, the electricity flows from the Run/Crank relay to the IP IGN fuse. Your goblin isn't doing this.
The issue is one of these:
1. the Run/Crank relay is defective.
2. the Run/Crank relay is energizing the coil and the rear fuse box is defective, and isn't passing the 12V+ from the Run/Crank relay to the IP IGN fuse.
3. the Run/Crank relay isn't energizing the coil because it isn't getting power to the coil. (What could cause this coil to not get power?)
When the key is turned on, that relay should get power (both 12V+ and ground) to the coil on pins 85 and 86.
Test:
Does the Run/Crank relay click when the key is turned? If you put your finger on it, and someone turns the key, you should be able to feel it click.
According to this map, the electricity flows from the Run/Crank relay to the IP IGN fuse. Your goblin isn't doing this.
The issue is one of these:
1. the Run/Crank relay is defective.
2. the Run/Crank relay is energizing the coil and the rear fuse box is defective, and isn't passing the 12V+ from the Run/Crank relay to the IP IGN fuse.
3. the Run/Crank relay isn't energizing the coil because it isn't getting power to the coil. (What could cause this coil to not get power?)
When the key is turned on, that relay should get power (both 12V+ and ground) to the coil on pins 85 and 86.
Test:
Does the Run/Crank relay click when the key is turned? If you put your finger on it, and someone turns the key, you should be able to feel it click.
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KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
Tested and the relay clicks and I can feel it doing so. So what should I do to the fuse block, is it bad connections or what and would it also explain all of the other pins not getting 12 volts?
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
Just looked over that circuit diagram and it looks like it could affect those other pins. I am assuming then its a loose connection either between the relay going into the fuse block or the fuse block into the fuse.
Ross
Goblin Guru
Great find!
So is the relay defective? The coil works, but maybe the switch is worn out. Have you tried swapping it with another relay? Maybe rear defog relay.
If it is the fuse box, we could try cleaning the contacts at the relay and the fuse. Otherwise it is internal, and would have to take the fuse box apart.
So is the relay defective? The coil works, but maybe the switch is worn out. Have you tried swapping it with another relay? Maybe rear defog relay.
If it is the fuse box, we could try cleaning the contacts at the relay and the fuse. Otherwise it is internal, and would have to take the fuse box apart.
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KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
Tested the relay with a different one and still the same issue. Probably something wrong with the fuse block, how would I clean the connectors? Also how does the fuse block come apart, I will probably go look for a video on that as well.
Ross
Goblin Guru
I would try to clean the contacts with a fold of fine sandpaper. Try to get it in the relay and fuse pins.
If you take apart the fusebox, you can squeeze the contact closed a bit to get better contact on the relay and fuse pins.
The sides of the fusebox have overlapping spots that click the black plastic together. You have unclick them all.
If you take apart the fusebox, you can squeeze the contact closed a bit to get better contact on the relay and fuse pins.
The sides of the fusebox have overlapping spots that click the black plastic together. You have unclick them all.
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
I attempted to clean the pins inside of the fuse block but no luck, can't really get much sandpaper down there let alone any significant force. One thing I did notice was some discoloration in the 30 pin on the fuse block, seemed a little rusted which could be an issue, or it might just be copper I'm not entirely sure. I will try tomorrow to take apart the top of the block and see if I can work on those pins a little.
Ross
Goblin Guru
I went down a rabblit hole, and researched issue #3.
Your goblin actually has issue #2, so this doesn't apply to you, but I'm leaving this research here just in case someone else needs it.
The Run/Crank relay also requires the coil's ground to be working. There is no switching on the ground side of the relay.
Your goblin actually has issue #2, so this doesn't apply to you, but I'm leaving this research here just in case someone else needs it.
The Run/Crank relay coil gets power from BCM2 40A fuse in the fusebox, then the IGN SW 2A fuse in the BCM, and finally from ignition switch being in the run or start position.
The Run/Crank relay also requires the coil's ground to be working. There is no switching on the ground side of the relay.
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KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
Something I forgot to add (not sure if this matters or not) is the fact that the crank relay and the pwr/trn relay both heat up when the power is on but none of the other relays do. Again not sure if this means anything.
escapepilot
Goblin Guru
Noticeably heating up implies current is flowing through to somewhere - possibly a short or a wire connected wrong. You may need to verify that the wire from the relay goes where it is supposed to go and/or isn't shorted out somewhere along the way.
Ross
Goblin Guru
If it was a short, the fuse would pop, right?
I was thinking the coil inside the relay was on, and the heat is from that.
When you say heat up, is it warm, or hot?
The pwr/trn relay might deliberately be left on, but the crank relay should only turn on with the key in start position.
I was thinking the coil inside the relay was on, and the heat is from that.
When you say heat up, is it warm, or hot?
The pwr/trn relay might deliberately be left on, but the crank relay should only turn on with the key in start position.
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
It is more just warm. I think when it’s turning on and off a bunch when I try to start it, it starts to heat up. I will turn the key tonight to the on position to see if it heats up by itself.
KingChuck24
Well-Known Member
Getting working again right now and I am having a lot of trouble taking the fuse block apart, how do I separate the two halves? Photos are just for reference if anyone has any ideas for how to take it apart. Some of the corners do seem to pry up a little but is it adhered together?
