Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Yeah I found a key, no problem ... just was curious really if they were OEM. I don't think so.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Been just stripping off resellables as quick as I can, there's been a ton of interest in my parts, which kind of took me by surprise. I overextended myself a bit, selling off parts before I had them removed from the car. A good problem to have, methinks!

Question: I know I read about this somewhere on the forum, but I can't find it. I wanted to see/hear the motor run for a while before I stripped it down, so I taped up the busted intercooler end pretty well and started it up. It started fine, but died immediately. So, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started it again. It ran great, though in smelled like it was running really rich (does that sound right?) ... is this meaning I need a new MAF sensor? I kind of forget what I read...

Thank you again guys, you're all the best!
 

Christopher Sanchez

Well-Known Member
To me it sounds like the MAF is working properly since the engine dies while it is plugged in and runs while it’s unplugged. I am assuming that the engine is not seeing any boost since your intercooler/piping is smashed....I assume the car runs on some sort of closed loop fuel map when the MAF is unplugged which allows the engine to run. you’re still not getting boost but it’s dumping fuel which explains it being rich.. I hope this made sense..
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
The MAF sensor is the main way the Power Control Module calculates fuel amounts. This method doesn't handle vacuum leaks very well.

When the MAF isn't working, the PCM used the Mass Air Pressure sensor to do speed density calculations. This method doesn't care about vacuum leaks.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
All of that makes good sense. It's not a big deal either way, hearing it run smoothly was all I wanted. It was quite therapeutic after having my previous donor mishap.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I've bumped into a bit of a pickle with donor #2 and could use some pointers.

I've reached the point where I need to drop the subframe. I managed to get three of the four big subframe bolts out, but the last one will not budge. It's not that I can't crack it loose ... I did, but now what happens is, I turn it a few twists with my breaker bar and I hear a loud CRACK, and the bolt goes back up into the car a little bit. I can't make any progress on it because no matter how much I turn it, it goes back up into the car.

I do not have a sawzall and would prefer not to have to buy one for a single bolt.

That being said, I do have an angle grinder. The cutting blade won't reach in to the bolt, but I am thinking I could just grind the head off of the bolt and that would do the trick. I'm not concerned about being a bolt short later, since donor #1 had 4 good bolts.

Any thoughts before I do something I regret later?
 

JeffsGoblin

Goblin Guru
If this is on the subframe towards the back, I had the same problem. I used an angle grinder to go through the floor board. The nut was spinning in the nut cage and wouldn't come down. You can see the nut cage in the picture and I took the grinder to that as well and the bolt dropped out releasing the subframe. The location of my Flintstone hole was right below the glovebox. You can also see the anti-sway bar. Use eye protection, ear protection, a filter mask and gloves, so this project doesn't cost more because of unneeded medical bills.
9842
 
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Ark :D

Goblin Guru
****, I haven't even thought about going in through the top. Good call ... I'll let you know how it goes.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Thanks to JeffsGoblin's advice, I finally got the subframe off.

20190912_185804.jpg


It's damaged so I won't be reusing it, but I needed it off anyway obviously. I was a bit bummed to see the steering rack looks to be damaged/bent on the driver's side a bit, but that's ok, I still have the one off my original donor. I don't think the sway bar is damaged, though I haven't compared it to the one off my original donor just yet.

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Autumn coming means less time in the garage after work!! ARGHHH!!!!
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
Really? Sway bar is listed as optional on the detailed donor parts list.
Yes. it is optional. I would guess that probably 90% of builders do not have it on the goblin. If you put it on the rear of the car it will loosen up the back of the car from my understanding. My feeling is I would put one in the front of the goblin before I put one in the back. After I drove mine a time or two that was one of the items that the scrap man got.
 

DCMoney

Goblin Guru
Reading through other threads, most that run a rear sway bar recommend the non SS sway bar, it's a smaller diameter rod, 18mm vs 24mm.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I have no sway bar, but find that the Goblin has understeer. I was planning on a front sway bar, but after driving it a while, I think a rear sway bar would be more benificial. The Nitto drag tires seem to have the rear stuck down pretty well, but not the front. Less rear traction, more front traction.

Update: I am running 300lb/in front springs and 125lb/in rear springs, which will also affect my understeer issue. Your results may vary.
 
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Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Question: what is the connector/line circled in red? I believe it's a vacuum line, but I don't remember it from my first donor, which was a 2007 SS/SC 5-speed (donor #2 being the 08 SS/TC 5-speed). The other end appears to go to the clutch master cylinder. Also, best way to remove it without damage?

For perspective, this is a top-down photo taken from the driver's side of the engine bay, and the connector/line circled in red connects to the top of the transmission.

20190914_111520.jpg
 
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