Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Thanks, that'll come in handy. I'm really concerned about this no-crank, no-prime condition though. I'm hoping for a revelation tomorrow.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
For those with SS/TC donors that are interested, pins 42 and 55 in the body-to-ECM connector are the high speed data wires, with pin 42 being tan/black and pin 55 being tan.

I have confirmed continuity between the pins above and their respective pins on the OBDII port, so that's one concern put to rest.

20200616_004638.jpg
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
If you're planning to use your solid engine mounts as a ground point which is perfectly fine from an electrical standpoint, you will have to clean paint, powder coat, and/or corrosion from five different spots.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Did you run any grounds to the valve cover?
Did you try attaching a long heavy wire to the negative battery post and touch the other end to each ground lug with the key on to look for changes?
Does the throttle respond now that the security light went out?
Does your security light go out and stay out?
Do you have the correct plug installed on the clutch and is the clutch pedal pushed down?

Jump across the starter relay and fuel pump relay to see if they function. (take necessary safety precautions)
 

MisterDave

Well-Known Member
That 90 degree port on the backside of your valve cover with the short hose attached. You got that figured out? If not, here is what I did:
Jason... Did you just clamp that rubber hose to the 90 degree port or did you use the original hose? What rubber hose did you use?
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Did you run any grounds to the valve cover?
Did you try attaching a long heavy wire to the negative battery post and touch the other end to each ground lug with the key on to look for changes?
Does the throttle respond now that the security light went out?
Does your security light go out and stay out?
Do you have the correct plug installed on the clutch and is the clutch pedal pushed down?

Jump across the starter relay and fuel pump relay to see if they function. (take necessary safety precautions)
No grounds to the valve cover. Should I have?

No changes when running a separate large ground wire from the negative battery post to the various ground lugs. I've tested every ground for continuity, both while the harness was on my table and while it's in the car.

Throttle does NOT respond to gas pedal presses with key in on position.

Security light goes out and stays out.

Clutch connector has light green, tan, and grey wires, correct? Regardless, I've swapped them with no effect. The clutch pedal is definitely pushed in. It does not work with the car's original clutch sensor, either.

Jumping the fuel pump relay makes it run, I did this to prime the fuel system. I am not sure which relay is for the starter though. I see "CRNK" and "RUN/CRNK", is it one of these?
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
So I trickle-charged my battery to full today, and that is not the cause of the no-crank condition. Just putting that out there. Additionally, between yesterday and today, I verified with a continuity tester that the high-speed data pair tests through from OBDII to ECM connector. Also, that the low-speed data (green wires) all test through from their endpoints to OBDII.

I figured I would turn my attention away from the first start while I work through this, and get something else done instead.

20200616_180838.jpg


It took some real creativity with a floor jack, a furniture dolly, and some blocks of wood to get that puppy mounted up by myself. I got it done though. (I certainly hope I don't have to remove it to install the toe links, man would that stink)

But of course, nothing I do with this project is without some heartache. For one, getting the hard mounts to line up properly was really tough. I had to lift here, contort there, etc to get all the bolts started, then I tightened them down. I didn't torque them down yet, I've had enough for today. Also, I managed to damage the driver-side heater hose very close to where it comes out of the frame. Coolant everywhere. I quick opened the release under the rad and saved what I could, but some was lost. No big deal. I was fortunate; the damage to the hose was far enough away from the frame that I was able to cut it off, jam the coupler in a little further, and tighten the hose clamps back up. I think if I had to pull more hoses, I would abandon ship. If I could do it all over again, I would mount up the subframe before finishing the coolant plumbing; those hoses are a little brittle and are right in the way.

That being said, I won't lie ... I am at a low point of this project. I know I'll get through it, but I'm just feeling really down about it right now. Hopefully my stuff comes back from the powder coater soon, and the items I am missing from my kit arrive, so I can distract myself with getting the car on all fours.

My head is pounding and the aspirin hasn't kicked in yet. Here's a couple more pics.

20200616_180845.jpg


20200616_180855.jpg


20200616_180905.jpg
 
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Ark, you're doing the right things. There is just something small that is being overlooked that is causing the no-start issue. At some point you will find the problem - doing a facepalm :eek: - that will be another lesson learned for all of us watching your build and trying to help. Work on some other things, walk away for a while, play with your kids, and remember that small setbacks are all part of the building experience. If this wasn't a challenge to your skills and thinking it would just be a boring job. :D
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Every project hits a low point where stuff isn’t going well. Take a deep breath and start working through things again, you’ll find the problem.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Whisky. Lots and lots of whisky. That’s my solution. o_O And a cigar or 2.

on the motor/trans mounts. My solution was to keep everything loose. Cradle, engine mounts, trans mounts, everything And it just slips all together. I know you don’t want to hear that. :p

Minor setback. We all have had them. I have them every time I go to work on mine. :confused: I have fought this thing since the start of the build. Sometimes I want to push it in the corner and let it rot to death. The only thing keeping me going is knowing one day I’ll get to drive it and impress a ton of people I don’t know or care about. :cool:
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Jeremy, You got this mannnnnn!!!!!!
Gonna make it that much sweeter when you are driving it.
After a shower and some dinner (and a little Hunt: Showdown with my buddy) I'm feeling better.

How are you testing with the original clutch sensor? Just wondering since you said you broke it.
I broke off the bolt when I tried to unscrew it, but the sensor still works. I can't bolt it up, but I can emulate the clutch pedal being pushed in close enough, I would think, so I just plugged in the broken sensor and tried a few times. No dice.

Every project hits a low point where stuff isn’t going well. Take a deep breath and start working through things again, you’ll find the problem.
I will. Thanks for the encouragement.

Whisky. Lots and lots of whisky. That’s my solution. o_O And a cigar or 2.

on the motor/trans mounts. My solution was to keep everything loose. Cradle, engine mounts, trans mounts, everything And it just slips all together. I know you don’t want to hear that. :p

Minor setback. We all have had them. I have them every time I go to work on mine. :confused: I have fought this thing since the start of the build. Sometimes I want to push it in the corner and let it rot to death. The only thing keeping me going is knowing one day I’ll get to drive it and impress a ton of people I don’t know or care about. :cool:
That's what I did, kept everything loose. I was pretty cranky and had a headache and an empty stomach, probably made it feel a lot worse than it was!
 

Murcielago311

Well-Known Member
I'm at the same frustration point as you. I'm ready to be done building and start driving but things have started to not go as well as I had hoped lately. We'll get there.

Currently drinking on the couch instead installing my front brakes because the powder shop PAINTED them shitilly because they 'couldn't be disassembled' and completely effed the dust boots and apparently didn't lube the seal or it's bound up because the piston won't come out for me to fix it.

Btw all the rear suspension and toe link stuff goes right in easily with your subframe installed. No worries there.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I broke off the bolt when I tried to unscrew it, but the sensor still works. I can't bolt it up, but I can emulate the clutch pedal being pushed in close enough, I would think, so I just plugged in the broken sensor and tried a few times. No dice.
I think the sensor has to be in a precise location when you press the pedal before it will start. Hold the sensor like it was bolted down, press the pedal down and see if that helps any.
 
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