Ark's City Goblin #187 (2008 SS/TC donor)
- Thread starter Ark :D
- Start date
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
That is what is on mine. Still looks good other than some self inflicted scratches.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
If it shows wear / age in a year. Slap on another coat!
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Smallish progress toward that first start today.
Amazon brought me some more 3/8" nylon hose so I could finish the brake runs and the clutch run in the front. Yes, I know you're not supposed to use regular hose clamps, but I did anyway. Don't mind the untidy wires, I haven't finished up wrapping the harness because I haven't gotten the first start yet, and I need to fix my bugaboo with swapping the headlights and turn signals, first.
I picked up some heater hose so I could connect the bottom port on my coolant reservoir to the coolant loop T on the engine. I got about as much coolant into the loop as I could without it circulating, about a gallon and a half. One thing I forgot about though.. on the bottom of my coolant reservoir, there's a small hole that's plugged with a red plastic plug. After I had filled the coolant loop as much as I could, I noticed the plug, so I pulled it out and coolant dribbled out. I put the plug back, went and checked my first donor's coolant reservoir (I could not use that one because the clip was busted off), and it's not plugged. Looks like it's there to make sure the reservoir isn't over-filled, so I'll wait until I get the coolant circulating, then I'll remove the plug.
I dropped my remaining parts at the powder coater to get done. Including:
Finally, I sprayed my DF exhaust with the high-temp silver Krylon I got earlier today. That stuff is amazing ... it goes on so easy, and it's really hard to mess up, unlike the Rustoleum semi-gloss high-temp black I've used in a few other places. After I sprayed it, I looked at the rust-colored exhaust manifold, most of which is now exposed because I took the horrible-looking bottom part of the heat shield off of it, and I knew I had to take it off and spray it, too. The contrast between it and the muffler would have just looked awful. So, I did.
I almost wish I had painted the entire engine using this Krylon stuff. Maybe that'll be my off-season Goblin project.
I discovered that I missed grounding one of the ground leads in the rear end when I tried to jump the fuel pump relay to prime the fuel system. It took me a little while to figure it out, but I know the old adage ... "Always check your grounds first, stupid", or something like that. Found it, grounded it, primed the fuel system no problem. My fuel level gauge doesn't work though.
There won't be a first-start today, unfortunately. My battery is too low, so I have it reconditioning/trickle-charging. Hopefully it's not shot, but it might be. It still has enough juice to light the display up, but the car security light stays on and the fuel pump won't turn on. Google tells me that these are symptoms of a very low battery, and I believe it, even though the voltage tests decent (a little over 12 volts).
I won't be too upset if I have to buy a new battery, though. I decided to list my engine hoist and leveler on FB Marketplace for $200, and it sold in about 10 minutes. A sale isn't a sale until the cash is in-hand, of course, but that'll offset the new battery nicely.
Amazon brought me some more 3/8" nylon hose so I could finish the brake runs and the clutch run in the front. Yes, I know you're not supposed to use regular hose clamps, but I did anyway. Don't mind the untidy wires, I haven't finished up wrapping the harness because I haven't gotten the first start yet, and I need to fix my bugaboo with swapping the headlights and turn signals, first.
I picked up some heater hose so I could connect the bottom port on my coolant reservoir to the coolant loop T on the engine. I got about as much coolant into the loop as I could without it circulating, about a gallon and a half. One thing I forgot about though.. on the bottom of my coolant reservoir, there's a small hole that's plugged with a red plastic plug. After I had filled the coolant loop as much as I could, I noticed the plug, so I pulled it out and coolant dribbled out. I put the plug back, went and checked my first donor's coolant reservoir (I could not use that one because the clip was busted off), and it's not plugged. Looks like it's there to make sure the reservoir isn't over-filled, so I'll wait until I get the coolant circulating, then I'll remove the plug.
I dropped my remaining parts at the powder coater to get done. Including:
- Water-to-air (or is it air-to-water??) intercooler
- Mounting brackets for the intercooler
- Battery hold-down bar
- Shift cable mount plate
- Rear coilover adapters
- Both pairs of front brake adapter plates
- Both replacement control arms Adam sent me (many thanks again!)
- Windshield mounting bar/bracket
Finally, I sprayed my DF exhaust with the high-temp silver Krylon I got earlier today. That stuff is amazing ... it goes on so easy, and it's really hard to mess up, unlike the Rustoleum semi-gloss high-temp black I've used in a few other places. After I sprayed it, I looked at the rust-colored exhaust manifold, most of which is now exposed because I took the horrible-looking bottom part of the heat shield off of it, and I knew I had to take it off and spray it, too. The contrast between it and the muffler would have just looked awful. So, I did.
I almost wish I had painted the entire engine using this Krylon stuff. Maybe that'll be my off-season Goblin project.
I discovered that I missed grounding one of the ground leads in the rear end when I tried to jump the fuel pump relay to prime the fuel system. It took me a little while to figure it out, but I know the old adage ... "Always check your grounds first, stupid", or something like that. Found it, grounded it, primed the fuel system no problem. My fuel level gauge doesn't work though.
There won't be a first-start today, unfortunately. My battery is too low, so I have it reconditioning/trickle-charging. Hopefully it's not shot, but it might be. It still has enough juice to light the display up, but the car security light stays on and the fuel pump won't turn on. Google tells me that these are symptoms of a very low battery, and I believe it, even though the voltage tests decent (a little over 12 volts).
I won't be too upset if I have to buy a new battery, though. I decided to list my engine hoist and leveler on FB Marketplace for $200, and it sold in about 10 minutes. A sale isn't a sale until the cash is in-hand, of course, but that'll offset the new battery nicely.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
Don't fret about the clamps on the brake reservoir. Per Lonny, you do not even need clamps. No pressure there. Just a leak possibility.
dfkitcar.com
Are you sure that hole and red plug in the expansion tank are OEM? I do not have one? Not sure what pressure the expansion tank might see, but that little plug does not look as robust as the filler cap. Or, is that really small and just the overflow from the filler cap port?
Jason in Texas - ext. track - 09 SS/TC
Brake fluid doesn't sweat out of the fuel line? No, it's been about a year and half and looks and feels like the day I installed it.
Are you sure that hole and red plug in the expansion tank are OEM? I do not have one? Not sure what pressure the expansion tank might see, but that little plug does not look as robust as the filler cap. Or, is that really small and just the overflow from the filler cap port?
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
The hole is definitely OEM. Both of my coolant reservoirs have it ... the only reason it's plugged on the reservoir I installed is because I bought it from eBay, and it shipped with plugs in all the holes. Since I painted it black and it was full of coolant, I could not tell what the hole was for, so I looked on the other reservoir and it just appears to be there to prevent overfilling and/or for pressure equalization. Once I get the coolant circulating, I'll see if it still leaks.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Did you address your clutch sensor relearn yet?
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Not yet. I called my local mechanic who I've been using for 20+ years to talk it out. The conversation with the receptionist was pretty funny.
Her: "Can I help you?"
Me: "Yes. I have a vehicle that's in need of a clutch/brake position sensor relearn. I was hoping to talk to one of your mechanics about it."
Her: "A what now? What kind of car is it?"
Me: "It's complicated."
Her: "Ok, but I can't book an appointment without putting what kind of car it is."
Me: "It's a 2008 Chevy Cobalt SS."
Her: "What engine?"
Me: "2.0L turbo."
Her: "Ok I've got an appointment set up for you."
Me: "So can I talk to one of your mechanics? This is a little more complicated that a simple procedure."
Her: "Sure, hold on."
*time passes*
Mechanic: "I hear you have something complicated going on?"
Me: "Yep. I am building a kit car out of a wrecked 2008 Cobalt SS, and I had to replace the clutch and brake pedal position sensors. I understand that it needs a GM Tech2 tool to deal with recalibrating these things. Do you have one of those?"
Him: "Sure, bring it on down."
Me: "Ok, I will tow it there once it has wheels."
Hahah!
But, I guess I should ask ... is this how the need for a clutch relearn manifests itself? With the car security light and all?
*edit* Just answered that question for myself. I still have the original sensor, and even though it's broken, I can still plug it in. It matters not which sensor is plugged in, the result is the same: car security light on.
Last edited:
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
From a service perspective, you're basically dealing with a Cobalt. The relearn procedure is identical whether in a Cobalt or Goblin. I would have saved the surprise until it was towed down there. 
The clutch sensor circuit shouldn't have anything to do with the security light. I'd run through the basics again by making sure your BCM power wire is connected and the fuse box ground is hooked up. You also mentioned you were getting power steering codes? I'd make sure you don't have any loose connections in your power steering control module. Your data wires run through that so if that's not good to go, then it will cause all kinds of strange issues.
The clutch sensor circuit shouldn't have anything to do with the security light. I'd run through the basics again by making sure your BCM power wire is connected and the fuse box ground is hooked up. You also mentioned you were getting power steering codes? I'd make sure you don't have any loose connections in your power steering control module. Your data wires run through that so if that's not good to go, then it will cause all kinds of strange issues.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Tighten up the big connector bolts again in the BCM, we've seen that cause problems too.
Check your grounds.
Hook a long wire to your negative battery post and touch it to each of you grounds lugs while the key is on.
Check data wire continuity by hooking one probe of a continuity checker to one of the tan data wires at the OBDII, and the other probe touching the data wire at the ECM.
Repeat this for the other data wire.
If you have an RPD it has to be plugged in for the engine to run.
Make sure all of your green low speed data wires are hooked together.
Does your throttle respond to the accelerator pedal?
Does the fuel pump ever prime?
Did you tighten all five of the fuse box connector bolts?
Have you changed ignition switches, keys, BCMs or ECMs?
Hook a long wire to your negative battery post and touch it to each of you grounds lugs while the key is on.
Check data wire continuity by hooking one probe of a continuity checker to one of the tan data wires at the OBDII, and the other probe touching the data wire at the ECM.
Repeat this for the other data wire.
If you have an RPD it has to be plugged in for the engine to run.
Make sure all of your green low speed data wires are hooked together.
Does your throttle respond to the accelerator pedal?
Does the fuel pump ever prime?
Did you tighten all five of the fuse box connector bolts?
Have you changed ignition switches, keys, BCMs or ECMs?
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Lonny, thanks for chiming in. I ran out of daylight for today.
I checked all the grounds in the harness while working on the videos. All of them were good while the harness was out of the car.
Thus far, I have checked continuity of the twisted pair from the OBDII through the BCM. What pins represent the data wires at the ECM? I did not have that information readily available.
No RPD, so no problem there.
I will search the forum and try to find a list of all the green wire connections. Five, I believe ... I know the list is on here, possibly in this very thread! lol
Will check the throttle tomorrow/gas pedal tomorrow.
The fuel pump does not prime, no. Fuel pump is disabled while the car security light is on, correct? That is on, full-time.
I tightened all five fuse box bolts. Checked and double-checked.
I had a mishap while separating my donor's steering wheel from the column, and damaged the theft module that came with my donor. I then bought a different ignition/key, but I eventually learned how to take the theft module off of the ignition, and swapped the good theft module onto the original ignition. So in other words, I am running the original ignition and key, but a different theft module. I have not changed the BCM or ECM out.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
Quoting to make it easier to find, tomorrow.
Ark :D
Goblin Guru
So um, I just swapped my original ignition barrel and key for those from the eBay ignition, and lo and behold, my car security light went out?? Is the key learned and stored on the theft module that goes on the ignition? I had thought that was not the case, but... here we are.
Still no crank though.
Still no crank though.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
That 90 degree port on the backside of your valve cover with the short hose attached. You got that figured out? If not, here is what I did:
RouteAbel's Extended Track Easy Entry - '10SS/TC build
Looks great. Guessing the learning experience may offset the desire to purchase a new engine? There is always a level of satisfaction completing a project and getting excellent results. :D