Base Model Turbo Install

[JSATX]

Well I'm nearly ready to actually install my turbo, lots of things have changed since the last post in this thread.

Initially I bought a 2002 turbo and manifold. THOSE WILL NOT FIT

It needs to be a 2004+ turbo as that's when the 9-3 switched to the ecotec motor. The 9-3 essentially came with two different turbos, either a Garrett T25 or a MHI TD04.

The TD04 was a larger, higher pressure turbo. It's also used on the WRX and is the preferred model, and since they were the same price that's what I got.

It uses m12x1.5 fittings all the way around. For the water lines I found m12 to 1/2" barb fittings, for the oil I found an m12 to -4an fitting. Both on eBay for about $20 total.

I have purchased Siemens 60# injectors ev6 for the fuel delivery.

I am going to set up everything and make sure it works before spending the money on rods and pistons. It shouldn't blow immediately on 6-7lbs of boost, and that'll give me a little time to fine tune it before the forged components go in.

 

[PG5]

I'm really curious to see how this turns out. I've been looking into the SAAB B207R Motor. They are fairly cheap. I've been reading about it and it looks like it could be adapted by swapping a few sensors. I don't think this would be a cost effective route, but I understand the B207R has a good bottom end.

 

[JSATX]

Lots of progress has been made. The oil lines are done, block has been drilled for oil return etc. I had to get the SS/TC water pump pipe to clear the turbo manifold but that was no big deal. At this point I’m pretty much just waiting to get my PCM back from ZZP.

 

[JSATX]

Can someone post a picture of where the O2 sensor is on the turbo car? Trying to make a downpipe, I think I’m going to place it just a couple inches from the turbo exhaust but not sure.

 

[Briann1177]

I can post one when I get home.

Edit. Looks like Tony has what you're looking for.

Tony's City Goblin - 2010 SS/TC

 

[Johvans]

Everything looks great! Where are you planning on putting the MAF?

I've also been told that the heater inlet/outlet holes for the heater core can be plugged. I'm thinking that I'm going to pull the hard pipes out and drill and tap them with NPT plugs. Might make running your downpipe easier.

John

 

[Karter2026]

I've also been told that the heater inlet/outlet holes for the heater core can be plugged. I'm thinking that I'm going to pull the hard pipes out and drill and tap them with NPT plugs. Might make running your downpipe easier.

John

There is this route also I think it is a bit pricey. http://store.custombuiltmotors.com/cooling-system/cbm-motorsports-20l-22l-24l-l61-le5-lsj-lnf-ecotec-billet-water-neck-block.html

 

[Johvans]

There is this route also I think it is a bit pricey. http://store.custombuiltmotors.com/cooling-system/cbm-motorsports-20l-22l-24l-l61-le5-lsj-lnf-ecotec-billet-water-neck-block.html

Only downside is it doesn't accept a thermostat..

John

 

[BAR-AIR]

Here is the one I am using. Hard lines pulled then tapped and plugged.

Makes for a cleaner look plus never intended on putting heat in the car other than possibly doing heated seats in the future.

 

[SliderR1]

What thread size/pitch were the plugs that you used?

 

[Briann1177]

How much effort is involved in pulling the heater lines? Do they twist right out?

 

[BAR-AIR]

I want to say that they are 1/2” NPT but I’ll have to check. One of the tubes came right out the other was a pain (ended up cutting it inside the housing then breaking it out). When I drilled and tap just be careful not a lot of meat (material) to work with on one of the holes.

 

[Briann1177]

I don't have a 23/32" drill bit to tap a 1/2" NPT thread, but it appears the holes are right around 3/4" which means it's too big to start with. It also doesn't appear to have enough material to go to 3/4" NPT.

 

[Briann1177]

My inlet has a different part number. No drilling required however. Holes are within 1/64" of what's required for a 1/2" NPT.

Thanks for the idea, Bruce.

 

[JSATX]

Everything looks great! Where are you planning on putting the MAF?

I've also been told that the heater inlet/outlet holes for the heater core can be plugged. I'm thinking that I'm going to pull the hard pipes out and drill and tap them with NPT plugs. Might make running your downpipe easier.

John

It’ll be a blow through pretty close to the throttle. I want an atmospheric BOV and in order to do that I’ll have to put the BOV before the MAF

 

[JSATX]

View attachment 2340 Here is the one I am using. Hard lines pulled then tapped and plugged.
View attachment 2341
Makes for a cleaner look plus never intended on putting heat in the car other than possibly doing heated seats in the future.

That looks really nice.

The stock turbo takes its water from the boss just below the left hand heater pipe. I was wondering if it would be possible to run the turbo coolant from that pipe but don’t know how or if it’s all connected.

 

[JSATX]

Only downside is it doesn't accept a thermostat..

John

It was my understanding that most track vehicles remove the thermostat. Ive not done the research though I don’t know what the positives and negatives are for that.

 

[Briann1177]

That looks really nice.

The stock turbo takes its water from the boss just below the left hand heater pipe. I was wondering if it would be possible to run the turbo coolant from that pipe but don’t know how or if it’s all connected.

In an LNF the coolant feed pipe is sourced from the engine neck by the water pump. The return pipe hooks up to the thermostat housing.

 

[JSATX]

In an LNF the coolant feed pipe is sourced from the engine neck by the water pump. The return pipe hooks up to the thermostat housing.

Are you sure that’s not backwards? The Saab turbo cool line “in” comes from the fitting circled below the heater core pipe. The turbo water “out” then connects to the upper radiator hose hot side.

 

[JSATX]

Is this where your turbo connects?