Bearing Hub Info (4 lug, 5 lug, ABS)

Adam

Administrator
Staff member
Base Model
The base Cobalt came with two lug patterns:
  • 4 x 100 - fairly common pattern, easy to find 15-16 inch wheels with this pattern
  • 5 x 110 - uncommon pattern
Both versions have the smaller Cobalt axle spline so they are interchangeable if you want to change your lug pattern.

We recommend swapping to 4x100 to make it easier to find wheels. All you have to do is buy 4 lug base model hubs (2 front and 2 rear) from your local auto parts store.


SS/SC (05-07)
The SS/SC Cobalt only came with the 5 x 110 lug pattern.

The SS/SC 5x110 bearing hub has the same size axle spline as the base model. This means that you can easily swap to 4x100 just by swapping out the hubs.

We recommend swapping to 4x100 to make it easier to find wheels. All you have to do is buy 4 lug base model hubs (2 front and 2 rear) from your local auto parts store.


SS/TC (08-10)
The SS/TC Cobalt only came with the 5 x 110 lug pattern.

The SS/TC 5x110 bearing hub has a larger axle spline than the base or SC hubs. This means you have to stick with a 5 lug pattern.

We recommend redrilling your hubs to 5x114.3. This pattern is far more common and easier to find wheels for.

If your donor had ABS, you will have clearance issues when you move the rear Cobalt bearing hubs to the front. The wheel speed sensor collides with the steering arm.


ABS/Wheel Speed Sensors
We haven't attempted to adapt the Cobalt ABS. The system is pretty complex and would need quite a bit of work to get it to function safely.

When you move an ABS equipped rear bearing hub to the front of the Goblin the wheel speed sensor plug and housing will contact the steering arm. The wheel speed sensor plastic will need to be modified for the hub to bolt up without damaging the hub.

There are two different versions of the wheel speed sensor and one of them (the one on the right) is much easier to adapt.

abs hubs compared.jpg


The first style, part number 512250, has a tall plastic housing that has major interference with the steering arm. If you cut this plastic housing enough to clear the steering arm, the bearing inside will be exposed. You'll have to figure out a way to seal up this hole with the plastic removed.

The other style, part number 512285, has a shorter housing. For this style, you will just have to cut the connector portion of the wheel speed sensor to get it to clear. This does not expose the bearing.

These hubs are interchangeable on the Goblin. If you have the version on the left, we recommend replacing it with the version on the right to make modifying the hub much easier.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Darn. I bought two brand new 512250s a couple of months ago and painted them up.

I ground down the connector so that about 1/8" is sticking up all the way around. Any deeper than that, and I'll have a gaping hole. Will this be enough to clear?
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Also, you can swap the TC axles for SC axles with no issues. Same diameter and spline count for the transmission side. That will allow you to get to 4x100 much easier. I should have gone that route.

The middle section of the axle will be quite a bit smaller, but it shouldn't matter on the Goblin.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I don't see the 512250s working. Grrr. With the connector completely off, they are still 3/4" or so taller than the 512285s with no connector.

I would suspect there is not that much clearance on the Goblin as the connector itself is about that tall.
 

Adam

Administrator
Staff member
I don't see the 512250s working. Grrr. With the connector completely off, they are still 3/4" or so taller than the 512285s with no connector.

I would suspect there is not that much clearance on the Goblin as the connector itself is about that tall.
On our SS/SC car we removed the plastic piece entirely and made two aluminum caps to seal the cavity. For the price of the machined caps, you can have new hubs so that's why I suggested that in my above post.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Very good write-up. I was putting bits and pieces of this together, but this is all of it. I know Nuker has some 4x100 hubs without the sensor, I'd like to find part numbers for those just so there aren't any problems.
 

KJP

Well-Known Member
Has any one tried finding hubs off another vehicle what will bolt up with the 5x114.3 pattern or is redrilling the only option for the TC cars?
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Has something changed with the steering arm design that prevents the use of the 512250s? I completely removed the plastic connector but there is still no way they'll fit.

This is by far the most expensive redo I've had to make so far. $300 for new hubs because I was under the impression they can still work.
 

Indy Lonnie

Well-Known Member
So I have ‘06 SS/SC rear hubs for my front suspension, what exactly needs to be done to make them work? I have taken off the black caps with the electrical connector. Does any more have to be cut off? Or do I just need to cap that off so debris doesn’t get into the bearing? Thanks!
I removed the sensor with a hammer/chisel and covered it with an old spray paint cap with some silicone. The cap will need to be cut down some and slightly pie cut (notched) for it to fit properly.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I have the same donor & 512250 hubs. I took the ABS cap off of the wheel bearing hub (insert the yellow ply bar at this location), then cut them lower. I'm using the HVAC aluminum tape to seal up the top of the bearing cap, but silicone and a plastic cap would work too.

8149

8150
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I haven't tried to 3d printed caps, but I think that you either seal the top of the cut down caps OR use a 3d printed caps. Not both. Both will cap off the back side of the wheel bearing spindle. I was concerned that there may be too much heat for 3d printed caps, so I chose to cut down the stock part.
 
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