Bearing Hub Info (4 lug, 5 lug, ABS)

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
There we go! Popped the caps off, cut them shorter, slapped them back on. Now I’ll just need to get those 3D printed caps for the back side of the spindle. Thanks for the help guys.
I have the 3d caps from DF. Post 215:

 

askiles

Goblin Guru
I haven't tried to 3d printed caps, but I think that you either seal the top of the cut down caps OR use a 3d printed caps. Not both. Both will cap off the back side of the wheel bearing spindle. I was concerned that there may be too much heat for 3d printed caps, so I chose to cut down the stock part.
Understood. Yeah, the cap actually has a rubber type seal in it, and all of that is intact and sealing up the bearing now. So I should be good. Thanks for the help.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I just found this thread while researching the rear hubs. My donor is a 2009 TC. I ordered new axles and front hubs to match this for my build.
I guess I would be better off to return the 09 TC parts and order LSJ axels with base 4 lug hubs front and back?
I guess I need to let Lonny and Adam know I made this change for the correct brake parts to come with my kit?
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Only the knuckles differ for your considerations. If you are keeping your TC knuckles, then DF does not need to be notified. LSJ hubs will fit into LNF knuckles; the difference is in the adapter kit needed to get the brakes mounted.

See: HERE

For reference, I have a TC donor, with SC axles, control arms, and knuckles.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Will probably want to ask DF after all. I don't want to steer you wrong. I have the parking brake kit which muddies the waters a bit too.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I'm starting to think I will be better to just continue with the TC parts. I've been looking at wheels, and it looks like there is enough selection for the 5x110. I guess wheel availability and the abs sensor interference for the Cobalt rear hubs are the only reasons to change.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
If you want 5x114.3, you can just take the hubs you have and redrill them to that pattern, or DF can do it for you for a price. They did mine.

*edit*

The brake discs are drilled for both patterns, I think, regardless of what donor you start with or what kit options you order.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I don't know that I want 5x114.3, I just thought I might have trouble finding wheels in the 5x110. Since I was replacing all of the related parts anyway, I was going to follow Adam's recommendation on page 1 to swap to 4x100. Since I already have the TC parts ordered for the front, I don't know that it's worth the effort to swap.

Thanks for your help.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
Can the steering arm be spaced away from the knuckle? I know I would have to cut down the inner tie rods, but I do not know how it will effect the steering. I have the shorter 512285 hubs, but would like to be able to have use of the sensor to attempt to set up a traction control system with my standalone ECU.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
the steering arm is held in place by 2 bolts. Just add some washers under the arm, and it would be spaced away.
16752
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Can the steering arm be spaced away from the knuckle? I know I would have to cut down the inner tie rods, but I do not know how it will effect the steering. I have the shorter 512285 hubs, but would like to be able to have use of the sensor to attempt to set up a traction control system with my standalone ECU.
That will change your ackerman. It won't be much of an effect going straight, but will change how it turns, mostly at full lock. This small change may or maynot be a bad thing depending on what you are doing with the car. It will also possibly increase any bumpsteer.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I had an idea this morning so I ran out and grabbed these and some 3.5" long 3/8s bolts.

16757


Success! I installed the L/S arm backwards on the R/S knuckle and the R/S arm backwards on the L/S knuckle. With 1 3/8" worth of spacers on one end and 3/4" worth of spacers I was only 1/16" off of having the tie rod pick up point in the same exact location as before. So I tossed on an extra washer and as best as I can measure with a straight edge and a tape measure the tie rod pick up point is dead on where it is suppose to be.

16758


My only concern is the torque being applied to the bolts while steering and bending them since I decreased the footprint of the arm onto the knuckle. If that becomes a problem then I'll just have custom wider spacers made or just have a new arm machined with the proper clearance.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Still trying to understand what advantage this has over using the stock location? The Ackerman and bump steer are going to be affected and this setup looks like it has more potential points of failure. I'm not knocking what you've trying, just trying to see what this gains you?
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
And you are mounting the steering arm upside down? :oops:

Do what you want, but I think you are going to cause all kinds of handling issues with that set up only in order to retain ABS which isn't going to work properly because everything about the car is different than the OEM setup (weight distribution, total weight, etc.). In my opinion, it's a bad idea.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
It allows me to retain the OEM wheel speed/ABS sensors to attempt to set up a traction control system with my MS3 and not have to deal with cutting off the back of the hubs. The tie rod mounting point is in the same exact spot as stock so Ackerman and bumper steer should not be affected. All pivot points are the same, I just have the clearance now to run the hubs as intended by GM.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
What stand alone ECU are you using? I'm curious what ABS capabilities it has. Engineer on my friend!
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
And you are mounting the steering arm upside down? :oops:

Do what you want, but I think you are going to cause all kinds of handling issues with that set up only in order to retain ABS which isn't going to work properly because everything about the car is different than the OEM setup (weight distribution, total weight, etc.). In my opinion, it's a bad idea.
No, by running them on opposite sides the steering attaches exactly as it was originally intended. Same exact direction and same exact position in relation to the knuckle. I am not running ABS. I don't want to go through the headache of finding caps for the back of the hubs and I hope to be able to use the ABS sensor as a wheel speed input to my standalone ECU to enable a traction control system.
 
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