Blue Man's City Goblin - 05 Base Donor

Blue Man

Well-Known Member
Yeah it was a good time. Neighbors came by to check it out and help. We were all for that, especially using that darned hand riveter. Ouch!
 

Blue Man

Well-Known Member
Another update. We got the steering rack on, complete with new tie rod ends. Then we put the brake lines in and ran into a problem. The line ended up being about 1" too long. Did we get shipped a wrong size line?

We "fixed" the problem by putting the brake line under the square frame bar rather than in front of it. I believe we got the end of the line to the right position in the end, but will this placement interfere with anything else being put on the front? Will the line be out of place when we go to attach to it later?

Brake line 1.jpg
Brake line 2.jpg
Brake 3.jpg
 
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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Can you get a better picture of the front end? It's hard to tell how much it's overlapping.

I don't have a photo of mine but will compare when I get home this afternoon. I do remember mine being a little bit long, but not quite an inch.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
When you say 'bottom of the tube', are you saying the bottom of the square tube at the front? Highly recommend not putting a critical to safety part - brake lines - below the frame where it could be potentially damaged.

You say it's too long? Can you not adjust it or slightly bend it - don't kink it - to allow the portion in the first photo to be mounted as per DF instructions?
 

Blue Man

Well-Known Member
Bottom was referenced when upside down.

The bottom picture shows that it is actually mounted on top of the square tube rather than the side like videos.

too much length to “bend” it out, sadly.

do you think it will work as shown in the bottom picture?
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I wish DF put a spiral near the master cylinder. It would make getting everything to line up easier. I had to fight mine quite a bit to get it to line up.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Another update. We got the steering rack on, complete with new tie rod ends. Then we put the brake lines in and ran into a problem. The line ended up being about 1" too long. Did we get shipped a wrong size line?

We "fixed" the problem by putting the brake line under the square frame bar rather than in front of it. I believe we got the end of the line to the right position in the end, but will this placement interfere with anything else being put on the front? Will the line be out of place when we go to attach to it later?

View attachment 39163View attachment 39164View attachment 39165
I would first wait until you have your master cylinder in place before shaping anything but I had a similar set up. I had to bend the top around the tube to have the verical run be flat and make room to thread into the master cylinder. Bad picture but like below. In the end you can always bend to make shorter but much harder to make longer so the default is a touch long by design.

39169
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
I’m trying to find a pic, but I think I had the same issue and solved it by moving the union in at the rear of the tunnel, back a hair.
 

Blue Man

Well-Known Member
  1. The table is just to help you shape the harness during the thinning process. All you need is the tabletop to work on (with markings).
  2. Yes, you should solder, for permanence. Don't use crimps.
  3. You can probably get what you need at an auto parts store, or Amazon.
  4. You can use discarded wire from the harness. DF also sells a properly-colored extension kit on their store.
  5. Amazon. I got an assorted size kit and used almost all of it (the smaller sizes at least).
  6. Lighter works, but a heat gun is handy to have around for other things.
One additional tip: you may have a tendency to question things in the videos if they don't specifically address them, but don't do that. If it's not mentioned, leave it be, it'll get mentioned later. That happened to me numerous times while doing my harness.
Boy, are you right. I didn’t get the full meaning of your advice until I was done. Then I went back and reread your post and thought “I was warned.” Ran into that problem too many times.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Yeah, it's really easy to get into your own head, when getting ahead of yourself on the harness. I think it's the most challenging aspect of the harness, tbh.
 

Blue Man

Well-Known Member
A few more questions for those able and willing to help . . .

1. We only have two hoses left on the engine at this point. They are in the picture below. The one is for the coolant, I believe.

Is the other the brake boost hose they talk about in the videos? We don't have anything coming out of the engine like the video shows. But this hose looks right and fits the hose in the stage 1 kit.

Hoses.jpeg


2. We have an engine warmer plug attached (donor came from Montana). Do we need to keep this or can we remove it? And how would we remove it? Maybe we could just cut the plug? Any thoughts?

Engine Warmer.jpeg


3. Relocating the MALF sensor. Our engine is an auto NA engine. How would we move the MALF to the other side? In the videos they unwind it from the wires coming from the turbo/supercharge plugs? Ours does not attach that way and I'm not sure how to get it to the other side. Any auto NA guys out there that know how to do this?

As always, thanks for the help. We wouldn't even be this far without the support from the forum. ;)
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
1. Brake booster hose goes to the intake manifold - the brake booster just needs a vacuum line. I can't tell from your picture if the small hose leads to the intake, but it does look the right size. The big one looks like a coolant line going into of the thermostat. That is the cold side that will run down the driver's side of the goblin frame.

2. That engine warmer leads to a 120V plug in? If Meridian Idaho gets cold in the winter, you might want to keep it. If you plan on running E85 fuel, I would definately keep it, as E85 doesn't like starting the engine in cold weather. I'm guessing that this is not integrated into the car's 12V electronics, so removing it won't affect any other electrical circuits... it gets unplugged every time you drive it.

3. The MAF (Mass Air flow) sensor? On my supercharged engine, DF included a new intake pipe with the mounting holes for the Cobalt MAF sensor.
Not sure how the NA engine does this.
 
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