Brad's City Goblin - 10 SS/TC Donor, NY Build - FOR SALE

bradr

Well-Known Member
So I may have inadvertently blown up my donors BCM. As a result, I decided to redesign my BCM modifications and implement them on a spare. The BCM will contain all of the fuses and relays for the vehicle with the exception of the cooling fan relay which I will build into the harness and the large fuses that protect the BCM (pictures to come). Let hope this works!

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bradr

Well-Known Member
So I created the ignition adapter board (thread HERE) as part of my larger plan to implement a true push button start for my Goblin. I wanted it to operate the same as a production vehicle. In this case I am emulating a Ford push button start system from the LED indicator behavior (with one improvement) to the actual modes and push button behavior. The logic in the background is actually fairly complex, but a summary of the "modes":
  • Sleep - Everything is off | LED is off
  • Standby - Keyfob is in rage | LED is fading in and out (Ford has the led solid on in this instance)
  • Ignition - Ignition on, engine off | LED flashing rapidly
  • Run - Ignition on, engine on | LED solid on
As for a high level view of how it operates:
  • Pushing the button without the clutch depressed turns on the ignition
  • Pushing the button with the clutch depressed starts the vehicle
  • Pushing the button with the ignition on turns off the ignition
If the engine stalls, pushing in the clutch and pushing the button will cause the vehicle to restart without having to cycle the ignition back off again. If the keyfob fails while the ignition is on, the engine will continue to run. If the engine is not running, you can still start it. I am sure that improvements will be made as I experiment. I am using the same piece of hardware I developed for another Goblin project, with a new code base and paired with a commercial keyfob and receiver.

 

bradr

Well-Known Member
I started dry fitting some parts on the frame. I have installed the steering wheel and found I need to move it down and away from the driver.

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Due to the customizations I have made to the BCM and other items, I decided to go a different route to create a wiring harness. I broke down the harness into the pigtail for each component. I have mounted many of these items, plugged the pigtail in and have routed it back to its destination. The plan is to cut the wires to the proper length, crimp a new pin on and insert it into the proper connector. When able, if the wire is too short, I will replace the entire section of wire to eliminate most if not all unnecessary splices.

I am primarily working on the dash harness right now. The goal is to have several smaller harnesses rather than one big one. This should make it easier as I customize or change things during the initial build process. I think I will be breaking it down into:
  • Dash Harness
  • Body harness
  • Engine Harness
  • Taillight Harness
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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I started dry fitting some parts on the frame. I have installed the steering wheel and found I need to move it down and away from the driver.

View attachment 13392

View attachment 13393

Due to the customizations I have made to the BCM and other items, I decided to go a different route to create a wiring harness. I broke down the harness into the pigtail for each component. I have mounted many of these items, plugged the pigtail in and have routed it back to its destination. The plan is to cut the wires to the proper length, crimp a new pin on and insert it into the proper connector. When able, if the wire is too short, I will replace the entire section of wire to eliminate most if not all unnecessary splices.

I am primarily working on the dash harness right now. The goal is to have several smaller harnesses rather than one big one. This should make it easier as I customize or change things during the initial build process. I think I will be breaking it down into:
  • Headlight Harness
  • Dash Harness
  • Body harness
  • Engine Harness
  • Taillight Harness
View attachment 13391
Brad, have you been documenting what you did when adding circuits to the BCM and eliminating the fuse box? I would definitely be interested in that information. I will have to move or eliminate my fuse box since I am thinking there will not be enough room above the transmission with my intercooler setup.
 

bradr

Well-Known Member
Brad, have you been documenting what you did when adding circuits to the BCM and eliminating the fuse box? I would definitely be interested in that information. I will have to move or eliminate my fuse box since I am thinking there will not be enough room above the transmission with my intercooler setup.
I have not been documenting the internal changes to the BCM with any level of detail. There are many changes that require special tools. I also am not 100% sure this will all work or have the current capacity required. The circuit board appears to be 4 layer, so it is hard to calculate trace capacity without knowing size and height on the middle layers. I'm willing to risk it but would not want someone else to follow in my footsteps.

That all said, you can either move the existing fuse box or re-create it and move it somewhere else. You will need 9-11 relays to replace the existing fuse box. Some of the fuses in the existing fuse box can move to the BCM without modification.

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Above you will see the stock BCM fuse layout, there are many vacated spots (6, 9 if a donor with a 3 wire brake switch, 13, 15, 17, 23, 24, 28, 29) with various functions. I have listed the power source for each circuit which tells you how it functions. For example, BCM 1 and 2 are constant power. The ones with RAP or Run/Crank are switched power.

So, for example:

You could move the following constant power fuses from the fusebox to the BCM:
  • Outlet to BCM Fuse 6
  • DLC to BCM Fuse 23
  • Horn to BCM Fuse 24
You could move the following Ignition power fuses from the fusebox to the BCM:
  • PCM to BCM Fuse 13
  • Backup to BCM Fuse 15
Relays that would need to be replaced:
Starter (+)
Fuel Pump (+)
Ignition (+)
Cooling Fan 1 (-)
Powertrain (-)
CHMSL (+)
Park (-)
Low Beam (-)
High Beam (-)
(I deleted the horn relay. I dont care to have the BCM control the horn. Simple wire from the horn switch to the horn is fine for me).

All the other required fuses in the fuse box are simply a single fuse that is inline with its associated relay (it can be placed before or after). The only exception(s) to this rule is the PCM relay has 4 fused items after the relay and the headlights are split into two fuses each - just combine them into one fuse. If you need more clarity, let me know. This is more of a high level overview.
 

bradr

Well-Known Member
I have been slowly working on the various harnesses as time allows. The dash harness is 90% done. I decided to combine the body and headlight harnesses which is now about 40% done. Engine harness has been thinned out but needs to be reworked so I can relocate the PCM. I also need to place another order for connectors and pins to finish the project.

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bradr

Well-Known Member
Harness Update:
  • Dash harness - Complete
  • Body harness - 90% Complete (intercooler power/ground missing)
  • Tail harness - 80% Complete (waiting to crimp on last connectors once I know final placement)
  • Engine harness - 10% Complete (harness thinned)
I also need to make the seat harnesses and wire up some custom button panels for around the instrument cluster. Once all the harnesses are complete and fully tested, I will be wrapping them in braided loom. Until then, they will look a bit sloppy.

Here is my new fuse box - It is weather tight and completely replaces the factory fuse box on the engine. The other required fuses and relays are now located in the BCM. New fuse box fuses:
  • Power Steering
  • BCM1
  • BCM2
  • BCM3
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BCM Wiring - As you can see, I am using clecos to secure the firewall temporarily.
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Weather tight disconnects for everything
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These two connectors contain all of the wiring required to connect the engine to the rest of the vehicle. The PCM will be mounted to the front of the transmission and be part of the engine harness. This will leave the entire area above the transmission open.
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Ross

Goblin Guru
Wow. That would be nice. Where do you get those water tight connectors from? Is that TXL or GXL wires that you are using?
 

bradr

Well-Known Member
Wow. That would be nice. Where do you get those water tight connectors from? Is that TXL or GXL wires that you are using?
The wire is 98% wire reused from the Cobalt. The wires that connect the gas and clutch to the PCM are TXL that I had on hand. As for connectors, they are Delphi GT series connectors (same ones used several places in the Cobalt). They are all in stock at Mouser.

So far, I believe I only have two wire extensions (splices) in the entire car. One out of necessity, and one out of laziness. Any time I could, I just ran a proper length wire and crimped the required pin on the end. The down side it I spent way too long on the wiring.
 

bradr

Well-Known Member
Today I got the engine harness reworked. The engine is sitting next to the car and plugged in. Everything seems to work as expected so far with two exceptions:
  1. The RPD indicates that the cam phasor angle/overlap data is unavailable.
  2. The cruise control does not work (looking at the Cruise Control status from the BCM on the databus).
I am guessing that the cruise issue is related to the BCM coming from a different car and needing the brake pedal calibrated. The brake pedal does work, and there is an incandescent lamp hooked up to the third brake light. The cam phasor data issue is stumping me.
  • There was no issue before dissembling the car.
  • The engine harness was never removed from the engine.
  • I only clipped the purge solenoid and fan wiring from the harness.
  • The PCM is providing data to the BCM and my scan tool can read the PCM.
  • The PCM is only throwing codes for stuff I expected:
    • EVAP Purge Solenoid
    • EVAP Pressure Sensor
    • Some other EVAP code
    • Fan Relay 1 (Have not connected it yet)
    • Fan Relay 2 (Gone)
  • I do not see any codes in the P001x range.
Knowing that this data is only displayed if your have an RPD, and the RPD gets its data from the PCM on the HS CAN bus, the issue must be with a sensor providing data to the PCM. I cranked the engine over thinking maybe rotating the engine would cause the data to appear, but no such luck. I have some data recordings from before I pulled the engine, Ill have to compare them to what I see now.

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bradr

Well-Known Member
OK, cruise control and several other small things fixed by rolling back the programming in the EEPROM. Im guessing I cleared out an area that needed to be left alone or did not properly replace a checksum in the data when resetting the mileage. Ill have to revisit that some other time. Still having an issue where the cam phasor data is not showing on the RPD. Unimportant, but it still bothers me.

I am working on adding a clock spring to the car as my steering wheel has horn buttons. I did not want to use a wireless solution, so I started looking into clock spring solutions. There is very little room between turn signal cancel cam and the steering wheel hub. I found that with some minor modifications, the clock spring from a 01 Volvo S40 fits inside the NRG steering wheel hub. I now need to manufacture a flat bracket that will attach to the stock DF bearing block and then allow me to secure the clock spring to the bracket using some tube spacers.


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Ross

Goblin Guru
I was able to use the Cobalt clockspring.
I did have to replace the GM electrical connector that came out of the clockspring, as it interfered with the steering wheel,
but luckily the pins are 1/10" apart, so I was able to use a standard connector cut to 10 pins long (red arrow).
I only have the horn hooked up now, but do plan on adding the cruise control buttons in the future.
The other 4 pin connector was for the airbag, but I can't figure out how to remove the connector, so I left them cut short.
But I guess I cheated, as I didn't remove the GM parts below the clockspring.
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