brand new gm crate ecotecs with turbo for $2100 shipped ???
- Thread starter Parson Green
- Start date
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Is the engine for a transverse or longitudinal application? There are intake, exhaust and other accessory differences between them. If you purchased a transverse package (LNF, LDK) there is no differences for the oil pan and it will not need to be swapped.
Everything about the upper portion of the engine seems to be the same and is sold as an LNF replacement. The only thing I found to be different so far is MAP sensor which is a GM 12612110 which seems to be a 4 bar MAP sensor. My car had already had an LDK block swap so I'm not sure what parts are stock anyway. Somewhere along the way I think the ECM was tuned by ZZP, so eventually will need to decide if I want to start with that tune or grab a stock tune from the HP Tuners Repository. But that is a discussion for a whole different post.
Does anyone know where I can get one of these engines? I have a leak in my throwout bearing and am figuring out if I should get a new engine and trans now, or replace just the clutch.
Would this work? Sorry, I am a total noob and over my head here
LDK Long Block
European high-performance version of the LNF with 9.3:1 compression. Also known as A20NFT and A20NHT by GM Powertrain Europe. The LDK engine uses a Gen 3 "sand cast" block, larger oil pan, higher compression pistons, and several enhancements over the LNF. This will directly drop into your...
zzperformance.com
Ross
Goblin Guru
Buying that engine doesn't solve your clutch leaking problem.
You still have to fix the leaky slave cylinder that is behind the throw out bearing, which isn't part of a long block, it is part of the clutch.
Here is a video on removing that. Here is my goblin getting that part replaced.
You still have to fix the leaky slave cylinder that is behind the throw out bearing, which isn't part of a long block, it is part of the clutch.
Here is a video on removing that. Here is my goblin getting that part replaced.
Probably since that has an LNF option.Would this work? Sorry, I am a total noob and over my head here
LDK Long Block
European high-performance version of the LNF with 9.3:1 compression. Also known as A20NFT and A20NHT by GM Powertrain Europe. The LDK engine uses a Gen 3 "sand cast" block, larger oil pan, higher compression pistons, and several enhancements over the LNF. This will directly drop into your...
But Ross is correct unless you just want to upgrade while you are taking it apart anyway.
Scott #321
Well-Known Member
The LNF version has the vacuum pump removed and a block off plate installed. I did at one time consider the LDK version and using the vacuum pump to completely isolate the crank case ventilation from the intake but I don't think it would fit without changing the location of the Goblin fuse box.
Correct, my dilemma was
1. Do I do a clutch replacement kit, timing chain and water pump.
or
2. Replace the engine and trans now.
I am leaning towards option 1 since I am seeing how expensive option 2 is. I spoke with a gentleman from Kansas who bought a second cobalt just for the purpose of having a second LNF engine. I will eventually do that because it just seems like a great option to have a spare engine. I am in a time crunch (internal deadline) so I will likely pass on the new engine now (unless something wild comes across copart)
Nothing really, it's more of a "If I am dropping the motor to replace throwout bearing, timing chain, water pump and flywheel, should I just replace the engine with a less mileage engine"
But I think I am going to just replace the throwout bearing and slap it back together and utilize the engine it has since it is only at 110k. I will eventually get another engine, but not at this moment.
Sluggonaut
Goblin Guru
If you are at 110k and do maintenance, you're better off than getting another mystery box engine with fewer miles, as you'll still be looking at doing the same maintenance before installing, if not shortly thereafter.
If/when it does break, you're better off rebuilding with better internals than swapping in another stock motor or spare stock parts.
If/when it does break, you're better off rebuilding with better internals than swapping in another stock motor or spare stock parts.
That does make sense. Thank you for that.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
This is what I did, bought a spare cobalt ss for parts. My cobalt was beat pretty good by 2 teenagers and I haven’t exactly been nice to it at autocross and such. I decided on another doner so I could scavenge parts. I want to rebuild the LSJ with upgrades and have it ready to replace what I have now. An extra trans, computers, ps motor and such will be good spares too. Once it cools off here I plan on tearing into it.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
Sounds like there is a lot of research that needs to be done.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
A "little" part of Josh 09's equation that has been kind of glossed over is the fact his Goblin is right between first start and first DRIVE!
Take a moment to remember these days of your own build?!! (On one of my own first starts I put 4 quarts of oil on the garage floor because I was ALMOST THERE! No oil filter and canister top was off, I used a whole bag of oil dry that day.) Patience My Friend!, you'll get there!
Take a moment to remember these days of your own build?!! (On one of my own first starts I put 4 quarts of oil on the garage floor because I was ALMOST THERE! No oil filter and canister top was off, I used a whole bag of oil dry that day.) Patience My Friend!, you'll get there!