Brett W’s City Goblin – 09 SS Donor #229 v1

Brett

Well-Known Member
Hello fellow Goblin builders. I am Brett W in Houston, TX and I am in the midst of my Goblin build. At a high level, I am building an extended frame, full cage, easy entry Goblin using a 2009 Cobalt SS as a donor.

At the beginning of 2020, I decided it was time to embark on a life goal of building a car. I have been researching this subject for many years and the time was right to execute. I have looked at everything from the various Cobra builds, Lotus 7 type vehicles (Stalkers / Caterhams / Westfields and others) and even considered building a Locost from the ground up. After working on my welding, I realized that I would rather put my faith in the welds of an experienced welder over that of my own.

Sometime in 2015, Adam posted on the locostusa forum about the Goblin and that piked my interest. It seemed that it was priced right and used the single donor concept that I preferred. In addition, I would not have to rely on my subpar welding abilities. In 2016/2017, I was about to embark on my dream and then titles began to be revoked in the state of Texas. I decided to take a pause while that issue was resolved. Now, 5 years later and the finances / personal life / work life / legislature / spouse aligned, and I started searching for a donor.

Initially, I started searching Facebook Marketplace / Craigslist for a TC donor however the prices were more than I wanted to spend. I setup searches on Copart and IAAI for the Houston area and eventually a 2009 Cobalt SS became available. I believe that was in February 2020. I noticed that with Copart and IAAI, when a car was listed it might take several months for the vehicle to be schedule for auction. I assume that this is due to insurance / legal issues that are waiting to be resolved. However, for the vehicle I found, an auction date was listed after about 5 days. Now I had 2 weeks to figure out how to bid with IAAI.

In my case, I chose to go with SalvageBID for the broker to purchase the Cobalt. They were easy to work with and I won the auction with a bid of $1,400.00. After fees, cost was $2,204 for the vehicle. Delivery was another $196 for a total of $2400. I ended up with a 2009 Cobalt SS that had be t-boned in the back left. The left rear wheel had been ripped of and the rear axle was broken.

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After a quick trip to the local pick-a-pull junk yard and picking up a replacement axle. I was able to get the Cobalt back on all four wheels. However, I was unable to find a spare rear axle for an SS with disc brakes (at a reasonable price). Due to this, the rear brakes were plugged with a bolt and the brakes were kind of sketchy. Once I checked the fluids and charged the battery, the car started right up.

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In July of 2020, my son and I spent about a week stripping the donor. We were able to sell off several parts and netted about $600 in revenue. Honestly, I was less concerned about recovering cost from the donor and more concerned about my HOA complaining about a vehicle without plates.

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My wife took out an add on facebook for a “free shell” no title and, after filtering through the trash reply’s, a gentleman came and hauled off the shell. Zero cost to me and minimal effort. With the current low cost of scrap metal, I felt this was a win / win.

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I ordered my kit in the end of July and was able to pick it up on October 17. I rented a 6x12 U-Haul trailer and pulled it behind my wife’s Kia Sedona minivan. While the gas mileage suffered, the minivan handled the 500+ mile trip with no issues. Here is a pic of a buddy of mine that made the trip with me, myself, and my father that drove down from north Dallas for the pickup. As always, Lonnie and his team were great host and we ended up visiting for about 1.5 hours before having lunch and heading back home to Houston.

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While waiting on my kit to be ready, I started researching powder coating companies in my area. I ended up taking my frame and 23 other parts to get powder coated. While this was an expensive option, Cutting Edge Powder Coating did an outstanding job on the frame and various brackets. If I were to do it again, I think I would go ahead and get the sheet metal powder coated along with the fuel tank. I went with Graphite Charcoal from prismatic powders. Total turn around was 7 days. The following are a couple of pic’s of the frame headed to powder coat and the finished product.

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My son and I have been busy working on the kit. So far, we have installed the cooling hoses, brake lines, horn, brake booster, pedal box, ignition switch, sheet metal, fuel tank, and some other random items.


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One last item, a neighbor and good friend writes for Hagerty. He has started writing up my build for their social media platform. My Goblin project is featured along with one of his restoration projects. I know Hagerty has been unwilling to insure Goblins, maybe we can change that. Here is a link to his first article:

https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/two-neighbors-two-garages-two-project-cars/

Please let me know if you see anything that I have done incorrectly or am missing.

Thanks,
Brett
 
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Brett

Well-Known Member
Now, for my first series of questions.

Currently wrapping up stage 1.

-Where did you anchor your brake lines? I have followed the written and video directions and still have many extra brackets. Should I hold off and worry about it when I have the braking system completed all the way to the calipers?

-Clutch line brackets - Where do these go? Can I also use the brackets used for the brake lines for the clutch line?

-I know one of the half shafts is broken. I see a large spread in prices for replacement half shafts. from $55 at Rock Auto, 100-250 at Autozone, and 450+ from some of the specialty Cobalt parts companies. Would there be a significant difference from the Rock Auto units and the Autozone units?

-I am about to embark on Stage 2. Are there any directions for stage 2 or should I just be studying all the various pictures.

I wish there were "pinned" threads in the assembly discussion for those important threads.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I only did a few anchor points before I connected up the whole system. Then added more bracing later. You want to stop vibration in brake lines and clutch lines, so I would think you can use the same brackets on them.

Rock Auto had about 10 different axles for my smaller drive shafts, which was better selection than the local auto parts stores. I consider them both to carry a selection, no one better than the other, but Rock Auto prices usually beat them (by a lot).

This forum's search is pretty good at finding stuff, but this and the build videos are your guides, there are no printed directions. If you can't find it, just ask, someone will know, or have the key words to help find what your searching for.
 

k.rollin

Goblin Guru

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Brett

Well-Known Member
The nest is growing here in Houston!!!!
Welcome aboard Brett!

:)
Looks like you are several steps ahead of me. I have been following along in your build log and will most likely be using it as a guide as I move past stage 1.

I am in Spring Branch just north of Memorial City mall. I am guessing that you are out off 290 somewhere.
 
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Rttoys

Goblin Guru
Mom’s side of the family grew up in old Spring branch. Still have an original acre there :eek:

Hangerty wouldn’t insure mine. Originally they said they would, then backed out. :rolleyes:
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Looks like you are several steps ahead of me. I have been following along in your build log and will most likely be using it as a guide as I move past stage 1.

I am in Spring Branch just north of Memorial City mall. I am guessing that you are out off 290 somewhere.
yes, sir. Hwy 6 & 529 area. Let me know if you want a ride - just to get you motivated...... :)
 

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
That's awesome. I know there has been some discussion of issues with Hagerty.
I have everything else through Progressive, and Progressive's classic/collector insurance is through Hagerty. They didn't ask for pictures or provenance either, I just described it as a more modern interpretation of a Seven (mid-engined, independent suspension, etc) and the guy was just like, "oh, cool."
 

Brett

Well-Known Member
Apparently, somebody (me) did not save the fuel lines or the fuel filter from the donor car. I see the thread on fuel line alternatives and plan to use rubber fuel lines and clamps.

Questions:

Does the SS / TC fuel filter have two barbs on one side? Asking because my fuel pump only has one barb so I guess it is return less system.

Is the fuel filter assemble different for the SS / TC?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The TC fuel pump is different than the SC and NA pump. Yes, the TC has one outlet, no return, and the filter is integrated into the pump - no external filter. The barbed out is actually for fuel line quick disconnect that is part of the fuel line you appear to not have saved. You could do a line and clamp, but there may be someone on the forum who has the stock fuel line they are not using. :D
 

Christopher Sanchez

Well-Known Member
Apparently, somebody (me) did not save the fuel lines or the fuel filter from the donor car. I see the thread on fuel line alternatives and plan to use rubber fuel lines and clamps.

Questions:

Does the SS / TC fuel filter have two barbs on one side? Asking because my fuel pump only has one barb so I guess it is return less system.

Is the fuel filter assemble different for the SS / TC?
Sqwatch is right only one connector on fuel pump, the PCM controls the pump to maintain fuel pressures. Here is a link for the 3/8 GM quick connectors I used to create an AN fuel line. The plastic fuel line was very stiff and did not fit correctly.

 

Brett

Well-Known Member

Brett

Well-Known Member
Last nights progress.

I got the engine pressure washed. Removed the AC compressor and changed the belt. Installed the Heat Exchanger, figured out the coolant tank mount, and mounted up the adapter for the master cylinder. Created an egr block off plate and numerous random tinkering's.

Questions:

What did you do with the AC compressor wiring?

What else should I do to the engine before I mount it? I know I need to relocate some wiring but beyond that, what should I change out? For now, I am not planning on opening up the engine. It ran and drove so it should work for my needs, initially.

Whats the silver thingy on the top of my engine (first pic).

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The silver 'thingy' is a pulse compensation valve in the high pressure fuel line. It essentially helps smooth out the pressure pulses from the high pressure fuel pump.
Nice work on the rest of the installed parts, looks great. :D
 

Goblin Graber

Well-Known Member
I plan on thinning the AC wires, EVAP, second 02 sensor, and radiator fan plug from my power train harness. You will need to keep the fan wire and pull it back to the fuse block plug. I have to take it off and rewrap it anyways. The loom is just crumbling off it. I don’t want any plugs hanging off either. I want the power train harness to look like it was made for a goblin not a cobalt.
 
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Brett

Well-Known Member
I plan on thinning the AC wires, EVAP, second 02 sensor, and radiator fan plug from my power train harness. You will need to keep the fan wire and pull it back to the fuse block plug. I have to take it off and rewrap it anyways. The loom is just crumbling off it. I don’t want any plugs hanging off either. I want the power train harness to look like it was made for a goblin not a cobalt.
I was thinking the same thing. The loom is crumbling so I plan on wrapping it over again. I will pull on the AC wires and look into the others.
 

Brett

Well-Known Member
Im starting to clean up the engine harness wiring. Just want to confirm a few things before I do something that I might regret.

This is the MAF connector that needs to be relocated, correct?
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Can i remove this o2 sensor?
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What is this connector for?
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