Brian N's A Very Stock Extended City Goblin - 09 SS/TC Donor OKC [*SOLD*]

ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I'm going to be doing some testing with this in a couple of days while at home. I plan to find a small resistor if the LED setup isn't enough.
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
For anybody who wants to mess with resistances in combination with an aftermarket CHMSL, the current draw through an equivalent '00 Chevy Impala brake light is 115mA @ B+. This puts the equivalent resistance to ~105 ohms. The equivalent resistance at 1V is ~8 ohms which lines up with what Lonny posted, but that's only if you want to do away with your brake light.
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Briann1177 said:
For anybody who wants to mess with resistances in combination with an aftermarket CHMSL, the current draw through an equivalent '00 Chevy Impala brake light is 115mA @ B+. This puts the equivalent resistance to ~105 ohms. The equivalent resistance at 1V is ~8 ohms which lines up with what Lonny posted, but that's only if you want to do away with your brake light.
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So if I'm using an aftermarket (LED) light, I just need to add a resistor in series to bring it up to ~100 ohms if it isn't that high?
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I modified my existing cruise control/info switch so that I can attach it directly to my switch panel. I really like the compactness of the switch though it won't be quite as clean or pretty as individual buttons.

I desoldered the connector from the board, and soldered the wires directly to the board. I also shaved off the connector housing to give a nice flat mounting surface.

Cruise_Switch.jpg
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Briann1177 said:
Lonny brought this up somewhere. Im not sure you can use a simple load resistor. The brake wire tees off to your ECM, and it doesn't appear to be a simple on/off circuit. I found three different states to really make things interesting.

1. 1V with light connected and brakes not applied .
2. 7.5V open circuit voltage and brakes not applied.
4. 12V with either light disconnected or not and brakes applied.

I'm not sure what the ECM needs to see and how it uses it to determine if cruise is or isn't activated
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Oddly, I measured mine and I got different results. On #2, I got basically 0vdc on an open circuit. The other two were the same as your result.

I know this doesn't help you much, but just thought that I would share.
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Just a general machine shop question before I stop by one tomorrow. I designed a gauge cluster surround for all my switches using poster board.

I would like to have a nice finish cut on it, but I don't understand how the cutout I have can be turned into machine language. Will it have to be manually drawn by a designer in something like CAD?
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Briann1177 said:
Just a general machine shop question before I stop by one tomorrow. I designed a gauge cluster surround for all my switches using poster board.

I would like to have a nice finish cut on it, but I don't understand how the cutout I have can be turned into machine language. Will it have to be manually drawn by a designer in something like CAD?
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Most likely. Kaleb programs the plasma cutter at school and has to manual program it using it's proprietary software. There is some ability to be able to import certain files (2D) but that depends a lot on the machine itself. If you have a 2D file, it couldn't hurt to take it to them.

If you have all the measurements, I could see if he can CAD a drawing for you. If nothing else, it could be use to clearly communicate what you want to the machine shop.
 
TheNuker

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
If you can design the flat file in something like Fusion 360, a lot of CNC routers can cut from the .stl file that you can export from. If it's more the old school CNC stuff they will want a .step file or other that can be more of a PITA.

What are you wanting it cut out of? If it's CF/alumimum/wood/plexi etc a local hobbiest hacker space should have the equipment to cut it.

I built a CNC 4 axis mill for home use, and man it has came in handy! You can build custom parts out of alumimum or whatever else.

Nuker-
 
Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Depending what you want it cut from, they will draw it in whatever software they use and use a waterjet or plasma/laser. Pretty much any shop will use a .dxf file for either of those. Like Nuker said, it shouldn't be hard to draw it up in Fusion or SketchUp or some other similar free program and save the .dxf (make sure it is scaled 1:1). That would probably save you a few bucks wherever you take it. That process is a pretty big portion of my job, so if it's not a complex shape and you want to take pics with dimensions, I can draw it up in a couple minutes. I'd offer to get it cut too, but shipping would probably cost just as much as having it done locally.
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I dropped off my template, and asked them for a prototype in something like ABS. Once I get all the mounting holes figured out, I'll have them finish it in probably 1/16" aluminum.

Basically it looks like the ears on Lonny's SC car along with a rectangular portion on the bottom that has a place where I can mount things like USB ports, voltmeter, etc. It kind of reminds me of the Ohm symbol split in half, spread apart, and the bottom rectangles filled in to be one. It will be one piece that mounts to the four existing gauge panel holes.

As far as dimensions, the ears were traced out using my gauge cluster and kind of eye balled to get it to look halfway decent. The design portion might cause me a small fortune.
 
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ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
The sides of the "square" on the shaft do limit the amount of side-to-side travel and we had to fine-tune our adjustments to make it work. There is little to no room for error. I other words, if you have plenty of room to move over to First, there isn't enough room to move the right to hit fifth or reverse and vise-versa. It will work, but you have to get the linkage adjusted.
 
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