I haven't resolved that one yet. As soon as I get this airbox done, I will re-explore it. I do plan to run it to an aux channel and see if a signal can be read, but thats about as far as I can go with it.
Okay, cool, I'll keep an eye out for updates, I should have my aim dash by spring to play around myself aswell, I couldn't tell what kind of signal Actually comes through the wires, I'd like to add oil pressure and boost to the aim Dash in the end. I was worried it was like a can signal like the gauge cluster and wouldn't be able to work like the aim dash needs
I will be adding a VDO oil PSI transducer to mine as well.
I did find it at one point, I think I bookmarked it. I was a little let down with the overall list, but it's still enough to get the job done, I was just glad it was mostly plug and play. Just gotta read up on how to get the blinkers and hazard lights and all that to work aswell. I think you use the warning lights on the dash spliced in inline essentially to grab the signal when they are used? It's been a minute since I've read on it.
I dont quite remember but I think I tapped into most of the actual lighting wires to get the dash indications. The AIM is pretty easy to program.
So there are two MAP pressures available through the CAN data to the AIM. Likely should be able to get boost data off the MAP2?
Should be, map #2 is post sc I believe right? After I sell my spare goblin harness I have modified, I'll be able to pick up the aim dash and play around aswell.
I wanted to drag both laptops (one AIM and one ECM OBD spoof data) out into the garage tomorrow and finish up on my electrical harness to do list and testing, but this **** cold air box fabrication is taking much longer than thought it would.
What he said, dirty surface could easily cause issues.
Looking forward to your findings! And no doubt Fabrication is definitely a painstaking process sometimes! But it's so fulfilling when you're done.
Scrubbing the absolute hell out of it with a dedicated stainless brush and then wiping down with alcohol. Even practicing on dirty, completely unprepped metal it makes absolutely no difference. Its totally hit or miss with this thing. It seems to work fine as long as its a long run and the metal is nice & hot but for short joint runs I have to set the amperage to the edge of burning through the metal which is not worth risking destroying a project. This is obviously why most people use TIG or adhesives for smaller stuff like this.
I was thinking of trying that. I need go buy a decent torch.
Just a good "plumbers" trigger torch is fine.
Good call, man. I picked up the torch and that seems to help quite a bit.