Brian's City Goblin-06/Crate MotorTC #61

Brian74

Goblin Guru
What material did you print? I love how you integrated the zip tie channels, that's probably the cleanest application of a zip tie as I can imagine.
PLA+. I am already thinking about upgrading to a hotter direct drive extruder to run PETG.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I switched to SLA printing and I’m really loving it! Worth a look too.

Nuker-
Looks very interesting. Are you running LCD?

In your opinion, is there a particular brand/model/price range to start looking in that seems to be known for reliability and performance?
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I decided to try my hand at PETG today, as I dont feel that PLA may be suitable enough for the heat & direct sunlight here. Took me 8 tries to get the extruder temp, speed, and 1st layer height. Then took a few more test prints to get bed temps and good proper bed adhesion. Once you know what to look for, its easy; but **** it sure is time consuming…

Once I got everything tweaked, I started another LED light bracket. Its printing as I type… I also redesigned the bracket slightly for aesthetics & functionality and added a glare shield to make the light source non-visible from standing eyepoint.

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CodyP

Well-Known Member
I decided to try my hand at PETG today, as I dont feel that PLA may be suitable enough for the heat & direct sunlight here. Took me 8 tries to get the extruder temp, speed, and 1st layer height. Then took a few more test prints to get bed temps and good proper bed adhesion. Once you know what to look for, its easy; but **** it sure is time consuming…

Once I got everything tweaked, I started another LED light bracket. Its printing as I type… I also redesigned the bracket slightly for aesthetics & functionality and added a glare shield to make the light source non-visible from standing eyepoint.

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PETG is a different animal than pla for sure. Once you get it down you'll probably never go back though. I think the only real benefit to pla is the ability to easily paint it. Temp settings are higher and you don't want your part cooling fan very high if on at all, the only time I turn it on for PETG is if I have lots of overhang or gaps. If you do set your fan to turn on, make sure it doesn't turn on until it's several layers in or you can get the warp and bad adhesion. Also, make sure you wipe down your bed with rubbing alcohol or acetone between each print with a CLEAN rag. I ran out of my roll of paper towels and was foolishly using the same one to clean between prints. I started slowly having adhesion and warp issues and spent days tweaking settings getting closer and closer to no avail. After cleaning with a fresh towel all my troubles went away. On the bright side all that tweaking made my prints better than ever. Haha. I slice with Cura. If you'd like to see my PETG settings let me know and I'll send them over to you to try out.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
PETG is a different animal than pla for sure. Once you get it down you'll probably never go back though. I think the only real benefit to pla is the ability to easily paint it. Temp settings are higher and you don't want your part cooling fan very high if on at all, the only time I turn it on for PETG is if I have lots of overhang or gaps. If you do set your fan to turn on, make sure it doesn't turn on until it's several layers in or you can get the warp and bad adhesion. Also, make sure you wipe down your bed with rubbing alcohol or acetone between each print with a CLEAN rag. I ran out of my roll of paper towels and was foolishly using the same one to clean between prints. I started slowly having adhesion and warp issues and spent days tweaking settings getting closer and closer to no avail. After cleaning with a fresh towel all my troubles went away. On the bright side all that tweaking made my prints better than ever. Haha. I slice with Cura. If you'd like to see my PETG settings let me know and I'll send them over to you to try out.
I am super impressed with PETG. Once I got the 1st level settings tweaked, I was able to resolve the lifting issues by raising the bed temp. This print is just about done and it looks just as clean as my PLA print. I will do a side by side heat/stress test on both of them tomorrow.

I also think the PEI sheet metal bed is the way to go. I’ve read so many bad reviews about glass that I am surprised anyone even bothers using glass anymore.
 

CodyP

Well-Known Member
I am super impressed with PETG. Once I got the 1st level settings tweaked, I was able to resolve the lifting issues by raising the bed temp. This print is just about done and it looks just as clean as my PLA print. I will do a side by side heat/stress test on both of them tomorrow.

I also think the PEI sheet metal bed is the way to go. I’ve read so many bad reviews about glass that I am surprised anyone even bothers using glass anymore.
I have used both. I am currently using a borosilicate glass bed and I love it. That's another apples to oranges comparison. They both have pros and cons. The glass has great adhesion and once the print is done and cooled down to room temperature it just pops right off.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I have used both. I am currently using a borosilicate glass bed and I love it. That's another apples to oranges comparison. They both have pros and cons. The glass has great adhesion and once the print is done and cooled down to room temperature it just pops right off.
I looked into those; almost bought one. I was referring more to the generic glass beds most people seem to be complaining about regularly. As you said, apples to oranges. However I do like the fact that I can pull my PEI plate off and flex it slightly if needed to remove a print.

Obviously bed adhesion becomes more critical with PETG. It becomes slightly more forgiving with added texture. So many factors involved so the best I could do was research based on reviews.

I’m actually running a cheap Chinese PEI bed right now until my Ultistik shows up; just so I can compare the two in the long run.
 
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CodyP

Well-Known Member
I looked into those; almost bought one. I was referring more to the generic glass beds most people seem to be complaining about regularly. As you said, apples to oranges. However I do like the fact that I can pull my PEI plate off and flex it slightly if needed to remove a print.

Obviously bed adhesion becomes more critical with PETG. It becomes slightly more forgiving with added texture. So many factors involved so the best I could do was research based on reviews.

I’m actually running a cheap Chinese PEI bed right now until my Ultistik shows up; just so I can compare the two in the long run.
I have a couple of different ones, but the one I use the most is from Creality. This one has a "textured" surface. Almost like halftone dots. The borosilicate is great because the molecules shrink when it cools and it releases the print on its own. If you're in a hurry you can actually throw the whole glass bed still hot with the print on it in the freezer and it'll pop right off. Otherwise my prints normally finish when I'm not around and they're cooled off and released by the time I get home anyway. Temp on a glass bed needs to be about 5 degrees hotter because of the thickness and heat transfer. I think the problem people have with glass comes down to cleanliness and trying to remove a print before it's cooled off.
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Brian74

Goblin Guru
I have a couple of different ones, but the one I use the most is from Creality. This one has a "textured" surface. Almost like halftone dots. The borosilicate is great because the molecules shrink when it cools and it releases the print on its own. If you're in a hurry you can actually throw the whole glass bed still hot with the print on it in the freezer and it'll pop right off. Otherwise my prints normally finish when I'm not around and they're cooled off and released by the time I get home anyway. Temp on a glass bed needs to be about 5 degrees hotter because of the thickness and heat transfer. I think the problem people have with glass comes down to cleanliness and trying to remove a print before it's cooled off. View attachment 26361
I agree. Also likely the case with PEI beds.
 

CodyP

Well-Known Member
Today I was ambitious. Worked 10 hours straight.

Welded in the subwoofer bracket.
Installed the sub
Installed the seats
Installed the amp
Built out the dash
Installed the dash
Cut the cowlings & installed the rear speakers

Fired everything up. Wow, the stereo sounds freaking AWESOME. I will need to dynamat the firewall because the sub pounds the living hell out of it.

Have a couple very small issues on my dash harness to fix still, but everything is looking good. These new headlights are **** amazing.



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Is there any reason that you left the original hood cowl mounts and the cobalt gauge cluster mounts on the frame?
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
Is there any reason that you left the original hood cowl mounts and the cobalt gauge cluster mounts on the frame?
I bent a couple of the cluster mounts out of the way for my dash. I use the cowl mounts to confirm alignment. Haven’t really found any pressing reason to cut them off yet.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
Still messing with the 3-D printer. I’m kind of in awe. While I guess a lot of people are into printing superhero masks & trinkets and ****, I’m after the method to print the most indestructible and environmentally sound parts.

Huge learning curve between this and CAD. My end state goal is a machine that can print ASA. I’ve got several upgrades waiting, but for now, I am trying to perfect PETG; I figure if I can perfect PETG, ASA will be a walk in the park...

Last week was an ass pain trying to get calibration prints, much less my designs to print. I realized the issue was the filament had taken on too much moisture. Threw the filament in a dehydrator and then to a dry case I made.

Spent a some money on some printer upgrades, based on what I’ll need to run ASA.

This week, I started playing with nozzle sizes and layer heights. The PETG is once again printing well. I also have a few things I need to print prior to upgrading.

I also experimented with the PETG using a .8 nozzle tonight and some different layer heights. I printed out draft 6 of my courtesy light mount in .8 with .6 layers. Wow…solid and unbreakable; freaking military grade.
 

Attachments

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Look at you all fancy printing replacement parts before you need them... my stock extruder tensioner mechanism broke so I ordered a direct drive upgrade, and had to secretly print the mount you've got there on the printer at work. Would've been a lot easier to print it on my printer before it broke!

I'm curious to hear your motivations on ASA vs PETG?
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
Look at you all fancy printing replacement parts before you need them... my stock extruder tensioner mechanism broke so I ordered a direct drive upgrade, and had to secretly print the mount you've got there on the printer at work. Would've been a lot easier to print it on my printer before it broke!

I'm curious to hear your motivations on ASA vs PETG?
Yeah I figured I might as well try & make things easier on myself by having all of the parts ready early on… Plus I wanna work through the PETG with as many saved up nozzle slicer configurations as possible (sans retraction settings) so I have a baseline to start with in case I have any new issues with the direct drive extruder.

I’m going with ASA purely due to its UV and heat properties. Here in AZ, not much will survive in a car interior during the summer, to include many car interiors themselves.

Also planning on eventually building a full motion race simulator platform and I will need the strongest plastic available for building the motion actuators and a few of the other components.

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CodyP

Well-Known Member
Still messing with the 3-D printer. I’m kind of in awe. While I guess a lot of people are into printing superhero masks & trinkets and ****, I’m after the method to print the most indestructible and environmentally sound parts.

Huge learning curve between this and CAD. My end state goal is a machine that can print ASA. I’ve got several upgrades waiting, but for now, I am trying to perfect PETG; I figure if I can perfect PETG, ASA will be a walk in the park...

Last week was an ass pain trying to get calibration prints, much less my designs to print. I realized the issue was the filament had taken on too much moisture. Threw the filament in a dehydrator and then to a dry case I made.

Spent a some money on some printer upgrades, based on what I’ll need to run ASA.

This week, I started playing with nozzle sizes and layer heights. The PETG is once again printing well. I also have a few things I need to print prior to upgrading.

I also experimented with the PETG using a .8 nozzle tonight and some different layer heights. I printed out draft 6 of my courtesy light mount in .8 with .6 layers. Wow…solid and unbreakable; freaking military grade.
I ended up making a dry box that will hold 4 spools. You can also feed directly from the box without removing the spools so they always stay in the controlled environment. Here is a link to the one I made.

Do you know which hot end you're thinking of upgrading to? I went with a Dragon hotend and it's been great for everything I've done. If I had to get another and was willing to spend the money I'd probably get a mosquito.
 
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