Brian's City Goblin-06/Crate MotorTC #61

Brian74

Goblin Guru
My Aeroforce gauge wasn’t working, so I tackled that first. Had good ground, 12v, continuity to the CAN wires... Then I rung out the CAN wires... Zero ohms; where it should be 120 for bus termination.

I realized that this Saturn Vue steering module might be different. I was able to confirm on the wiring diagram that the Saturn Vue steering module isn’t even on the CAN bus but instead runs on a completely separate class 2 data bus from the BCM. I hung the Cobalt module and plugged it back in. Everything works now. I’ll have to find a 120 ohm resistor and install it later on.

I decided to work on the firewall. I got the pax side sound deadener installed. I decided to use 4mm rivnuts to bolt the firewall panels to the frame. There is no way to get a rivnut installer in a few of the outside holes, so I fabricated my own compact rivnut installer from some hardware I bought. It ended up working out really well.

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Brian74

Goblin Guru
Took a couple of weeks off my build. I have a project at work thats almost as big as the Goblin, only it has a deadline. Been a little too worn out to be motivated.

This weekend I decided to fabricate a cover for the parking brake, as it didn’t quite look finished. It also has a cupholder, which I’ve been wanting. I can actually reach it with the harness buckled and I designed it deep enough to fully secure the two cups that I regularly use. I am also working on a small console tray to go between the parking brake and shift console.

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Brian74

Goblin Guru
Current Stage 2 to do list; just updated last night. I’m sure I’m missing a few things.


Kit Car To Do Stage 2:

Electrical:
Steering wheel connector splices
Dash connector main plugs
Install + wire oil PSI sending unit
Install AIM channel module
GPS module
120 ohm CAN bus termination resistor
fog lamp relay
Install variable power steering control
AIM calibration
Wiring harness wrapped
Tunnel accessory plug
Cupholder illum (main lighting circuit)
boost sensor circuit
Parking brake sensor
Fuel sending unit pigtail
Power on CAN bus checks ECM
Power on CAN bus checks BCM

Random ****:
Dynamat tunnel
Dynamat shifter
build fuel lines
Build coolant lines
Fuel filler neck mockup
Shift linkage bracket adjustment
Parking brake lines
Resolve cockpit shift linkage routing

Fasteners:
Side panels
Driver side firewall holes tapped / rivnuts
Tunnel cover mounting/split
Cowling mounts
Suede shifter boot (wife will make)
Suede E-brake handle wrap (wife will make)
Floor panels
Seat rubber isolators?
Windshield mounts
Diagnostic connector mounts
Resolve shifter cable cockpit routing

Frame Welding:
CHMSL mount
Side panel stays
Ground lugs
Fog lamp actuators/mounts
Wire harness stays
Heat exchanger mounts
Air/liquid separator mounts
GPS/AIM module bracket
Coolant tank
Intercooler surge tank
Dead pedal? Is there room?

Steel Fabrication:
Fog lamp actuator mounts
Cupholder
Upper cold air box mount
Shoulder harness mounts
Fog lamp housings
Amp mount
Front grille
Shave cold air intake pipe flange
Parking brake mount
Intercooler surge tank mount

Aluminum Fabrication:
Side air dam
Rear wang
Coolant reservoir/bungs
Front splitter/wing?

Admin:
Full powder coating parts inventory list

Buy:
Linear actuators (5lb side load rated, 3”travel)
Fog lamps (the hella ones)
Wheels
Tires
MAF sensor
Coolant reservoir
DZUS fasteners for lower front cowling

Beer
More beer



Research:
Rear wing
Front spoiler/dam/splitter/wing
 

Jareth

Goblin Guru
I decided to work on the firewall. I got the pax side sound deadener installed. I decided to use 4mm rivnuts to bolt the firewall panels to the frame. There is no way to get a rivnut installer in a few of the outside holes, so I fabricated my own compact rivnut installer from some hardware I bought. It ended up working out really well.
I have been curious about using Rivet Nut's, has there been any issues in using them on the curved surface of the tubes?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Current Stage 2 to do list; just updated last night. I’m sure I’m missing a few things.


Kit Car To Do Stage 2:

Electrical:
Steering wheel connector splices
Dash connector main plugs
Install + wire oil PSI sending unit
Install AIM channel module
GPS module
120 ohm CAN bus termination resistor
fog lamp relay
Install variable power steering control
AIM calibration
Wiring harness wrapped
Tunnel accessory plug
Cupholder illum (main lighting circuit)
boost sensor circuit
Parking brake sensor
Fuel sending unit pigtail
Power on CAN bus checks ECM
Power on CAN bus checks BCM

Random ****:
Dynamat tunnel
Dynamat shifter
build fuel lines
Build coolant lines
Fuel filler neck mockup
Shift linkage bracket adjustment
Parking brake lines
Resolve cockpit shift linkage routing

Fasteners:
Side panels
Driver side firewall holes tapped / rivnuts
Tunnel cover mounting/split
Cowling mounts
Suede shifter boot (wife will make)
Suede E-brake handle wrap (wife will make)
Floor panels
Seat rubber isolators?
Windshield mounts
Diagnostic connector mounts
Resolve shifter cable cockpit routing

Frame Welding:
CHMSL mount
Side panel stays
Ground lugs
Fog lamp actuators/mounts
Wire harness stays
Heat exchanger mounts
Air/liquid separator mounts
GPS/AIM module bracket
Coolant tank
Intercooler surge tank
Dead pedal? Is there room?

Steel Fabrication:
Fog lamp actuator mounts
Cupholder
Upper cold air box mount
Shoulder harness mounts
Fog lamp housings
Amp mount
Front grille
Shave cold air intake pipe flange
Parking brake mount
Intercooler surge tank mount

Aluminum Fabrication:
Side air dam
Rear wang
Coolant reservoir/bungs
Front splitter/wing?

Admin:
Full powder coating parts inventory list

Buy:
Linear actuators (5lb side load rated, 3”travel)
Fog lamps (the hella ones)
Wheels
Tires
MAF sensor
Coolant reservoir
DZUS fasteners for lower front cowling

Beer
More beer



Research:
Rear wing
Front spoiler/dam/splitter/wing
Variable steering control - did you get the Saturn steering box and install it? What are the linear actuators for? I need to take a road trip soon to see all of this. :D
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
Variable steering control - did you get the Saturn steering box and install it? What are the linear actuators for? I need to take a road trip soon to see all of this. :D
Yes. Got a Vue box out of a pull your own yard for dirt cheap. Its a direct fit, other than needing to install a 120 Ohm resistor to make a new CAN bus termination.

The linear actuators are for an idea I’ve been playing with for making some hideaway fog lamps that stow inside the front cowling when not in use.

Come over before summer. I may likely tear down the mock up for powder coat by then. Could use your engineer ideas soon as well.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I have been curious about using Rivet Nut's, has there been any issues in using them on the curved surface of the tubes?
They should work fine assuming you drill the proper size hole. I had no issues with them holding inside the tubes. Make sure to use steel ones to avoid galvanic corrosion. You’ll need to either make or buy a low profile installer for the side firewall holes as there is not much clearance.

I also had to use a dremel and carbide burr to enlarge the holes as a drill bit will not fit in there either.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
Slow, mellow day today.... BUT.. I figured out an awesome new trick with this CAD program that is not even in the scope of their advanced technique tutorials.

I am now using the top down/bend view to align my sheet metal parts. It gives a nice WYSIWYG profile of the part and makes for simple corrections in bend radius, flange, and setback. There is still some math involved, and constraints need to be remembered, but the math now is 3rd grade level. Had I figured this out earlier, I would have saved hours and numerous gray hairs doing the math I avoided learning in college. Now I understand why good fab shops pay a CAD guy to do all of this stuff...

Kinda bummed I’m literally designing the last piece of cockpit sheet metal at this point, bit I’m grateful to have learned so much in the process.

The Goblin has been mostly an experiment and challenge to learn new abilities. I doubt I’ll ever part with it. Holy ***; I’ve challenged myself and learned more than I ever thought I would so far on this build!

My next proposed car (Rorty Shotgun) will have much of this Goblin build experience buillt in.

 
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Brian74

Goblin Guru
Finished the intermediate center console. Will build the parking brake and tunnel cover mount tomorrow if I don’t run out of welding gas. Also plan to get the floor panels bolted down and do a good check for subwoofer rattles.

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Brian74

Goblin Guru
Finalized the center console. Added USB port, lighting, and built the wiring harness to run everything.

Waiting on some parts to build my very last custom touch... retractable fog lamps. Aside from finalizing the wiring and some minor welding, I’m just about ready for powder coat.

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Brian74

Goblin Guru
Stepping into my next project, which will be fully actuated fog/driving lamps that will automatically hide away when not in use.

Spent 3 hours at the hardware store, where most of my brainstorming happens. Was able to find some 5/8 OD precision bearings. I decided to chamfer two pieces of 1/8” stock using a step drill bit and sandwich the bearings between them. This worked out well. The bearing ID works well with a 1/4” bolt.

Got the bearings test mounted and played with the actuator. I need about 5-6” of throw, but I think I can get that using a properly positioned 2” actuator instead of the 4” actuator.

These Denali tri-optic lights are pretty nice as well.


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Brian74

Goblin Guru
Mockup of the fog light actuator bracket... I started making frame measurements today. This will be a simple bolt-on design utilizing the U&L control arm bolts. There is adequate room for the fog lamps to tuck behind the cowling when not in use. When they are on & extended, they will locate approximately centered between the coil over & cowling; just above the lower control arm.

I will make a base frame piece and determine the lever pivot point and machine the bearing pivot. Next, I will rescale the dimensions for the actuator mount and actuator arm and machine the actuator bearing pivot points.

I am slightly concerned with the design of the lever arm and fog lamp mounting point as wind speed will stress it slightly. Will probably machine down some 1/8”x 1/2” L-bracket for better rigidity without adding too much weigh and add a lower support bracket to provide a resting stop for the actuator and additional support for the lever arm.

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Brian74

Goblin Guru
My actuated fog lamp prototype is finished. Super happy with it; they function exactly as I had planned.

These fog lights are very bright; I will use the wide diffuser lens and it should put a fair amount of light around the front. Still need to machine the actuator pivots for the precision bearings.


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