Chris’s 2007 SS/SC track frame build for autocross

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Starting to seal up the front. Plan on eventually making an engine diaper also.
 

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JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Interesting addition.
Are you thinking it will help the air flow through the radiator and heat exchanger?
Or, some added protection from road debris?
Or both?
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
It should protect components and help keep air from collecting in the front area. I have a removable plate partially blocking air from flowing directly into the radiator for now it takes so long for the coolant to come up to temperature. The intercooler fan is set to 1 in all columns in hp tuners so it comes on with the key. Will eventually make the front splitter from metal or carbon fiber sandwiched twin-wall polycarbonate.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
I have been trying to pay more attention to HPtuners and finally got my wideband to work. Here is the dyno tune file from my recent dyno session. I asked the tuner if it was ok to share and he said he didn't mind. For some reason he couldn't get the MAF to work so its all VE tuned I believe.

There was some false knock issues so im not sure if timing was pulled because of it. I later found the guide bolts stripped off the timing chain and cleaned it all up and redid the timing. No more rattling or knock from the sensors.

07 with 2.9 pully and 60lb injectors
 

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Ross

Goblin Guru
I looked at your file, compared it to a stock 07 LSJ SC.
You have MAF changes in your file, so someone put those in there... might be just left over from someone else's tune.
They turned piston protection off. Don't know why they do this, but it seems pretty standard. Guess they don't care if you blow up your engine.
With it on, the PCM can richen up the mixture if needed.

Need to see a HP Tuners log file to see how it is running.
You probably should find out what's not working for MAF, as that is the main operating mode for street use.
I have seen race engines in VE only, but it is a fall back mode for street cars that have MAF issues.
P0101, P0106 and P0121 performance test have been disabled. So it won't throw codes for MAF, MAP, and Throttle pedal.

You have about 30 OBDII codes disabled. Normal stuff like emissions, but some that I would turn back on:
P0315 - not testing crackshaft position sensor
P0480 - Fan 1 control circuit (not able to throw code - this is your engine radiator fan)
P0520 - Engine oil pressure switch Yikes! I want this on!
P1574 - Stoplamp switch circuit
P2A00 - O2 sensor circuit range
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Still trying to make a config file for the scanner to pick up all the channels . The tuner said he would give me one but he never did. Watching Goat rope videos now trying to paste over columns for a VE table and I can't seem to copy them.

Wonder if he turned them off because the pickup was blocked and the chain was flopping around? I'm surprised the motor still ran with all that junk in the oil pan and pickup. I put some serious stress on it with it like that. The Ecotec is a lot more durable than I originally thought.

Haven't looked at the codes definitely will turn back on 315,520 andA00

My Fan 1 is going to the supercharger. I have it always on and a swith on the dash to cut it off manually Fan 2 is my radiator fan.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Trying to paste the columns in a VCM Scanner custom graph? Go into the Graph Display Layout Editor, pick the graph, paste the values in the row or column.

Your Fan 2 is set to turn on at 230F, and off at 226F. (stock settings but my Goblin never gets this hot)
Your Fan 1 is set to turn on at 205F, off at 199F.... which is the exact numbers I used when I modified my fan settings for my engine radiator fan.
You wired Fan 1 straight to power, so guess it isn't using the Fan 1 settings in HP Tuners.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Yes I turn the intercooler fan on and off from the dash. I do not street drive my Goblin only autocross.

Doesn't running the engine cooler create more wear on the internals ?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
If the oil is thick and not at operating temps, then yes it does. My engine runs at 180-190F, stock. I think removing the engine bay hood, and the DF radiator does make it run cooler... my fan will turn on if I sit and idle for a long time... otherwise it never gets hot enough.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Can't seem to figure out how to get the commanded AFR to show a baseline. I already see some knock and the AFR's look way lean. Here is a short log haven't got the VE tables to populate yet.....

Need to see a HP Tuners log file to see how it is running.
 

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Ross

Goblin Guru
I see your air-fuel ratio commanded (lo res). Started the log at 14.0:1 slowly went up to 14.7:1
Looks like you get knock when you throttle up.
You got real lean (18.5:1) before the RPM went up.
I see VE errors table populated... but its using the AFR Error [Math] parameter that I am not familiar with. Normally I make a Math-User with a custom % error calculation, using the
(("MPVI2.1 -> PLX" - "air-fuel ratio commanded (lo res)")/"air-fuel ratio commanded (lo res)" )*100.

14560
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
I did not have that math setup. I was able to create it. Do I apply it to my graph for speed density as the math ? I'm still not getting a population on the speed density table, must still be missing something somewhere...
 

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Ross

Goblin Guru
The math setup should use your wideband AFR and the commanded AFR to get a % error.
Does your car have a stock wideband? I see log numbers that look your wideband in the parameters as "MPVI2.1 -> PLX" and again as "MPVI2.2 -> PLX", but when I search for that name to use in Maths - User formula, I can't find it.
Do you have an MPVI2 Pro? Are you getting your wideband info thru the CAN bus, or thru a serial port, or one of the extra MPVI2 Pro channels? (I use serial, as 2006 didn't have CAN bus)

In this image I tried "ID 31070 PLX iMFD - Eq Ratio [external input]" hoping that that was your wideband, but no, it didn't populate. :(
14573


My wideband Maths-User looks like this:
14575


That %error can be plotted with the same axis as the MAF table (as in the image above), or the Main VE table, or your fuel injector table... basically any table.
Once the %error is plotted (graphed) the same as your Main VE table, you can apply it (paste special, multiply by %) or multiply by half %.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
The math setup should use your wideband AFR and the commanded AFR to get a % error.
Does your car have a stock wideband?

I still have the stock o2 sensor and downstream from that is where I put the PLX (SM-AFR-WBM)

I see log numbers that look your wideband in the parameters as "MPVI2.1 -> PLX" and again as "MPVI2.2 -> PLX", but when I search for that name to use in Maths - User formula, I can't find it.

I have both populated in channels and somehow both are reporting from my PLX wideband. Can you find them if the scanner cannot physically see them ? Seemed to me some of the channels couldn’t be added unless I was connected to them.

Do you have an MPVI2 Pro? Are you getting your wideband info thru the CAN bus, or thru a serial port, or one of the extra MPVI2 Pro channels? (I use serial, as 2006 didn't have CAN bus)

Yes I have the pro it picks up off a USB from the pro and a serial connection to the PLX controller that the o2 connects to.


I was able to find a config file from the tuning school. It looks like all of my information is popping up. It’s the GM Level 1 config file. Still haven’t had enough free time to devote to this but I’m hopeful next weekend I will have more time. There is another autocross this Weekend.

 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
The catch can was 26$ The one for my corvette was about 160$ I will have to read up on the oil separator when I get a chance.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
A trick to do with the eBay catch can is the baffle inside can be made much more effective by putting a very loose ball of very course stainless steel wool inside the the cavity. It is almost as effective as any oil separator and is cheap. ;)
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
A trick to do with the eBay catch can is the baffle inside can be made much more effective by putting a very loose ball of very course stainless steel wool inside the the cavity. It is almost as effective as any oil separator and is cheap. ;)
That's what that steel wool was for !
 
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