Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Sounds like good deal. Hope the person selling didn't drop a '1' off the front of the milage. Hopefully this will be a quick swapping of parts and you are on the road again.
Motor looks very clean inside.Sounds like good deal. Hope the person selling didn't drop a '1' off the front of the milage. Hopefully this will be a quick swapping of parts and you are on the road again.
The top links are 8" from eye to eye. Watched a lot of videos on roll center , if your going to fabricate a new subframe I would consider ditching the stock lower control arm, raising the inner pickup point (LCA) and getting rid of the toe link (like DF will do). It was really difficult to get the rear to line up and not bumpsteer. I experimented with lasers, ride height, shock mounting locations and suspension travel range. Keep in mind I NEVER drive my Goblin on the road and the first autocross the car was undrivable, it would be extremely dangerous to make changes like I did to a road car.Do me a favor, how long is your upper link, eye to eye, on the new rear suspension?
I've been doing too much thinking, measuring and sketching for my own good lately. I have been looking at replacing the Cobalt subframe and going with a completely different rear suspension. It is still just an idea, somewhat on paper, but not at the sharing stage yet. What I have in mind is less weight, same stiffness (or better) and will be completely flat with the rest of the forward frame. Dang, who talked me into building a Goblin!
That's it ! post 300 in your build. Right between the crankshaft position sensor and knock sensor. Did you remove your oil cooler and relocate your oil pressure switch.My LSJ has an oil switch - below ~20psi, the dash oil light turns on.
I wonder if the Saab b207r had an oil pressure sensor & gauge?
I pulled the plug out of my LSJ block so I can put an oil sensor in it.
I left the oil switch and dash idiot light. I didn't see any reason to remove it.That's it ! post 300 in your build. Right between the crankshaft position sensor and knock sensor. Did you remove your oil cooler and relocate your oil pressure switch.
That is great information. Thanks. It is closer to the turbo, and is already proven.Not sure if its helps but both the ZZP turbo kit and the b207r use the leftmost plug behind the coolant crossover pipe for turbo oil supply.
I lined the slotted seal up with the stock balancer and marked the keyway with a carpenters pencil. The ATI balancer was very tight, I was able to wiggle and tap it far enough with my palm to use the stock balancer and draw it in. The easiest way I can think is to get a bolt about an inch longer than stock and use that to draw it in or get a cheap kit like this : Performance Tool Harmonic Balancer Installer Set, Model# W89710 | Northern ToolAny issues/tips with the balancer install?