Chris’s 2007 SS/SC track frame build for autocross

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Mine has about 10 1/2 rotations (looks to be the same brand as yours). I started at full open and ended up at about 7 turns open. After I still locked up the fronts once at Autocross last weekend, I’ll probably go 1 more turn out and see how that feels. It’s all going to depend on how you like it.
I think I need to redo the flares, have a small leak on the output side. Seems like the m10 nut goes all the way in. Should it be a bubble flare ?
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
The master cylinder is double flare or also called standard flare. Everywhere else is a bubble flare. 2 different flaring tools needed. They also have 2 different nuts.

And you did buy the metric prop valve? They make them both ways and look identical.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
The master cylinder is double flare or also called standard flare. Everywhere else is a bubble flare. 2 different flaring tools needed. They also have 2 different nuts.

And you did buy the metric prop valve? They make them both ways and look identical.
Lol more money to spend !

Yes its an m10x1 I noticed that when
opening the brake tube kit that was sae....
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Relocated my battery and ground mostly due to wiring in a shutoff switch. This opened up some space and will able to fully disconnect the battery and not worry about drainage.

E-mod rules look like a master shutoff was added if your not running DOT approved tires. Having the switch also allows me to run whatever cheap takeoffs I can get.

Purchased a battery relocate kit ran a 2g wire to the starter and took the alternator wire off the starter. Now the alternator runs directly to the pos battery post via another 2g wire that feeds to one side of the shutoff switch and the other goes back to the starter and power steering.
 

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ccannx

Goblin Guru
Got the car out to a a local practice this Saturday to do a shakedown. Got 1 good run in and on my second run heard a loud bang then loss of power. Was able to drive the car back to the trailer with a ticking noise. Gear oil was seeping out and found a large chunk of the pressure plate.

Somehow part of the pressure plate came off broke the starter, destroyed the aluminum flywheel and managed to knock a hole in the new f35 transmission.
 

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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I knew this is why a lot of race organizations required an approved steel bell housing, but this is the first time I've actually seen damage.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Looks like one of the fulcrum tabs broke off. I thought pressure plates usually crack or break. Got the new starter in yesterday and pulled the flywheel. New oem flywheel bolts pressure plate bolts and the act flywheel comes with new bolts also are on the way. Don't know if I trust this aluminum flywheel after it's been all scratched up.
 

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Rttoys

Goblin Guru
What do you think caused the break? Too much power? Weak component? just a failed part that probably shouldn’t have?
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
What do you think caused the break? Too much power? Weak component? just a failed part that probably shouldn’t have?
Half a small bolt fell out when I cracked the case off the block. Best I can guess it got between the friction surface and pressure plate. Never too much power ! it should just slip in that situation.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Good news ! The Amazon remote bleeder ordered fits , this will make purging the air out of the throw out bearing much easier.
Got a link to this part? It would've been pretty clutch (get it?) before I installed the trans and bled the slave but for the right price I might go ahead and throw it in the car anyway. I remember putting my engine/trans back together and thinking there was no way I'd put the clutch hydraulics back together correctly because how could you EVER bleed the clutch with the bleeder tucked away like it is... but from the condition of the brake fluid that came out of my donor, the answer was probably just "don't bleed it".
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Got a link to this part? It would've been pretty clutch (get it?) before I installed the trans and bled the slave but for the right price I might go ahead and throw it in the car anyway. I remember putting my engine/trans back together and thinking there was no way I'd put the clutch hydraulics back together correctly because how could you EVER bleed the clutch with the bleeder tucked away like it is... but from the condition of the brake fluid that came out of my donor, the answer was probably just "don't bleed it".
Here you go !

 
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