Chris_WNC's Track Frame #338 '09 LT Auto. REGISTERED in NC.

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
That’s a crank/cam correlation problem. Cam timing could be wrong (off a tooth, something jumped, worn chain, etc), it could be wiring or could just need a crank/cam recalibration via tech2, but it has to be running somewhat properly to do that.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
I've not had personal experience on an Ecotec but I've read that it can be extremely challenging to set timing if you're thinking you can spin the motor until everything lines up (or worse, gets as close as it's going to, which is not close enough). Lonny touched on that here.
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
Hey guys. Long time, no see. lol.

I've spent several hours over the past couple of days chasing down the P0016 code. I re-did the timing chains again making sure all marked links were in proper spaces. I've swapped cam and crank sensors. I pulled the engine harness and verified connections. I've verified ECU and fuse multi-plug wiring. No luck still. Solid and strong crank but no run. I'm still pulling the P0016 code.

I've pretty much decided that there is something that doesn't jive mechanically with this long block and the OEM electronics. Gotta be something with the crank in the LDK not syncing with the LAP sensors. Dang it. This coming weekend I'll get the original donor's long block cleaned up and try using that again. I still want to use the turbo so that'll be on the exhaust side. I'm hoping to at least get it cranked so I can start moving on to the next steps.

My work shop is sort of set up so that I can work in it now. I've been knocking out wiring and organizing projects during my free time. The Goblin has been on the back burner for a few months. Not anymore. My other projects have died down and I can start wrenching on the smurf blue Goblin again!

CHRIS
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
Well on my way to swap the old donor engine in. I'm using my two post lift for the first time. It's awesome! After getting the CV axles and suspension stuff out of the way I was able to lower the subframe down onto a couple of furniture dollies with blocks of wood on them.

Some wires and hoses were disconnected and I was able to lift the chassis up off of the subframe leaving it on the dollies.

Then roll the dolly with drivetrain out from under the lift.

I used an engine hoist to take the engine off of the transaxle and subframe.

Then I did this. Getting ready to bolt the important stuff back on the donor block. I'll do that tomorrow.

In summary. The lift is awesome!
CHRIS
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
While neither block is in the car, any chance you could peek at the reluctors on both crankshafts to see if there's any possibility they're different? I wouldn't expect them to be, but that's about the only thing that I can think of that easily explains your issues. For reference, my understanding is the missing tooth is in a different position relative to #1 TDC between an LNF and LSJ, and the LSJ reluctor is slightly smaller in diameter. I'm not sure you could even tell that visually with the crank in the block, though.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
If your engine has direct injectors, I wonder if it would start? Breathing in thru the exhaust pipe, and exhaling out the air filter. Doubt the plastic intake would last long.
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
Moving along again. I did a fluid and filter change on the auto trans today. Messy job. I'm really enjoying my lift though!




The fluid was very dark. It was probably time for a change. The pan was dinged up from the previous owner's excellent driving. I had to tweak it a little bit to get it flat again. Probably why I had a very slow weeping leak around the pan. It's gonna set a few days. I'll be able to see if the leak stopped or not by then.

I'm moving on to the brakes next. This will be my first time bleeding brakes. Need to get my son out to help with this one.
CHRIS
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
No ATF fluid leak now. Finally got a win! lol.

Moved on to the brakes. Going at it solo with a hand pump sucks. I was able to get a lot of air and eventually fluid at all four corners. I discovered a leaky connector at the front passenger side. I think I have it taken care of.

I'm going over the tunnel cover, shifter mount and wiring now. I wasn't getting brake pedal/shift solenoid activation and I noticed that I had a ground from the shifter plug not hooked to anything. That was the problem. I also rerouted some of the shifter wires to clean it up. I think I'll have to extend the body side of the wires some too. It'll be very tight without doing that.

@Corgithulhu I brought a buddy out to the property/shop today. Shorty had fun.

CHRIS
 

Corgithulhu

Well-Known Member
I actually am very jealous you are building yours on a lift like that. Even though the car isn't heavy, it probably came in handy for buttoning up the lines and electronics in the tunnel. Also nice to work on a lot of things at chest or eye level instead of the ground.
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
The lift is awesome. You are right about being able to bring it up to chest level to work. Very convenient! I need one of those fluid drain pans on stilts now. Lol.

CHRIS
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
Moving on to lights. I mounted up my frog eyes the other day. Temporarily wired up the headlights and tail lights to test function and my wiring. All worked with the blinkers having the hyperflash because of the LEDs. I already bought some of the resistors mentioned in other builds and connected them at all four corners and it took care of the wicked quick flashing. I want to put the resistors near the BCM at the foot well like @Karter2026 did on his car.

Today I started tidying up the light wiring. I added some 5-wire waterproof flat plugs in line with the headlights so I can swap them out if needed. I used the same light pod setup that many of you guys did. Boy, I did a lot of soldering today. :D
My workstation.

The backside of the pods all finished up. You can see the 1" square tube that I used for a pod mount.

I also mounted up some Amazon sourced tube mounted UTV mirrors instead of the normal crotch rocket mirrors. I like the metal clamp and body on these. I may have them powder coated to match the body. Most likely will.





On to the rear lights. These functioned electrically the other day. I drew up a bolt on adapter for them. I laser cut it out of 1/4" baltic birch as a working prototype. I left it a little long at the bottom for when I add backup lights later. The lights are some motorcycle tail lights..from Amazon too. Cheap. The "smokiness" of the lights are different from each other. lol. 0/5 do not recommend. They'll do for now though.


I'll tackle the rear wiring tomorrow, using the same type of waterproof plugs that I used in the front. I hope to get the resistors mounted all up too.

These tail lights are probably getting swapped out in the near future. I keep the wooden bracket on there until I find a rear light that I like.

CHRIS
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I drew up a temp button panel to try out. My reveal at the top mount point isn't perfect but it will do. :D I laser cut it out of 1/4" birch too. Resistors are going to be delivered tomorrow. A latching 16 mm switch for the hazard lights is en-route as well.


The cheapy Amazon rock lights are here too. I'm going to be using them as backup lights. I modified that light plate to fit them.

All three of those pieces are going to fit on a nice piece of .120" stainless steel scrap that I set aside at work. I'll get them cut out of metal soon.

On a side note...I have a DIY built oven that I used to coat gun part with. The shop that I work at bought a powder coating setup that hasn't been used yet. I need to borrow it and start coating some of these parts.:)

CHRIS
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I cut the stainless button panel and rear light mounts this week. They are installed now. The door ajar button isn't hooked up yet. I'll do that late on.





CHRIS
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
Also this week:
I taped up the side panels to see how they are going to look. I think it's going to work out well.



I did another mod where I moved the steering column mounting position 1.5" forward. It gives me just a little bit more room when seated. I cut some drill "guide" out of steel sheet and bolted them up to the factory holes. Then drilled out 3/8" for the mounting bolts. Just had to slide the column forward on the collapsible shaft that 1.5" and bolt it up in the newly drilled holes.



I mounted the center tunnel cover too. I used M4 screws and washer like several of you guys did. That let me move on to mounting the seats and belts. I wasn't happy with my first seat mounts so I cut a couple new ones. These turned out better...smoother edges. I didn't have the laser dialed in on my first attempt. I have both seats and belt sets mounted. Cockpit is mostly done now.


Gotta come up with something for the floor now. I like the stick on grip tape idea or a thicker rubber backed mat of some sort.

I'm going to tackle a rough alignment next. Tires are sitting all wonky now.

CHRIS
 
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