Chris_WNC's Track Frame #338 '09 LT Auto. REGISTERED in NC.

Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I snuck up to the paint shop last week to have him look at the fiberglass. Dropped parts off on Friday. Picked them up today after lunch.
The side panels were off for these quick pictures.


I ditched the Nardo after seeing the paint sample in the PPG book. This is a Subaru metallic bronze that has more of a grey tone to it than brown. It's fairly close to the gunmetal type metallic on the rims. Close enough for me. I chopped the back lip off of the engine covers last week before I dropped them off. Didn't have time to throw them on for pictures today. I'm going to rivnut the side panels on. I have the crimper already. Amazon is dropping off the 10-24 rivnuts and BHCS's tomorrow. Sounds like a weekend project!

We're running a huge job of knife blanks for a custom knife maker at work on the big fiber laser. I had some free time between exchanges and started drawing up the bottom contour of the windscreen. Getting close! I'll be able to cut replacements or custom shapes as I need now.


Jeff Terry from one of the FB pages contacted me and discussed tire pressures. I dropped all four down to 20 psi as a starting pressure. I'm going to go after the alignment this week after my 20 hours are up at the laser shop. My front camber is way off.

There's another NC guy on IG that is going through the registration process. He's posting updates as he goes along. I will be starting my registration process very soon. Just want to verify I have all my inspection requirements before I initiate with the State.

CHRIS
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
Almost ready to start registration. I'm going to add a third brake light and tag mount/light this week. I've ordered some more Amazon stuff. Hope it'll work long enough for an inspection. lol.

Today's projects.
Windscreen mounted. I may have to remove it for the inspection. I'm not going to do a wiper setup.


I fitted and marked and drilled and crimped in riv nuts and drilled out panel holes and got those dang sides mounted up. :rolleyes: The pre drilled hole at the upright behind the cockpit was directly on a weld for both sides. I couldn't cheat the panel back or forth any or it would be off of the front tube behind the suspension. I just drilled new holes forward on the upper tube. I'm going to use some 3M VHB tape on the main tubes after I get my alignment done. But right now they are on.

Some outside pics of it...ALMOST...done.





I fit some of that Amazon mesh to the front radiator opening. This stuff is similar to the mesh that I got for my Porsche. I paid a lot less for the Amazon stuff!


I wanted to show my engine covers. I took some advice from the FB group and chopped off that rear tail. I enlarged all of the mounting holes and had my paint guy round off the edges before he painted these. They work well now and the rounding off took care of the horrible "split" line down the middle of the panels. I can install them with the seats mounted with no issues. No paint or powder coat scrapes either. Amazing.


CHRIS
 
OptimizePrime

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
Yea you did a great job on the cover, love the gray color choice too! I also liked what you did with your sideview mirrors, you getting your turn signal just from the headlights?
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
Yes. The halo on those lights are a very annoying and bright “amber”. More of an orange sherbet really. :D I’ve got them wired as front turn signals.
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I drew up, cut, and bent a mount for the third brake light. I ended up coating it in aerosol bed liner. It mounts on the two center tabs at the rear of the engine covers. It goes under the fiberglass and uses the provided 1/4-20 bolts that came in the hardware kit.




I also finished up installing the e-brake today. A note for everyone. My donor car was a bare bones 4 door sedan with rear drums. The brake cables would NOT work with the rear disks that DFKC provided. I ordered the cheap replacements that were recommended from Rock Auto and they fit perfectly.

The cab is looking sparce but good.:D


Tag mount with light and floor grip tape is the next project. My Amazon LEDs and skateboard tape showed up today.

CHRIS
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
9" skateboard grip tape going in. I'm going to have a little extra.


I can't get this side of the rear below -1.2 degrees of camber. I read somewhere on here that -0.5 was a good setting for really wide tires. Is the accepted procedure to gain more adjustment to modify the through holes on the strut body?



CHRIS
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I had to do both camber bolts and a little bit of grinding and I still didn't quite get to .5 degrees. I'm think about redoing mine with the rear end raised up slightly to se if I can take a little camber out.
 
Rttoys

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
That’s a lot of extra grip tape :oops:

I’m sitting at -1.2ish each side for the rear and it seems to work well for street and track. Only running -.5 to -.8 or so in front camber though.

I used the adjustable camber bolts to get some adjustment, but it doesn’t do much and at autocross they kept moving. I ended up cranking to bolts so tight I thought they would pop. I ended up going back with stock strut bolts used what very little movement I could get, to basically equal each side at -1.2. The “correct” way to adjust is to grind the strut housing, where you are talking about.
 
Joebob

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Another option could be to open up the holes on the top strut mount. You have 3 bolts and a longer moment arm to resist shifting. My calculations are a 1/4" shift (drill out each hole an 1/8" more) should net a 0.6 degree change in camber and much better access to change later. On a side note, I have not done this and I have 1.2-1.5 degree camber in the rear and ok with it but don't autocross.

32149
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Dale E had a conversation with some ideas to modify the the top mount to make it more adjustable, but I never really followed up on anything. If I had easy access to the Equipment I think I would make some sort of slotted hole for the top coilover mount hole that had different inserts to allow gross adjustment of the camber and then use the slot in the coilover for fine adjustments. The inserts would allow for locking everything down without being able to shift.
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
State inspector guys came back out today to put my NC issued VIN stickers on the chassis.:D

I can move forward with titling now. Need 2x appraisals on letterhead, indemnity bond, insurance, and a few forms filled out. I think one of those forms needs to be notarized.

Just a quick note. This whole thing was mostly just a “theft” inspection for me. They didn’t look at the other stuff. Headlights, blinkers, horn, brake lights, seat belts… :p

CHRIS
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
It’s been a few weeks now.

Had some insurance issues. Hagerty approved a policy then cancelled it the next day. My farm bureau guy couldn’t find an underwriter in their network to insure the Goblin. One of the “we’ll insure almost anybody” shops in town found his old login with Grundy and we went through the motions with them. They appear to be playing along. I sent my check and signed paperwork in to them. I guess I’ll find out next week.
Other paperwork required by NC has been completed. Surety bond, two appraisals, a couple of affidavits.

I’m standing by now for proof of insurance and I can head to the tag office and start title paperwork and hopefully get my tag.

CHRIS
 
W

WarmPepsi

Active Member
I finally got my paperwork from State Farm today; they raised the premium on what I was quoted; but for now I’ll shut up and drive it. I’m amazed they’d offer full coverage on it at all; regardless of price.
 
Chris_WNC

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
Both of the local guys said that I could get a liability only policy with minimum coverage with anyone, but it’d be about $500 a year. They’ve been trying for low driving mile collector stuff to save me a couple hundred.
 
W

WarmPepsi

Active Member
Chris_WNC said:
Both of the local guys said that I could get a liability only policy with minimum coverage with anyone, but it’d be about $500 a year. They’ve been trying for low driving mile collector stuff to save me a couple hundred.
Click to expand...
That’s crazy unless your record is well, crazy. Mine is around $100 a half for minimum, and went from $250 to $320 something after their “review”.
No accidents in at least 10 years and no tickets.
 
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