Coolant hose alternative

[Torchandregdoc]

Do elevator bolts come in a high enough hardness grade?
Edit: the largest diameter I can find is 3/8 a nd these are not graded?

McMaster has 1/2", but only 3" long. And yes, I question the strength as well, but I do believe they are in shear so they are probably OK. I think I would do some type of a weld insert before I used elevator bolts. Truthfully, there's not enough clearance there for me to continue with the AN 20 straight. Still would like to see a 30 degree fitting, but I don't want to buy another one just to find out.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I'm still contemplating what to do myself. The simple thing is to use the supplied black hose, but why do something simple when it can be made mo' betta!

 

[Ross]

Skip the whole subframe bolt issue.
Since you are getting someone to weld for you...
Maybe it would be easier to weld shut the end of the pipe (the yellow line)
then drill a new 1.5" hole in the side of the frame, and weld a new pipe (red) in the inside of the frame, with your AN fitting on it.

 

[Briann1177]

Dumb question, but how do you drill a 1-1/2" hole into a tube that is maybe a hair bigger than that without drastically weakening said tube?

I know I'm missing something in what you're saying so I apologize in advance.

 

[Ross]

The hole would weaken the frame, but once the new pipe is welded in place, the strength would be back.

 

[Fozda]

Skip the whole subframe bolt issue.
Since you are getting someone to weld for you...
Maybe it would be easier to weld shut the end of the pipe (the yellow line)
then drill a new 1.5" hole in the side of the frame, and weld a new pipe (red) in the inside of the frame, with your AN fitting on it.

Now we're cooking with fire!

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The 1.5 inch tube is the critical structure to mount the front corners of the drivetrain subframe. Theoretically welding another 1.5 inch tube will give back some rigidity to the main tube but not 100%. I would bounce this idea off Lonny first before cutting up the main structure of the frame.

 

[Torchandregdoc]

I did a little more work on this part of the project last night.

I turned down a 1"pipe coupler with the thought that I could keep it short by turning it down and sliding 1/4" or so into the lower frame tube.


I knew that the step was very thin but figured it would help with alignment and give a couple more threads to seal. Started to clean the face up and...


It was thinner than I thought.

Didn't quite work out like I thought it would, but I think it still works. A 1"NPT x 1-1/4 Barb will be easily removed to prevent damage during motor install and will have plenty of clearance after install.

 

[Briann1177]

I like the idea of the hose barb route as opposed to the AN route. You planning on going NPT-to-barb on all four corners?

 

[Fozda]

I like the idea of the hose barb route as opposed to the AN route. You planning on going NPT-to-barb on all four corners?

I prefer AN over NPT cause they seal so much easier and less to prone to leakage. You could just run an AN to Hose barb fitting if you didn't want to use braided AN lines.

 

[Torchandregdoc]

Like this?

 

[Torchandregdoc]

I like the idea of the hose barb route as opposed to the AN route. You planning on going NPT-to-barb on all four corners?

I already have the an to hose fittings, so I will probably put them in the front.

There's still a chance I will go with AN in the back as well, but just seams like a lot more hassle because we have to modify the subframe as well.

I'm still very open to ideas.

 

[Ross]

I already have the an to hose fittings, so I will probably put them in the front.

There's still a chance I will go with AN in the back as well, but just seams like a lot more hassle because we have to modify the subframe as well.

I'm still very open to ideas.

The Chevy subframe has a tube inside it that could be threaded, or cut out and a nut welded in its place.

 

[gofast]

I just purchased a piece of 1" black pipe and I plan to machine hose barbs with a lathe that will be welded in place. The pipe OD is .010" or so larger than the tube ID so not much needs to be removed. I thought I'd turn down just enough of the pipe to insert 1/2" into the tube. I'll then machine a suitable barb to fit the hose on the other end of the piece of pipe. Before I move ahead with this, does anyone see any problems I'm overlooking?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Diagram or picture? Helps to visualize what you are describing.

 

[Ross]

I just purchased a piece of 1" black pipe and I plan to machine hose barbs with a lathe that will be welded in place. The pipe OD is .010" or so larger than the tube ID so not much needs to be removed. I thought I'd turn down just enough of the pipe to insert 1/2" into the tube. I'll then machine a suitable barb to fit the hose on the other end of the piece of pipe. Before I move ahead with this, does anyone see any problems I'm overlooking?

After it is welded in place, you basically have added a hose barb to the end of the frame instead of an AN fitting?
You will still have to be careful to not interfere with the subframe bolt, which means a short barb, with a hose clamp.
Or weld the nut into the subframe like I mentioned above, and then you can have a normal length barb.

 

[gofast]

I know this is pathetic, but images are a problem for me. My camera doesn't like my new computer program and for some reason I can't email pictures from my phone. Add to that my stupidity of electronic devices and you have... a pathetic situation. I am able to text pictures. Just picture hose barbs welded to the frame in the four places where the rubber hoses come out. The hoses from the radiator and engine will be connected to these barbs.

 

[Ross]

I know this is pathetic, but images are a problem for me. My camera doesn't like my new computer program and for some reason I can't email pictures from my phone. Add to that my stupidity of electronic devices and you have... a pathetic situation. I am able to text pictures. Just picture hose barbs welded to the frame in the four places where the rubber hoses come out. The hoses from the radiator and engine will be connected to these barbs.

And how are you going to get around the subframe bolt that wants to occupy the same space as your hose barbs?

 

[gofast]

My reason for not running the hoses through the frame is I am planning some changes that will require some frame welding. I'll need the car assembled to get the welding correct. After all of the changes are made and I'm certain everything is right, the car will be disassembled and the frame powder coated.

 

[gofast]

I've been looking at pictures of the hoses and didn't notice any interference. I still have just a bare frame yet. Is there a picture of the subframe bolt somewhere that would show me the interference? Thanks for pointing this out, that's why I asked