Coolant hose alternative

Fozda

Fozda

Goblin Guru
Has anyone considered using the frame rail tubes as the method of fluid transfer by welding fittings onto the end instead of pulling hoses through them? I can't think of any reason this wouldn't work but I'm sure someone has already thought of this and reasons why it wouldn't. I know the frame will get a bit hot with the hot water flowing through it but you could always put some heat wrap or shields in the problem areas. This method should also help with cooling a bit.
 
Karter2026

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
Fozda said:
Has anyone considered using the frame rail tubes as the method of fluid transfer by welding fittings onto the end instead of pulling hoses through them? I can't think of any reason this wouldn't work but I'm sure someone has already thought of this and reasons why it wouldn't. I know the frame will get a bit hot with the hot water flowing through it but you could always put some heat wrap or shields in the problem areas. This method should also help with cooling a bit.
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I did consider that while building. Biggest concern was rust in the tubes. And the heat, I did / do not need my clutch foot getting any hotter.
 
Fozda

Fozda

Goblin Guru
I wouldn't be worried about rust since coolant protects from it but I'm not sure how close the clutch pedal is to that frame rail since I don't have my kit yet. Is the driver's side the feed or the return side?
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
A possible pin hole burn through from the welding of all the other members to it????
Maybe a pressure test to see if it is sealed?
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
If the frame tube will be used, there are coatings that could applied to the inside of the tube to prohibit rusting of the steel. Ensuring 100% coverage would be a challenge though, especially after capping off the ends of the tubes. Not sure I remember reading if anyone has done this yet, but would be interesting to see it done.
 
Dale E

Dale E

Well-Known Member
In the 1960's era, Lotus 23 used the frame rail for coolant, and some of the formula racers.
 
Torchandregdoc

Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
I was wondering about this a few w weeks ago. I'm building with a cheap paint job on my frame until I am ready to powder coat, but my concern was that if the coolant hose is in the frame, it will need to be removed to cure powder.

I'm thinking something like this.
Screenshot_20200329-224259_Samsung Notes.jpg


Another concern would be expansion and contraction of the lower frame rail only. I'm not sure what the forces would be there.
 
Karter2026

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
DCMoney said:
KLM did stainless braided lines inside the tubes instead of pulling the rubber hose, looks really clean.

dfkitcar.com

Ken Leiker MotorSports // Track // 07 SS/SC Donor

I'm itching to see how the fitment is with the axles. Just got my F40 kit in yesterday, but still a long ways behind where you're at! Post some pics in your build log!
dfkitcar.com dfkitcar.com
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I like that idea if my hoses ever have to come out that will be the replacement
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Did I see someone on the forum using 1 inch silicon (blue) hose in place of the standard radiator hose? The silicon hose is slightly smaller diameter than the rubber hose and may be easier to install (or remove). I would be concerned with removing the rubber radiator hose, since the tire wet will be dried out and attempting pull an already difficult to install hose out of the frame tube. Just saying. :confused:
 
Fozda

Fozda

Goblin Guru
One of my biggest concerns with pulling that hose through was that I'd never be able to get it out.
 
Karter2026

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
Torchandregdoc said:
Thats what I planned on doing on this first build. I'm a little concerned that there isn't enough room in the tunnel though.
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It will be very tight. Are you going to run the DF heat exchanger?

Here is a picture of my tunnel as of now it has the Harness, Battery cable, boost gauge hose, 2 - 3/4' pex tubes for the heat exchanger, wire for HE pump. I still have to run the wire for the AFR gauge in there.
IMG_20200331_071003.jpg
 
MisterDave

MisterDave

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking of giving the stainless braided lines a try. I'm hoping the slightly smaller inside diameter will be ok. Rather than the 1" of the rubber hose it will be 0.88" inside diameter in the stainless braided lines .
 
D

duanew1

Member
Fozda said:
According to my google search, PEX is only rated for about 180-200 degrees. That's not going to work. lol
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Not saying it will work, but with the low pressures that are in the radiator it could work. Probably better on a normally aspirated engine that makes less heat. Maybe there is something better.
 
Waterdriver

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
Fozda said:
According to my google search, PEX is only rated for about 180-200 degrees. That's not going to work. lol
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Use the supplied rubber coolant lines. PEX in the picture is for the intercooler heatexchanger. If your running an intercooler, locate the heatexchanger somewhere aft instead.
 
Torchandregdoc

Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
Waterdriver said:
Use the supplied rubber coolant lines. PEX in the picture is for the intercooler heatexchanger. If your running an intercooler, locate the heatexchanger somewhere aft instead.
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I'm planning on running 2 intercooler heat exchangers. Both with fans. A primary in the engine bay to dish a bunch of BTU's with fairly high temp differentials and then forward to the stock DF exchanger to get closer to ambient.

I think where he was going, is that you could maybe move all cooling hoses, both intercooler and engine to the tunnel.

Sorry for the high jacking.
 
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