ctuinstra's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor **Licensed**

ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Well got the credits and now HP Tuners is working good for me. First thing I did is set the Torque Reduction back to default. It completely took care of the incredibly over-sensitive throttle! But a bit too much and softened first gear a bit too much, so I tuned the map and then smoothed it out. Took it for a test ride tonight and you would not believe the difference in how it drives. It is so much more fun now that you don't have to spend much of your concentration on making sure you don't end up in a perpetual on/off jerking throttle motion. It's just smooth now. There is a little on/off between the engine braking and the throttle as it should be.

I also killed the MIL for the emission DTC codes but kept all the others intact. Cleared the DTC and no more engine light! After the ride I have a hidden P0172 which is too rich. That might be the large injectors at idle. I'm going to set up a scan soon to see if that is when it happens. Also have more plans for the idle, that's my next big project.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
After the HP Tuners fiasco, it finally was able to write a tune back the car and has been working fine for some time now. However, it has been known to backfire every now and again after letting off the throttle (decel pop). I attribute this to being very rich. I notice in the HP Scanner, that the LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) is constantly taking fuel (-20). I also noticed that my fuel pressure is around 80psi instead of the expected 50 or so. This can cause the injectors to spray much more fuel than expected. So as a test, I changed the fuel flow rate vs battery voltage from 1.0 to 1.1 to show the computer that they flow at a factor higher than normal. On multiple test rides today, no backfire. I still need to do a scan to see where it's at exactly and tune more from there. However, I'm still having issues again with it taking a tune, it wants to time-out in the middle. It took about 10 tries today to get a tune back on it. So I'm shipping the tuner back to HP Tuners to have them check it out. This just isn't right having all these issues with it writing a calibration.

Slowly we are getting many little things dialed in and running and driving much better!
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
On another note, the TOYO Proxies R888 are not lasting very long. We are not doing burnouts or anything. The tread wear indicators are now flush with the tread at about 3000 miles on the rear. We rotate the tires already, yes at 3000 miles! Hoping to get at least 6000 miles out of the set. Next time I think I will go with something more street-able and keep these for the track.
 
TheNuker

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Wow you must be burning some rubber :p I have about 7700 miles on these rears and they have a bit left. Toyo R888Rs

Fronts are very good I'd say over 60% left.

Nuker-

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ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
While out of a drive today, I stopped by the local scrap yard and asked if they would charge anything to weigh a car. He, in a rather I-guess-not voice, said that he wouldn't. After he seen the car on the scale, the tone of voice changed quickly. He was all into seeing what the car weighed and asked me all about it. I could see he now knew why I wanted to just weigh a car.

After subtracting my fat butt, it weighs in right at 1600. The heavier wheels/tires along with the extra weight of the supercharger may contribute to a little more than I suspected. I was hoping for closer to 1400.

No, I was not able to get F/R ratios.
 
B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I'm not sure how much I'd trust those scrap yard scales. While I'm sure they're calibrated to a certain level, I don't think accuracy is "too" important as they really just use them for loaded versus unloaded weights. They can be off by 200 lbs or whatever but the difference will be the same.

I'm sure it's a really close ball park figure though which is probably what you were going for anyways. No need to be accurate down to the gram.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Briann1177 said:
I'm not sure how much I'd trust those scrap yard scales. While I'm sure they're calibrated to a certain level, I don't think accuracy is "too" important as they really just use them for loaded versus unloaded weights. They can be off by 200 lbs or whatever but the difference will be the same.

I'm sure it's a really close ball park figure though which is probably what you were going for anyways. No need to be accurate down to the gram.
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Agreed. I'd like to find another scale and check the Front/Rear. Lonny has a set of scales.
 
ncgoblin

ncgoblin

Goblin Guru
ctuinstra said:
Actually I did keep a spreadsheet to keep track of what size/length and where they go. My notes may not be perfect and this is not every bolt, just ones that I have ordered/replaced so far. But it's a good start. Attached is the Excel files zipped up.
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Great list were these all thread, or not? I am going to put together an order.
 
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