Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
Depending on how the tubing for the side pods is assembled you might not have a choice. If you have them bent from side piece of pipe then you cannot have them as squared off as they are with the PVC because the tubing benders cannot make that tight of a bend. That's what happened with mine. The bends were no where near as tight as with the PVC just because the tubing bender could not bend it that tight. But it grew on me and now I like it better because the bends better match the ones on the main roll bar hoop.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Ya Tim the regal sensor defiantly won’t work. The sensor hole has to be machined to .945”.
I ordered an f40 lsd install kit from b3design along with the sensor clamp. It has everything you need along with detailed instructions. If you don’t want to go that route I can get you more details.
Workingman, I checked Rockauto and think I found the right speed sensor - F35 manual trans #55556839. Can you confirm this?
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Do you have website link or phone number for B3 Design?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
My normal Friday off today, the home boss didn't have anything on the honey-do list, so I'm out in the garage tinkering. It's starting to warm up here in the desert - should kill off this Wuhan virus soon - and was thinking about cooling ME when I finally get to drive my car. Was looking at the space around the radiator between the sides and top that gaps to the hood seeing that air will go around the radiator and not through it. That gap needs to be filled in to push all the air coming in the front through the radiator. Hmmm, I'm thinking this gap could be put to good use. :rolleyes:

Have already been designing in my head an idea for twin cooling scoops on either side of the radiator, to fill the gaps, to direct air to a heat exchanger that will be mounted behind the radiator - so I don't have to cut holes in the hood for NACA ducts. There is a good 2 inches in width and 12 inches in height to grab enough air volume to blow through a heat exchanger.

The gap on the top of the radiator is big enough to also put a scoop and air plenum to the underside of the hood to grab the rest of the high pressure air that would be wasted. A big flat panel with an opening an inch in front of the radiator is all that is needed, the panel gets bonded to the inside of the hood. Got out the cardboard and mocked up the panel and did a test fit of the hood onto the frame - perfect fit. The panel is 10 inches at the front tapering to 22 inch at the rear and is 33 inches long, shaped to fit against the bottom of the hood contours. A fiberglass panel and a pair of universal vents off eBay and I will be much cooler when driving! :D

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Capturing all this air to prevent the bypass and using it for cooling - heat exchanger and cockpit - will kill 3 birds with one stone. :)
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
I had similar concerns with the gaps around the radiator. All the air coming in the front of the hood could pass through the radiator - ideally. Taking a page from the airplane group, I think some nice form fitting baffles around the top and sides would be pretty easy to accomplish. I have been rolling this idea around for a while now. My solution may end up a little simpler than yours. :)
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Being a lifetime aviation person myself, seeing good cooling air going to waste is almost a sin. In my mind, if I can utilize this for something needed - cooling - and not add any drag to the car, then it is a win-win. I got side tracked this afternoon and didn't get as far as I would have liked to get today, but as I've said many time before - I'm not in a hurry and I want everything done right. :cool:
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I am also wanting to avoid cutting holes for ducts in my hood. The front end is already difficult enough to wrap, don't need it any harder. I would know ... I already failed. Twice.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Ark, I will be tinkering with the heat exchanger cooling ducts in the next couple weeks, you may want to see what I come up with - and avoid my mistakes. The gap between the side of radiator and the inside of the hood is substantial and 1/2 of the air coming into the front will go around the radiator in the stock configuration. This is probably ok for those driving in cooler climes, but out here in the desert that could be a bad thing.
 

George

Goblin Guru
Ark, I will be tinkering with the heat exchanger cooling ducts in the next couple weeks, you may want to see what I come up with - and avoid my mistakes. The gap between the side of radiator and the inside of the hood is substantial and 1/2 of the air coming into the front will go around the radiator in the stock configuration. This is probably ok for those driving in cooler climes, but out here in the desert that could be a bad thing.
Check out a video from banks engineering about their pikes peak race truck and the use of water

Brad
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Interesting videos. The water injection discussion is a no brainer and may be a part of my build someday, funds not withstanding. Not sure how they are relavent to my current discussion about the gap around the radiator?
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
That was Mike Ryan that toasted the rig. the local triumph dealer ended up giving him a new triumph tiger to race up the mountain and he did make it to the top. Here was his story:

 

George

Goblin Guru
Interesting videos. The water injection discussion is a no brainer and may be a part of my build someday, funds not withstanding. Not sure how they are relavent to my current discussion about the gap around the radiator?
Some where in my build log is information on how I directed the air through the radiator.
Brad
 
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