Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
On my side pods the front hoop is 1.5" diameter tube and the rear is 1.25" diameter. I believe it is the same wall thickness as the chassis too.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
On my side pods the front hoop is 1.5" diameter tube and the rear is 1.25" diameter. I believe it is the same wall thickness as the chassis too.
Oh I see. They were just trying to match the diameter of the tube they were connecting to. The main cage on the goblin is 1.5x.095” the engine area is 1.25” and the braces are all 1”

I have dies for 1.5 and 1”. I did not get dies for 1.25”
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
How tight can you go on the 1 inch tube? I'd like a more squared off look which will give a better fit on the inside for the heat exchangers. I will get the dimensions tonight.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
3” CLR. Dies for my bender are about $300 each so I don’t have the luxury of too many options unfortunately.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Justin,
I made the measurements on the mock up side pod I put together and put them down on paper. Hopefully the photo of my measurements is clear enough to see my chicken scratch and the 'scale' (one square is 2 inches by 2 inches). I made the drawing for 1 inch diameter tubes using a 3 inch radius on the main tubes. The drawing is for the driver's side, the passenger's side would be a mirror image, obviously. The 2 cross tubes are welded at the center of the tube bend arc, which may not be clear in my sketch. If more stiffness/support is needed additional cross bars can be added. Hopefully it makes sense.

Tim
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
This is crazy! It has been 1 year since I started my build log, where has the time gone to?!? Too much time at work has been eating away at the calendar and another year has escaped. I need to get myself more focused on this project and get some things accomplished that can show some progress beside the boxes of parts collecting dust in the garage.

I do have some 'minor' things completed, but am still working up the 'dry-fitting' things on my chassis to determine what additions and changes, like brackets and side pods, will be done to it. I have more parts to purchase (coolant tank, circulation pump, plumbing, etc.) that will determine some of these chassis changes which is, in part, causing some delay in my progress.

I have been putting off the wiring, since some things will be relocated in my chassis (like the main fuse box) to a different location in the car. Also some of the other mechanical changes will require additional electrical wiring that will need some rethinking of the 'basic' wire routing once they are in their final locations in the chassis. I do need to get this started, but have been dreading it since I know it will be messy and put the cuss meter in motion. ;)
 

Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
This is crazy! It has been 1 year since I started my build log, where has the time gone to?!? Too much time at work has been eating away at the calendar and another year has escaped. I need to get myself more focused on this project and get some things accomplished that can show some progress beside the boxes of parts collecting dust in the garage.

I do have some 'minor' things completed, but am still working up the 'dry-fitting' things on my chassis to determine what additions and changes, like brackets and side pods, will be done to it. I have more parts to purchase (coolant tank, circulation pump, plumbing, etc.) that will determine some of these chassis changes which is, in part, causing some delay in my progress.

I have been putting off the wiring, since some things will be relocated in my chassis (like the main fuse box) to a different location in the car. Also some of the other mechanical changes will require additional electrical wiring that will need some rethinking of the 'basic' wire routing once they are in their final locations in the chassis. I do need to get this started, but have been dreading it since I know it will be messy and put the cuss meter in motion. ;)

I totally get where you're coming from. Just last week I decided if I am going to make the 100 ft. drags in Rigby ID with Kenny this year, I have to make changes to the schedule. I decided to slam the car together, a few quick frame mods, intercooler pump and heat exchanger brackets, cheap paint and then after Ken leaves home, I'll pull it all back apart and make it how I want it.

I'm sure yours will come together very quickly after a few of those decisions on part locations are made.

That wiring......many a Goblin has been stalled out due to it. That first step is the hardest I'm sure, of course this is coming from someone who sent his wiring in to the Doyle's to do.

You got this. Just another elephant.
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
DS, I'm confident that when you do get your car done, it'll be a great example of a well-crafted machine.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Several hours of tinkering today. Decided I didn't want my radiator fan attached directly to the radiator core. I've have radiator failures in the past using the 'through-the-core' mounting tabs, they are also plastic (something that does not hold up for long out here in the desert), and I just don't like to do the quick and easy that may fail at some inopportune time in the future.

I took a steel plate (about 0.060) and made a fan mount bracket. The bracket will be welded onto the stock front radiator brace/bracket so the fan is directly behind the radiator when it is bolted in place. The fan is 1/4 inch behind the radiator and will have a foam rubber gap filler to ensure all air is pulled through the radiator. BTW, the bracket weighs 16 oz. so it doesn't add any significant weight to the nose of the car - though that is the place you want to add weight. ;)
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Thanks. Problem is no one will see it since the bracket will be mounted between the radiator and the fan - other than those who see it here in the forum. :)
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Found an issue that will only affect those with the F40 and using a new 6 speed shifter. The shifter mounting plate on top of the center tunnel has asymmetric bolt pattern to accommodate a 5 speed shifter. The 6 speed shifter has symmetric holes and it will only bolt up to 3 out the 4 holes in the shifter mounting plate. I have sent Lonny and Adam a separate message about this, but am wanting to know if anyone else with the F40 mod has seen this and what was done to correct?
 

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Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I noticed it a while ago. I am planning on having the fab shop cut out and weld a new section onto the shifter base to gain the extra bolt hole in the proper position. I'll most likely have it done over the summer after I get the started on the assembly of my Goblin.
 

WorkinMan55

Member
Hey desert. I have an 08 cobalt ss/tc that I have done an f40 swap in. The kit I used came from zzp. The way they addressed this problem was to bolt a small piece of steel that they welded a bolt onto. It works great in the cobalt but I can see how it wouldn’t look very good in a goblin.
12325
 

WorkinMan55

Member
Not yet. Long story short. I preordered my cobalt back in 07 and waited six months to get it. I love my coby but now it just sits a lot. Only 88,xxx miles. I think I would enjoy it a lot more as a goblin!
 
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