Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Found the radiator air-blockers in your build log post #254. Definitely push all the air through your radiator. 
Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40
- Thread starter Desert Sasqwatch
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Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Another weekend (still nice weather for Phoenix in the 80's) and more time to tinker with the car. Made the decision that the fuel tank needs to slide over to the driver's side (someone let me know if this will not work) to make room for a water supply tank - seems there is plenty of room to do this and allow for a custom tank on the passenger side. I pulled out the cardboard and tape and made a compound-trapezoid shaped tank that fits into the fuel tank rails, between the right side of the fuel tank and the frame rails. The overall size is 6X8X14 (WxLxH) that should hold just under 2 gallons - plenty for the intercooler heat exchanger spray system. Just have to queue up someone with good aluminum welding skills to build it.
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Ross
Goblin Guru
Or use that tank for a methanol/water cooling system on the intake manifold.Another weekend (still nice weather for Phoenix in the 80's) and more time to tinker with the car. Made the decision that the fuel tank needs to slide over to the driver's side (someone let me know if this will not work) to make room for a water supply tank - seems there is plenty of room to do this and allow for a custom tank on the passenger side. I pulled out the cardboard and tape and made a compound-trapezoid shaped tank that fits into the fuel tank rails, between the right side of the fuel tank and the frame rails. The overall size is 6X8X14 (WxLxH) that should hold just under 2 gallons - plenty for the intercooler heat exchanger spray system. Just have to queue up someone with good aluminum welding skills to build it.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Question: is there supposed to be a 3/8 plus gap when I try to install the lower control arms? The front rod end is flush and the gap is between the rear rod end and the frame mounting bushing.
BTW, my laptop died and I'm trying to this on my phone, hope this works.
BTW, my laptop died and I'm trying to this on my phone, hope this works.
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Karter2026
Goblin Guru
I remember Lonny or Adam Saying a while ago that during welding the arms will warp some. Use some force and tighten the bolts up.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
OOOOHHHHHH!!!!!!! Caught a guru...........
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Seems that gap will put some stress into the arms when they are pulled into place. Not sure that can be good for the welds over time.
Yes, the arms are upside down, doesn't matter, just checking fit and they came right back off again.
Yes, the arms are upside down, doesn't matter, just checking fit and they came right back off again.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
They all have that gap. Ours did too and we questioned it and then just bolted them up. It's not a issue.Seems that gap will put some stress into the arms when they are pulled into place. Not sure that can be good for the welds over time.
Yes, the arms are upside down, doesn't matter, just checking fit and they came right back off again.
Torchandregdoc
Goblin Guru
I would expect this as normal. This is a really good example of the forces that are induced through welding. Every tube will warp when welded on one side, this one is just really apparent because of the lack of the third triangler leg. You could heat opposite the weldment and then chill, that would straighten it, but then there would be more forces internally and from multiple directions.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Thanks everyone for your inputs, wanted to be sure I was not seeing something unusual with the gap.
WorkinMan55
Member
Another upgrade you might want to look into is the 4-tech z-shift link. If cuts the throw almost in half! From first to second is just under three inches of travel and from first over to fifth is two and three eights.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
I finished up the radiator fan mounting bracket and got that welded up to the stock radiator support. The fan will be nearly flush with the back surface of the radiator. A little bit of foam tape and it will do the job.
While I was doing some thinking/ engineering about the additional cooler that will be mounted behind the radiator, in nearly the same location as the stock heat exchanger, I decided to go with a different and more easily implemented way to get cooling air to the cooler. Rather than pull air from the sides of the radiator and loop it around to the cooler - similar to the NACA ducts only inside the nose next to the radiator - the air will be picked up from under the front of the nose below the radiator.
I was planning to seal the underside of the entire car and the plate under the radiator support now has a nice large air scoop that opens directly at the location where the additional cooler will be located.
Makes sense since the air under the nose is being compressed (slightly) while the car is moving forward and will readily blow through the cooler, as there will be a slight vacuum behind it. This would also work with the stock heat exchanger, and some ducting revision, rather than cutting holes in the sides of the nose for NACA ducts.
BTW, the frame is sitting up side down, in case anyone is having trouble understanding the photos.
I've got some more metal parts to fab up soon and get the welding on the frame finished up before it gets too hot to work outside much past noon. Those 110+ degree days can be brutal!
While I was doing some thinking/ engineering about the additional cooler that will be mounted behind the radiator, in nearly the same location as the stock heat exchanger, I decided to go with a different and more easily implemented way to get cooling air to the cooler. Rather than pull air from the sides of the radiator and loop it around to the cooler - similar to the NACA ducts only inside the nose next to the radiator - the air will be picked up from under the front of the nose below the radiator.
I was planning to seal the underside of the entire car and the plate under the radiator support now has a nice large air scoop that opens directly at the location where the additional cooler will be located.
Makes sense since the air under the nose is being compressed (slightly) while the car is moving forward and will readily blow through the cooler, as there will be a slight vacuum behind it. This would also work with the stock heat exchanger, and some ducting revision, rather than cutting holes in the sides of the nose for NACA ducts.
BTW, the frame is sitting up side down, in case anyone is having trouble understanding the photos.
I've got some more metal parts to fab up soon and get the welding on the frame finished up before it gets too hot to work outside much past noon. Those 110+ degree days can be brutal!
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Karter2026
Goblin Guru
Wow looks good. I have to admit though I looked at the pics and thought why is Tim mounting the radiator upside down? Then I had some coffee and realized the whole frame was upside down.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Thanks. This is still a work in progress and hopefully will turn the way I have envisioned it. I'm taking plenty of photos and keeping measurements in case someone wants to replicate this in the future. I spend way too much time thinking about what features can be added to the car as I slowly do the dry fitting process. I will end up with a luxury car instead of a Goblin if I keep this up.
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Luxury car feature: got the fresh air plenum glassed into the hood. Three layers of glass over a fiberboard form. Will need to get adjustable vents installed, these will be up under the dashboard aimed at your knees. Any airflow in the desert, not coming from the radiator, is a good thing!
Edit: BTW the plenum adds some stiffness to the hood - bonus!
Edit: BTW the plenum adds some stiffness to the hood - bonus!
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Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Wish I was cool, my AC just decided to crap out. It's 103 in Phoenix!