Deviant Goblin - Extended Track #373 | 07 SS/SC donor

[Goblinfanclub1234]

I drilled through the square tube and bolted my seats with 3/8" grade 8 hardware.

 

[devianteng]

I drilled through the square tube and bolted my seats with 3/8" grade 8 hardware.

I started to do that, but with there things lined up it didn't make the most sense. For square tube to seat mount, I also used 3/8" grade 8 hardware. For seat to square tube, I used 3/8" carriage bolts. Both with lock washers. It's solid, and I have no concern about the strength of it.

 

[Rttoys]

Where did you get that seat?

 

[devianteng]

Where did you get that seat?

Ordered either from Jegs or Summit, but it's a Kirkey 55 Series 20" width and you can get them from a lot of different places. Need to order my seat cover soon.
I wanted the 65 Series for the shoulder support, but they only came in a max of 18.5" width, and I wanted a little more space. I was concerned the 20" width wouldn't fit, but rising it just a hair above the tunnel gave it plenty of clearance. Quite happy with it, at least when sitting in it and making motor noises...haven't actually driven with it yet.

 

[Rttoys]

Cool. Thanks. I have seen those or many of those in various configurations, some you even have to bend and weld yourself. I just want something to drop in if I do a track day.

 

[devianteng]

May 05, 2023
Received my headlights, got them mounted and wired. Bleed brakes and clutch, so hopefully I'm all good there now. Mounted up hood and windscreen, and I'm pretty well ready to go for my roadworthy inspection now. I'm expecting to get that done early next week, and my paperwork off to Frankfort to get a title and get on the road!

I am having an issue with my back up lights, they just aren't coming on. I tried jumping across the connector for the back up lamp switch, but still get nothing so I think I have a wire issue which is odd since that'd be on my engine harness, which was minimally touched. I found a wiring diagram, so just need to trace through things and possibly replace a wire, but I'll get it fixed eventually. I don't think they'll specifically ask to see that for my roadworthy inspection, so fingers crossed. Finally did my fuel tank vent as well, so that's done. List is getting small, but the big thing is the heat exchanger loop, which will be my next priority (hopefully tomorrow)!



To-Do:

• Fuel System
  • Install filler neck vent line
• Engine
  • Setup vacuum lines and boost control solenoid
  • Mount heat exchanger and plumb; 3/4" hose for loop, with a 1/2" Tee for line to expansion tank; make bracket and mount expansion tank
• Body
  • Install footwell cover, hood, and extended windscreen
• Electrical
  • Install turn signal mirrors, tail lights, head lights
  • Install license plate light mount kit
  • Receive and mount button panel
• Other
  • Alignment
  • Install Tilton brake fluid reservoir
  • Plumb Tilton reservoir and bleed system

 

[devianteng]

May 09, 2023
All roadworthy items completed, and successfully passed my inspection yesterday (performed by local sheriff's department). I've had some great conversations with my local county clerk (who handles DMV-type functions), and he's supportive of me getting this registered. Figuring the process out has been a little tricky, mainly because it's an uncommon thing for him, but I think we got it. Thursday I go back to sign some papers, submit the MCO, and with any luck, on the same day I'll pay taxes (based on the kit amount; ~$13,500) and get a plate. Not celebrating yet, though.

For insurance I've shopped local for a few quotes, and most think Hagerty. One did call Hagerty who said, "oh it's like an Aerial Atom? We don't insure tube frame cars." Per suggestions on the form, I spoke with Kelsey Bell from Rally Insurance out of IL, and she got me a quote in less than a hour. I'm happy with the rate, which was just under $1k/year. $27k agreed value policy, $500 comp/collision deductible, and $100k/$300k liability coverage. 3,000 miles per year, which I suspect will be sufficient.

I still have my reverse light issue to sort, but it's low priority right now. Also, it seems that with my front heat exchange fan connected, the engine will continue to run for ~3 seconds after the key has been removed. If I disconnect the fan, start the car, turn it off with the key, the engine stops immediately as expected. Not sure what that's about, but I think I'll just wire up a relay to an accessory wire and power it that way.

Another interesting call out, my stage 2 came with a set of inner tie rods and tie rod ends. I assumed these were both for the rear, but turns out the stage 2 included rod ends are meant to go on the steering rack up front. In short, all 4 tie rods are Cobalt standard, rear tie rod ends are Cobalt standard, but the front tie rod ends are NOT Cobalt spec. Kit came with Quick Steer ES2382, for future reference. Oh, and my stage 2 came with the wrong brake pads up front (thanks to @snirtman for posting about this!); bought Power Stop Z23-956 pads that should fit correctly.

All that aside, I still need to plumb up the heat exchange in the rear of the car. That's probably the big thing left to do, but I keep getting caught up in the little stuff (like adding in a battery disconnect switch, somewhat hidden behind the dash cluster). I put 4 miles on the car on Sunday, and overall it ran good. The alignment definately needs work, and I'll probably let a local-ish speed shop take care of that for me.




To-Do:

• Engine
  • Setup vacuum lines and boost control solenoid
  • Plumb heat exchanger loop in the rear
• Electrical
  • Install turn signal mirrors, tail lights, head lights
  • Install license plate light mount kit
  • Receive and mount button panel
• Other
  • Alignment

 

[Gtstorey]

The usual way to fix the run on is to install a diode.

 

[Robinjo]

PM me your address, I have a diode you can have.

 

[Josh's09]

May 01, 2023
As they say, the last 10% take 90% of the time. Lot getting done though. Used 2.5" x .120 thick aluminum square tube as seat spacers between seat bracket and seat, which raised it exactly where I needed. 4 Lag bolts through the seat base to the square tube, but I still need to make 2 small angle brackets to support the rear of the seat, but should be good to go afterwards. Seat is solid.
Made a basic bracket for a 1L reservoir tank, mounted behind passenger seat and will be used as an expansion/fill tank for the h/e loop. H/e has been mounted, but still need to plumb it all.

After fighting brake fluid leaks, I've decided to replace the factory reservoir and DF relocation bracket. My donor's reservoir was toast, so I bought a new one. Accidentally ordered one for an automatic, so it didn't have the barb fitting for the clutch, so I drilled and tapped the plug and put a fitting in there. No leaks there, but I don't trust it long term. However I'm having leaks from the o-ring and coming up and over the DF relocation bracket. Disassembled the system twice, and decided if I had to do it a third time it was getting replaced. Went with the 3 chamber Tilton 72-578, which I really like. It has -AN4 fittings for each chamber, so I have new pre-made braided lines on order and should be here today. Will remove the factory reservoir today as well.

Went with the DF offered mirrors and taillights, which have been mounted and tested but I need to solder the wires and tape up/zip tie to frame. Headlights ordered from Amazon -- Audexen 7 inch round high/low light with DRL, DOT and SAE rated. About half the price as the Dominator, and I like the look. I don't expect to drive much at night, so spending a lot on lights were not a priority. Still waiting on more button panels to be made and sent to me, so I will likely have to temp wire a horn button so I can do my roadworthy inspection next week (KY cares about headlights with high/low, tail light/brake lights, turn signals, mirrors, horn, and windshield). I will start a separate thread for the KY registration process, but I don't expect it to be anything too difficult. By design, KY would want to register a "partial kit car" (meaning with parts from a donor) with a rebuild title, and that's a no go with me. I had a great conversation with my county clerk and he was explaining that there is a process for a clean title if it's a "full kit car". He alluded that if I show receipts for the kit, I can call it a full kit and not have to call out specifically the engine/trans or other donor parts (minimal for my build -- engine, trans, subframe, bcm/ecm, dash cluster, parking brake tubes...that's it). My to-do list below is basically everything left to do to be on the road, but I'm focused on the items needed for my county sheriff roadworthy inspection first. I'm off work next week, so big plans.

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To-Do:

• Fuel System
  • Install filler neck vent line
• Engine
  • Setup vacuum lines and boost control solenoid
  • Mount heat exchanger and plumb; 3/4" hose for loop, with a 1/2" Tee for line to expansion tank; make bracket and mount expansion tank
• Body
  • Install footwell cover, hood, and extended windscreen
• Seating
  • Mount seat and harnesses
• Electrical
  • Install turn signal mirrors, tail lights, head lights
  • Install license plate light mount kit
  • Receive and mount button panel
• Other
  • Alignment
  • Install Tilton brake fluid reservoir;
  • Plumb Tilton reservoir and bleed system

Where did you get these 3D printed brackets holding the aluminum bars for the Tilton Res? I am in the same situation and looking for a way to mount this thing.

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

these things?? 1.5" tube diameter right??

Amazon.com

 

[Sebnuts]

PM me your address, I have a diode you can have.

What diode are you guys using? I noticed my car ran for a little bit after I turned the key off with the heat exchanger fan hooked up. It wasn't 3 seconds, but still noticeable.

 

[devianteng]

Where did you get these 3D printed brackets holding the aluminum bars for the Tilton Res? I am in the same situation and looking for a way to mount this thing.

Just using cheap bar clamp mounts.

Amazon.com

What diode are you guys using? I noticed my car ran for a little bit after I turned the key off with the heat exchanger fan hooked up. It wasn't 3 seconds, but still noticeable.

He sent me 2, and I wired one up and it's working great. Happy to send you the last one I have, or I can get the number off it here in a bit and share that with you so you can order one.


Gosh, can't believe I haven't updated this build log since May. I guess once you're on the road and driving, you get lazy on stuff like this. Big update coming soon...