Deviant Goblin - Extended Track #373 | 07 SS/SC donor

[devianteng]

The LSJ block has a spot for an oil pressure sensor here. Some sensors can do pressure and temp in the same sensor.

Thanks for the info. I'm wondering if I can put the factory sensor in that capped off plug in the block; I've eliminated the factory oil cooler therefore I no longer have the factory spot for that oil pressure sender. I've installed the ZZP oil cooler plate which gives me 2 -10AN fittings, and I can get a -10AN adapter that gives me a 1/8" NPT port for something like an oil pressure gauge, but I think the factory oil pressure sender is M12x1.75 so may have to find an adapter to put the sender in that spot. However, I'd like to put an actual oil pressure sensor in that spot with an electronic gauge in the cab, so we'll see. I don't have to figure all this out today.

I just checked and the later models do have the oil pressure switch reporting through the ecm and can trigger a P code. The manual doesn’t indicate that the fuel pump is cut. I will turn on the oil pressure light. The way I read the manual, I think it will trigger the light and code even you ground the switch, but it isn’t completely clear. It seems to check the status of the switch both key on/engine off and key on/engine on. I made a manifold to connect both the switch and a pressure gauge to when I built mine.

Thanks! P code, that can be easily suppressed. Not sure if an oil pressure light can be suppressed though. What I'm gathering is I should make an effort to keep this oil pressure sender and relocate it somewhere where it will work as expected.
Would you happen to have access to info about the sensor located at the bottom of the overflow/expansion tank? I want to replace the tank with something nicer and larger, but not sure if I should worry about that sensor or if it can be removed all together.

 

[Dale E]

Isn't the sensor in the coolant tank a simple float that lets you know your coolant is low? With a see through tank like stock, why would you need it?

Delete it!

You should be able to replace the coolant tank with anything you like -- even a home made one from something like an old polished aluminum fire extinguisher with your connections and a weld on cap bung?

Make it yours!!

 

[Gtstorey]

Would you happen to have access to info about the sensor located at the bottom of the overflow/expansion tank? I want to replace the tank with something nicer and larger, but not sure if I should worry about that sensor or if it can be removed all together.

All I have is the Service Manual for the 2010 model which matches up with pretty well with the 2008-2010 models. I can see what it ties to and we can speculate on whether the earlier models are the same.

 

[Rauq]

Would you happen to have access to info about the sensor located at the bottom of the overflow/expansion tank? I want to replace the tank with something nicer and larger, but not sure if I should worry about that sensor or if it can be removed all together.

There's GM replacement overflow tanks that don't include the sensor, suggesting there's Cobalt models that don't have them, although I'm not sure which ones they are. I and many others have deleted the sensor by tying the leads together that used to connect to the sensor so you don't have a constant low coolant level in the gauge cluster.

 

[devianteng]

November 08, 2022
Big progress has been made, and I've successfully cranked over the engine! Fuel system connected (made some fuel lines using 3/8" ID 300 psi rubber fuel line), all coolant plumbing finished up (driver side I ended up using two pipes for a perfect fit; Dayco 70789 and a Dayco E7188 -- passenger side I used the included Dayco 72049) coolant tank mouted. Fuse box mounted and all connected up, battery cables put in. Fresh fluids (Valvoline VR1 20W-50 oil, coolant).
At this point I was ready for my first start and it went something like this:
key in, turn key, dash lights up, turn key to crank...nothing. Double checked all my grounds, and a few other things then I found a bent pin on the bottom of my fuse box, and after correcting that was ready to crank again. Crank, started, runs for about a second, then dies. After reading a little, I believe this is because I do not have my MAF sensor connected (my donor's was trashed, and I have a new one on order which should be here later today).

Overall I consider this a win, and fingers crossed connecting a MAF sensor later will let it run and idle as expected.


So what's next? I still need to figure out my oil pressure sending unit situation (ultimately looking for a way to retain the sensor if at all possible). Beyond that, finish up my stage 1 kit by getting the sub-frame mounted (I believe I need to buy a new rear trans mount since I didn't save the donors?), and see what hardware I have left to see what else needs to be done. Once life aligns, I'll get my stage 2 kit ordered, as well as seats, wheels and tires.

 

[Ark :D]

It should run without the MAF connected. The sputtering and dying may be due to getting fuel fed to the engine for the first time.

 

[Robinjo]

It should run without the MAF connected. The sputtering and dying may be due to getting fuel fed to the engine for the first time.

Won't it run terribly though? My air filter fell off during a drive and I noticed a difference in the running immediately.

 

[Joebob]

If it is firing but dies after a second or two, it could be the air in the fuel line. You can turn the key to run but not start and let the fuel pump prime. You can then get a towel and bleed the fuel and air out of the fuel line through the fuel rail vent valve. Do this a few times and it should start up and stay running.

Joe

 

[Josh's09]

i am down in Clarksville all the time. Your welcome to check mine out and once it gets warm. i can offer you i ride as well. View attachment 28772View attachment 28771

What spoiler did you go with on this build?

 

[devianteng]

@Ark :D, @Robinjo, @Joebob, it was definitely an issue of no MAF. Connecting a MAF still had the same issue, but putting the MAF in my donor intake pipe and hooking that to the TB, started right up and idled pretty good. If I disconnect the MAF, it would die. Have to have the MAF connected and in line or it wouldn’t stay running.

uploaded a video to IG.

Derek Horn on Instagram: "She’s alive! New MAF sensor showed up today and allowed it to start, idle, and run great. Milestone! #dfgoblin #kitcar #projectcar #cobalt #lsj #supercharged #supercharger #m62 #f35 #intheshop #inthegarage #exocet #exocar #deviantgoblin #df373"

36 likes, 4 comments - deviant.goblin on November 8, 2022: "She’s alive! New MAF sensor showed up today and allowed it to start, idle, and run great. Milestone! #dfgoblin #kitcar #projectcar #c..."

www.instagram.com

 

[Ark :D]

That's strange. Absent a MAF, your ECM should default to MAP sensor readings to run. It wouldn't run well, but it should have still run.

 

[devianteng]

That's strange. Absent a MAF, your ECM should default to MAP sensor readings to run. It wouldn't run well, but it should have still run.

So that’s what I though, but not what I encountered. HOWEVER…I suspect my MAP sensor may be dying/dead since it’s throwing a p0107 code. Haven’t had the chance to really look into it, but I’m happy enough that I’m able to start it now. Need to get the laptop out with HPT and do some logging and look over things.

 

[devianteng]

So that’s what I though, but not what I encountered. HOWEVER…I suspect my MAP sensor may be dying/dead since it’s throwing a p0107 code. Haven’t had the chance to really look into it, but I’m happy enough that I’m able to start it now. Need to get the laptop out with HPT and do some logging and look over things.

Building off my last post, I've been spending some time on this P0107 DTC. Confirmed with HPT logging that I get no MAP reading, though I get an IAT2 reading -- this would likely explain why my car won't run at all without the MAF connected. I started another tread specifically for the P0107 here.

Aside from that, I've not had much opportunity to work on the car between family illness, Thanksgiving holiday, and cold weather. I have put together a list of to-do's to finish out my stage 1 build, while I wait for my stage 2 kit (not even ordered yet -- short version is we moved a few months ago and put a lot of money into our old house, waiting for it to sell before I order my stage 2).

In no particular order:
* Replace brake booster -- confirmed mine leaks; always suspected it needed to be replaced since it looks beat up
* Replace MAP sensor -- suspect mine is bad, currently troubleshooting harness while new MAP sensor is being delivered
* Retape part of main harness where I fixed my low speed data wiring issue
* Add connector to starter signal wire -- to make it easier to remove the engine harness in the future
* Fix coolant leak with lower radiator hose -- likely just need to tighten worm gear clamps
* Mount engine subframe -- May order new control arms; easier than cleaning my up existing and replacing bushings
* Order new rear trans mount
* Wideband O2 sensor kit -- buy and install; incorporate into engine harness?
* Fuel tank vent hose -- my stage 1 kit was missing an adapter I believe, so this never got done

That's really it; just a bunch of small stuff. Aside from that I can start shopping things like head/tail lights, mirrors, catch can, oil cooler. Not a priority right now, but will be next up if I'm delayed much longer on my stage 2 then I hope.

 

[devianteng]

Been a while since I've posted, but not much has been done.

Got my stage 2 ordered this week though, so hopefully things will pick back up once it starts to warm up outside some more.

I'm currently shopping wheels, and would love some advice. Looking at a few different Konig (Backbone, Tandem, Dekagram) and Enkei (T6S, Kojin) options currently. Leaning toward a 17x9 wheel, 5x114.3 (redrilled hubs) bolt pattern, and somewhere around a +20 to +35 offset. With a 245/45R17 (Toyo R1R??) tire, I'd still be right around factory diameter I think, so speedo would still be nearly accurate (factory is 215/45R18, which is 25.6" diameter - 245/45R17, which is 25.7" diameter).

Any feedback on my wheel size choice? Any other wheel options I should explore similar to what I'm looking at?

 

[Rttoys]

17x9 is perfect for a 245. It also gives you the option up to 275.

i’m running 245 front and 275 rear on 17x9 all around.

 

[devianteng]

17x9 is perfect for a 245. It also gives you the option up to 275.

i’m running 245 front and 275 rear on 17x9 all around.

Thanks. I was planning to go with a square setup, but I’m not stuck to that idea. What made you decide to go smaller on the front?

 

[Rttoys]

Looks and traction were my main reasons. The rear width is narrower than the front (I think by an inch or so, can’t remember exactly right now), so a square setup just looked off to me. To “correct” this, I used 1” spacers in the rear to help make the rear wider than the front and it looked much better to me, but a little wider tire just seem was going to be the icing on the cake.

Then, at autocross, I wasn’t getting the traction I wanted (wider wheels haloed this too) and the rear didn’t seem to stick as well as I wanted, so I decided to go a little bigger in the rear. The 17x9 wheels gave me the option for several different size tires without stretching or crushing them outside of their specs. A 255 and 275 were my options and after much thought, I decided on the 275 rear and love the results.

Now I love the looks and traction. Plus, with the wider tires in the rear, I don’t use the spacers anymore either. The rear is narrower than the front, but you really can’t “see” It.

note, I went from 17x7.5 wheels with 245s all the way around, to 17x9 with 245 front and 275 rear.

old setup vs new

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Russell, great looking photo - could be a DF Kit Car gallery candid!

 

[Rttoys]

I love that picture. The lighting and everything was just right. Then all of these slow cars had to park around me.

 

[devianteng]

@Rttoys Thanks for the great info. I've got several 17x9 wheels I'm looking at, and for tires I'm looking at the Toyo R1R.

Based on your feedback, I'm currently considering 275/40R17 on the rear and 245/45R17 on the front. Both tires are 25.7" overall diameter, which is the same size as the factory Cobalt (which is also a 245/45R17 I believe). Speedo should still be accurate.

The 275 is ~1.2" wider than the 245, so that means I'd gain ~2.4" width in the rear, which I think makes it close to the same overall width as the front. In theory it seems like a good setup, yeah?