Dragon Motorsports 2.0 [Extended\Open-Frame\Easy Entry Door Bars] - [2007 LSJ SS Donor] - [Frame #392]

PaulPerger

PaulPerger

Well-Known Member
R888Rs are fine budget friendly tires for the track and autocross, and even for around town driving if you don't drive around town much. I would NOT recommend them for daily driving. They are a much softer compound and the typical roadways will eat them up rather quickly.

I use them on my Fiat 500 Abarth for racing and I get around 400-500 miles on the track out of a set of them. I would be shocked if I heard of anyone getting 5,000 miles out of them on the roadways.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Race and Autocross for cars weighing 2X our cars. I daily my Goblin on R888Rs, on the street, highway, everywhere.
Yes they do wear out quicker, but my Goblin isn't getting lots of miles. More like my motorbikes, which also get pretty short tire life.
I just want to keep my car out of the ditches, and be able to use the throttle. Full throttle, every drive at some point, even if it is a short pull, it puts a smile on my face. Not everyone drives this way, so you need to buy the tires that work for you.

I made this car because it is light and quick (like motorcycles), and tires are a limiting factor. All my race vehicles have rubber as the most expensive consumable. More than fuel, brake pads and worn parts. When I do road trips, I take a vehicle with windows, AC, and long lasting tires. This vehicle is my performance vehicle, mostly dry weather, the engine is my radio. It is my motivating, stimulating, exhilarating, stirring, inspirational therapy.
 
PaulPerger

PaulPerger

Well-Known Member
Ross said:
Race and Autocross for cars weighing 2X our cars. I daily my Goblin on R888Rs, on the street, highway, everywhere.
Yes they do wear out quicker, but my Goblin isn't getting lots of miles. More like my motorbikes, which also get pretty short tire life.
I just want to keep my car out of the ditches, and be able to use the throttle. Full throttle, every drive at some point, even if it is a short pull, it puts a smile on my face. Not everyone drives this way, so you need to buy the tires that work for you.

I made this car because it is light and quick (like motorcycles), and tires are a limiting factor. All my race vehicles have rubber as the most expensive consumable. More than fuel, brake pads and worn parts. When I do road trips, I take a vehicle with windows and AC, and long lasting tires. This vehicle is my performance vehicle, mostly dry weather, the engine is my radio. It is my motivating, stimulating, exhilarating, stirring, inspirational therapy.
Click to expand...
I agree. Just wanted Jareth to know they don't last very long. My Fiat is only 2,200 pounds and I eat through them. What size wheels/tires do you use?
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I'm on 275mm tires on 17x10.5" wheels. I'm going to get a little over a year out of these tires, so probably under 5000 miles, but sooo many smiles, lots of excessive force, and just stupid donuts with grinning passengers. Goblin on!
 
Jareth

Jareth

Goblin Guru
Trying to get seatbelts out and the first bottom one came out very easy, top one won’t budge :mad: high potential of stripping the head.

Will applying heat to it maybe help?

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Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
The bolts are loctited by the factory, heat will help. But if all else fails, the cutting torch and/or grinder with a cutting wheel are your best friends. :cool:
 
Jareth

Jareth

Goblin Guru
I’ll tell you working in this SWFL heat S#&ks, but was able to make a little more progress with the tear down. Had to use a flame thrower on some of the nuts to get them off.






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Jareth

Jareth

Goblin Guru
Yippee Ki Yay,

Just got the call from Stewart Transport that they are scheduled to pick up Goblin Kit 2.0 #392 on the 26th or 27th for delivery to SWFL :)

Got to get my A$$ in gear and finish up the stripping of the donor so that I can move the carcass out of the way.

Also just got these yesterday & today.






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Jareth

Jareth

Goblin Guru
Put evert ounce of strength into trying to remove this F’er and can not get it to budge, got the other 3 lose but not this one :mad:

Don’t think heating up this end would help?



When I go out today for lunch I see if I can pick up a 3’ breaker bar? This one is not cutting the mustard.

 
Sluggonaut

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
MAP gas for a while will get the heat up where it needs to be. Have you tried an impact yet? I would think heat and an impact will work before a 3' breaker bar does.
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
There may be some added resistance on that bolt if the sleeve through the control arm bushing is putting side loads on it. I didn't have an issue getting mine broke loose but flexing the control arm to be parallel to the ground proved to be the difference between pulling that bolt out with my Milwaukee power ratchet and needing beefier tools.
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Even if you break it or have to grind the head off, you should be able to drop the subframe off and replace the bolt.
 
TravMac

TravMac

Well-Known Member
If I remember right, this has a capture nut in the rail. Chances are the capture nut in the frame is probably toast too. Even if you make it spin, you'll probably just break the cage and it'll never come out. If you cut the rail and get some penetrating oil or heat on the nut itself, that'll do it. I had to resort to that on my teardown too
 
Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Many of us cut through the floor of the car to get access to that cage nut. It was unpleasant to say the least.

If you end up cutting through the floor, make sure you wear eye protection and gloves.
 
Sluggonaut

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
My front end came apart fine but I had the pleasure of dealing with the caged nuts when trying to remove the rear axle. Two of the 3 on each side decided to spin free and it was quite the hassle of cutting, heating, and swearing.
 
Jareth

Jareth

Goblin Guru
Spoke to Adam today and paid to have the 5x114.3 Re-Drilled Hubs added to my kit that is scheduled to ship next week.

Figured I might as well save on shipping.

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