Engine pulled from car. Now what?

[Blue Man]

My son and I are working our way through the tear down. Engine is out and dashboard is out. We have the rear suspension, wire harness and dashboard disassembly left.

As I mentioned, we are not really mechanical. So now I have this engine sitting in the garage that we push around out of the way when we want to get to things. It needs to be cleaned pretty bad. How do I do that?

Do I take pictures of where everything is and remove tubes and wiring? Do I pressure wash it? Scrub it by hand? Are there things that should not be cleaned and things that should? Any kind of servicing that we should do while it is out and available?

In short, what's the best things we can do to it without screwing it up?

We were able to get a local car pretty cheap, so it is just an 05 base model 2.2 with 75K on it.

Thanks!

 

[jirwin]

As far as cleaning, their video might help:

Timing chain is cheap insurance as far as preventative maintence, but that might be out of your wheelhouse. 75k is low enough where I don't think I'd bother. I'm on my original timing chain at 135k, but I'll be replacing it this winter.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I plugged open hoses and taped baggies over exposed electrical connectors before hitting it with engine degreaser and a hose. I didn't paint mine so it's not brand new looking like some have done, but it came out looking a lot better than it did.

I chose to not do any major work prior to first start to make troubleshooting easier if it didn't run in the Goblin like it did in the donor. Mine had 140k on it so I am doing the timing chain and probably a clutch/flywheel this winter.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Even with only 75K on the clock, would recommend replacing the timing chain guide bolt. The factory one will fail and replacement is cheap insurance for engine longevity.

Ecotec Timing Chain Guide Bolt

This aftermarket piece replaces the plagued stepped shoulder bolt that has a high tendency of breaking in the Ecotec 2.0, 2.2, 2.4 liter GM engine. It is far superior in every way and will not require you to replace the head that can be damaged when the factory bolt breaks. An absolute must have...

zzperformance.com

It's simply removing the old one and installing the new one.

 

[Blue Man]

Thanks for all the input guys.

The engine looks sharp, LLBenJ

 

[escapepilot]

As mentioned above, cover anything that is open or electrical that water can penetrate. I used Dawn Power Wash instead of any automotive degreaser and found it as good or better than anything I tried before plus it is not corrosive or petroleum based. I bought some chip brushes from Harbor Freight and cut them some to use as detail cleaning brushes to get into tight spots. After a thorough cleaning and drying (compressed air or sunlight), then an aluminum brightener will really make it look nice.

Replacing the timing bolt or even the whole chain isn't that difficult especially with YouTube videos for guidance.

 

[Blue Man]

Sounds like a plan.

Would it be best to replace the timing bolt and chain before or after washing it or does it matter?

And will it leave a big mess? I am probably going to have to clean it on my driveway . . .

 

[Blue Man]

A few more questions . . .

I do not have the title (supposedly the previous owner has applied for a new one and is going to send it to me. Not holding my breath) so I called the salvage yard and they need a title to take the car. They said I can section it into four parts or more and they will take it that way.

Any recommendations on the best way to do that? Is that a long process?

Also, the front right hub has some broken wires. Anyone know what that is for and do I need a new hub or can I splice that? Picture below.

There is still a component in the engine bay. I have a picture below. Do I need that? It seems to be for brakes?

Everything is out except for the parking brake and lines? Our donor had drum rear brakes. Do I need any of these components? Picture below.

Thanks, I am ready to get rid of this donor and start rehabbing the parts we've pulled.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Sawzall can make quick work of cutting up the carcass to avoid the title issue. Could also get in touch with the local fire department and ask if they want to practice on your car, it will be in many pieces when they are done.

The first photo is the ABS controller, not need.

The wires from the hubs are speed sensors, not used in the Goblin. Depending up mileage, most builders replace the bearing hubs.

Always a good idea to get all of the parking brake hardware from the donor, in case you need it.

 

[Blue Man]

Thanks a ton. It’s great to be able to get help on the forum. Especially for those of us without much car experience.

 

[Robinjo]

Thanks a ton. It’s great to be able to get help on the forum. Especially for those of us without much car experience.

I thought I had a lot of experience and building mine taught me a ton. You'll make it through it, you'll laugh and cry a few times but you can make it to the end.

 

[SmsDetroit]

Took me a few hours with a sawzall. I wouu recommend replacing all the hub if you can. Who knows what abuse they have taken. It was cheap insurance for me

 

[jirwin]

Took me a few hours with a sawzall. I wouu recommend replacing all the hub if you can. Who knows what abuse they have taken. It was cheap insurance for me

Funny to see glass cut with a sawzall lol

 

[SmsDetroit]

Funny to see glass cut with a sawzall lol

Like butter

 

[k.rollin]

Everything is out except for the parking brake and lines? Our donor had drum rear brakes. Do I need any of these components? Picture below.

You'll need the handle assembly, cable guide tubes, and the front parking brake cable (threaded into the handle, with a floating splitter thing on the opposite end) if you are planning to use the DFKC parking brake kit.

 

[Blue Man]

So this is what I have (haven't gotten the other side out yet) in the picture.

I have the handle, the cable guide tubes, but what is the front parking brake? Do I need to remove the cable from the brake hubs?

 

[Gtstorey]

Front parking brake cable was only a few inches long and connected the handle to the split plate to pull the cables going to each side.

 

[jamesm]

That cable should be connected to the handle directly. You don't need the longer cables that connect to the actual brakes as DF supplies new cables.

 

[Blue Man]

So it looks like these are all the parking brake pieces I need?

 

[95Blitz]

Took me a few hours with a sawzall. I wouu recommend replacing all the hub if you can. Who knows what abuse they have taken. It was cheap insurance for me

Hats off to you for cutting the windshield like that..