Eric's Track Goblin - 06 SS/SC donor

Esstover

Well-Known Member
Just a guy looking for a fun project. I'm not a mechanic so this will be new for me. Planning for this to replace my motorcycle on pretty days. Might check out the autocross scene but really just plan on driving it.

My journey so far. I found an 06 SS/SC on FB Marketplace. That was fun because I refuse to have a FB account so I did all the searching using my wife's account. The car I found had been sitting for a while (license plate was 2019). I was told it did not run and they provided some engine codes. I was also told it needed a clutch. I spent the first weekend chasing wiring and pulling wiring diagrams. Something just did not line up. Finally came across a post on a Cobalt forum about swapping plugs. I have since found similar folks on DF Forum talking about it. I swapped the plugs and it fired right up. I then started researching clutch issues and found good info on the leak that commonly occurs on the nipple that comes through the transmission housing on the clutch pipe. I ordered a new clutch pipe from ZZP and replaced the O-ring. Clutch is now working fine. I had bought a new battery for it and put new wipers on it. I had plans on driving my donor for a bit so I was working on getting it ready for WV state inspection. I actually sourced a headlight from 95Blitz (thanks). The only thing I was lacking was some decent tires. I wasn't ready to invest $500-600 in tires and it was becoming obvious that I wasn’t going to find any pre-owned tires the size I needed. So I drove it some anyway and ended up on the side of the interstate with destroyed front right. Put the donut on and got it home. It's been setting and waiting ever since. I put my order in on Christmas Eve (12/24/22). So I guess it's time to get started. I've watched a few of the videos. I think I'm going to try to get it to a local shop first and get the refrigerant out of it, then pull it in the garage for teardown.

Donor photo day of purchase.
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I would be a shame if the AC had a leak from sitting for so long after a hard life...dang! My AC evaporator had a hole in it from the accident it was in!
 

Sebnuts

Well-Known Member
What is the best way to resell? Am I going to have to use my wife's Facebook again?
I'm in the process of parting out right now. I'm using FB market place, there's a surprising amount of interest. I've been using "pick n pull" pricing on most stuff, but my donor wasn't as clean as yours.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Depends upon the local market too and how many people are rebuilding cars to sell. Phoenix area will snap up resale car parts very quickly off Facebook or Craigslist.
 

Esstover

Well-Known Member
Made some progress today. Biggest struggle today was with the sway bar connection the the suspension. I could not get the bolt out. Eventually ended up destroying the ball joint end of both of them (no big deal).

Front bumper off
Hood off
Doors off
Front fenders off
Seats out
Wheels/Tires/Rotors/Hub assembly off
Drained coolant

Next steps..
disconnect steering joint and drop sub-frame
start 4th video I believe on cleaning out engine bay before pulling powertrain.

Hope to have the powertrain out this weekend. Are there any SS/SC specific videos when it comes to this? The video I'm waiting is for a stock A/T.
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
Made some progress today. Biggest struggle today was with the sway bar connection the the suspension. I could not get the bolt out. Eventually ended up destroying the ball joint end of both of them (no big deal).

Front bumper off
Hood off
Doors off
Front fenders off
Seats out
Wheels/Tires/Rotors/Hub assembly off
Drained coolant

Next steps..
disconnect steering joint and drop sub-frame
start 4th video I believe on cleaning out engine bay before pulling powertrain.

Hope to have the powertrain out this weekend. Are there any SS/SC specific videos when it comes to this? The video I'm waiting is for a stock A/T.
Getting there. Keep it up!
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Lots of PB Blaster in the steering shaft connections and in the sliding part of the shaft!!! These have tendency to collect metal mites and not want to separate too easily. Otherwise you may be in need of a new one from RockAuto.

Biggest difference for engine/trans removal is the manual trans has 2 cables and the clutch connection at the mater cylinder - otherwise pretty much get everything labeled and disconnected to drop the assembly out the bottom of the chassis. Helpful hint, cut the big sheet metal cross member out of the nose to open up the engine bay - don't have to lift things too high then to get the engine.trans out.
 

Esstover

Well-Known Member
Update….

Dropped subframe
Stripped engine bay
Stripped interior panels
Dropped engine and transmission
Pulled dash
Removed seat belts

It was a big day. The dash was much heavier than I expected. Need to do some major organizing tomorrow. Managed to sell the hood, front bumper, and front fenders today.

Wish I had a better idea of what I needed to keep and what I could trash.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Keep from the interior
Dash gauges
BCM - including the fuse/relay locations
Ignition switch
EPS (electric power steering)
Steering shafts
Turn signal lever
Light sensor
Accelerator, brake and clutch pedals/box
Entire wiring harness
Shifter - if not using an aftermarket shifter
Parking brake handle, aluminum tubes and cables (if they are in good shape)
Seatbelts - if not using aftermarket belts
Seats - if not using aftermarket seats
TPM sensor - maybe
As many bolts, nuts and washers you can salvage
 

Esstover

Well-Known Member
Update! I have a number #460.
Payment has been made. Now I'm awaiting word from the transport company.

Dash is stripped
Donor is completely stripped
Had some fun with the fuel lines which may result in having to buy a new fuel pump. Is there a way to replace the connectors?
I also pulled the transmission off yesterday. Plan to mount the engine on a stand a do some cleaning.
Next is to get the donor out of the way so i can do some organizing to free up my table so i can begin on the wiring.

Some lingering items to deal with.
1. I have an A-arm stuck on the subframe. Pretty sure I will be replacing both because the bushing is shot. Will likely have to cut the bolt that goes throw the A-arm bushing to free it from the sub-frame. So I will need to find a bolt.
2. As mentioned above. The Fuel pump issue since I messed up the connectors.
3. Wiring. So the wiring harness that is left with the engine in the video is a disaster. I had to remove all the tape originally when i first got the car to troubleshoot the firing issue. I've pulled it off the engine and need to clean it up.
4. My organization is terrible. Any recommendations? I have some zip lock bags. I put a few things in them. I guess I'm going to go through the list of things that I need to save and be sure to label them. Everything else may just go in a pile for now?? Not sure.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
On the fuel pump, I broke the plastic fuel barb. I drilled it a little bigger, then epoxy glued in a barbed metal pipe, used a hose clamp to secure the fuel line. Been working 3 years now.
 

Esstover

Well-Known Member
Little update…(need some input below)

starting to disassemble engine and transmission for some cleaning. Struggling with how far to go. I pulled the valve cover and worked it over, think I’ll probably powder coat it. Pulled the supercharger today too. Don’t think I’m going to powder coat it but might throw some duplicolor engine primer. I ended up having to pull the fuel rail and injectors to get to the Allen head bolt holding the supercharger on. So now I’m debating on changing the injectors. Original plans was to just start with everything stock but I’m this far apart and I wonder if I should upgrade them while I’m here. I know nothing about this but I recall something about 60# injectors if you reduce the pulley size. If I change the injectors now does that hurt me? Will I need to adjust my tune??

other than that I’m trying to decide if I’m going to paint the engine and transmission or just leave it. I’ve seen some rattle can jobs that look good on here, not sure how long that holds up. I’m also not sure I want to go through the effort. The engine seems to be cleaning up pretty good (photos below). I would like to get the dip stick pulled to sand and paint but I’m struggling. Any advice?

Other than that the donor has been moved out of the way. Cleaning parts this weekend but I guess the wiring harness is my next challenge.
 

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Ross

Goblin Guru
I wouldn't change the injectors until you get your project on the road, running and fully debugged. Yes, bigger injectors will require a new engine tune. It is easy to get to the injectors with the engine in the goblin, so it is easy to upgrade later. My 2006 LSJ came with the bright green injectors, which are 32 lb/hour injectors, and using HP Tuners, I was able to see that these injectors are running at 100% capacity in my stock engine. So you have to upgrade the injectors before you can do any performance upgrades.

I would leave any engine upgrades until after you have completed basic maintenance items, and checked the engine for any vacuum leaks, even and good compression ratios, maybe a leak down test.

As far a cleaning the engine, a rattle can paint job did a nice job. You can give it a quick coat of paint now, and worry about all the nooks and crannies later, as you do maintenance in the future. I left my engine unpainted for the first year... got around to painting it later... basic maintenance is more important.
 
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Rttoys

Goblin Guru
It ran when you pulled it. like ross said, put it in the goblin as is and modify later. It doesn’t take much to do the pulley and injectors in the car.
 
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