Escapepilot’s 06 SS/SC Ext Track Build - COMPLETED

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
FINALLY…almost. I would have finished reworking the wiring harness yesterday if I had about 10 more feet of Tessa tape.

For those that haven’t started reworking their harness yet, don’t be intimidated. The videos make it manageable and the forum is good for answering questions. I do recommend the following items:

Tessa tape 3 rolls - much easier to work with, looks better too. Easier to unwrap than cut if you need though.
Good solder iron and solder. Have plenty of solder. I ran out just before extending the throttle wires.
Heat gun for heat shrink tubing. Safer than lighter and works great.
Copper splice rings. Electricians often use them to tie multiple ground wires together so look for these in your local hardware store. It’s hard to properly solder large wires so these are helpful.
Plenty of heat shrink tubing. You will use a lot.

I used these to label wires during disassembly and kept them on through combing harnesses. They zip tie on. I left them somewhat loose so I could cut the connectors out where needed then thread a wire through before tying in a knot. Found on Amazon. One bag was plenty. Shown is what I have left over.
27724
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
I try to spend an hour on the Goblin after work during the night. Tonight, that hour was spent fixing my screw ups. After laying in the main harness and BCM, I was ready to connect the ground lugs and the pedals. First issue, my 2006 SS/SC ground lugs were too small to fit on the 3/8” chassis ground stud. Not a big problem, I can just drill them out to fit. Except I committed the cardinal sin of drilling in soft metal and used to high a speed and destroyed the fist one. Ugh…ok, I have spare ground lugs, I can just solder on a new one. Not easy, but doable. Then, I went to plug in the brake and clutch connectors…and they wouldn’t reach. So, split the nice Tessa wrap and pull out those wires to about the same point the throttle wires exit and rewrap. Ok, NOW I can finish this step…wait, that hour is up already? *sigh*

Tips - 1. loosely install the zip ties. You can tighten later. 2. If you have to drill out the ground lugs and you can, set your drill on the lowest clutch setting. The clutch should slip before it bends anything.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I try to spend an hour on the Goblin after work during the night. Tonight, that hour was spent fixing my screw ups. After laying in the main harness and BCM, I was ready to connect the ground lugs and the pedals. First issue, my 2006 SS/SC ground lugs were too small to fit on the 3/8” chassis ground stud. Not a big problem, I can just drill them out to fit. Except I committed the cardinal sin of drilling in soft metal and used to high a speed and destroyed the fist one. Ugh…ok, I have spare ground lugs, I can just solder on a new one. Not easy, but doable. Then, I went to plug in the brake and clutch connectors…and they wouldn’t reach. So, split the nice Tessa wrap and pull out those wires to about the same point the throttle wires exit and rewrap. Ok, NOW I can finish this step…wait, that hour is up already? *sigh*

Tips - 1. loosely install the zip ties. You can tighten later. 2. If you have to drill out the ground lugs and you can, set your drill on the lowest clutch setting. The clutch should slip before it bends anything.
I had the same problem with the ground lugs.
After i beat up a couple of them (and my fingers), I found using a step drill bit works really well for enlarging them.
 

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
I had the same problem with the ground lugs.
After i beat up a couple of them (and my fingers), I found using a step drill bit works really well for enlarging them.
Agreed, I used on step drill bit on the pedal box area ground lugs and the engine frame ground lugs.
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
What length were your 3 rolls of Tessa Tape? 25 Meters? I was thinking I would need twice that much...
Yes, 25 meter rolls. Instead of using it to hold wires together, I had an abundance of zip ties that were pretty old. Used those instead and just clipped them off when I was ready to wrap that section. I have about a quarter roll left on #3.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
FINALLY…almost. I would have finished reworking the wiring harness yesterday if I had about 10 more feet of Tessa tape.

For those that haven’t started reworking their harness yet, don’t be intimidated. The videos make it manageable and the forum is good for answering questions. I do recommend the following items:

Tessa tape 3 rolls - much easier to work with, looks better too. Easier to unwrap than cut if you need though.
Good solder iron and solder. Have plenty of solder. I ran out just before extending the throttle wires.
Heat gun for heat shrink tubing. Safer than lighter and works great.
Copper splice rings. Electricians often use them to tie multiple ground wires together so look for these in your local hardware store. It’s hard to properly solder large wires so these are helpful.
Plenty of heat shrink tubing. You will use a lot.

I used these to label wires during disassembly and kept them on through combing harnesses. They zip tie on. I left them somewhat loose so I could cut the connectors out where needed then thread a wire through before tying in a knot. Found on Amazon. One bag was plenty. Shown is what I have left over.
View attachment 27724
I was debating how to label everything when I start my tear down process (hopefully starts this weekend) and this looks better than masking tape or my label maker (not sure how well the labels will stick).

I'm ordering some up since it is only $10 (found them HERE) - thanks for the tip!
 

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
I was debating how to label everything when I start my tear down process (hopefully starts this weekend) and this looks better than masking tape or my label maker (not sure how well the labels will stick).

I'm ordering some up since it is only $10 (found them HERE) - thanks for the tip!
Heat shrink tube for label makers is also a good solution if you're so inclined.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
I have used these with good success.
Amazon sticker labels

I used them all plus needed a bit more as I would cut old ones off and add new ones as you are thinning and combining the wires. Both are easy if you label the connector as you unplug it from the car.

Joe
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
Heat shrink tube for label makers is also a good solution if you're so inclined.
I actually grabbed some of the clear heat shrink tubing for labeling my completed harness as a more permanent solution based on one of the posts I saw previously.

I hadn't considered using it to label the harness as I disconnected everything. I'm sure I will settle on one of the several methods I am prepared to use once I start doing the work.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I actually grabbed some of the clear heat shrink tubing for labeling my completed harness as a more permanent solution based on one of the posts I saw previously.

I hadn't considered using it to label the harness as I disconnected everything. I'm sure I will settle on one of the several methods I am prepared to use once I start doing the work.
The heat shrink method only works if the connector is removed.
So it great for the thinning process, not for removal.
Zip tie tags w/ heat shrink work for connectors you don't cut off
IMG_8099.jpg
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
Wow…it’s been a while since I updated. Wish I was further along. Harness is done and I’m happy with how it turned out using the Tessa tape.

It’s time to start making the engine pretty and addressing the pre-installation preventative maintenance items. I’m going to wrap the engine harness with the high temp Tessa tape while I’m at it. I can’t decide if I want to paint the engine or leave it bare aluminum and just paint select items for accent. Bare aluminum will fit my theme better but the stains and corrosion are ugly. Those that painted, what is your advice for prepping?
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
Heat exchanger is installed!

Tip - it doesn’t specify this in the video, but if you have an SC or TC, the heat exchanger should be installed before the radiator for ease of installation.
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
Slowly making progress. Waiting on a few engine items so moved ahead to front suspension. Rear hubs were in pretty bad shape so ordered a new pair and went to install today and thought I had a big problem when it looked like removing the plastic abs plug wouldn't be enough. Found a mention that the whole sensor can be removed...but that left a REALLY big hole to plug. I couldn’t find Dorman 555-065 freeze plugs and the local parts store said they were no longer available so…I used the simplest solution that others had and took photos to help others.

34047

34048


I used a cut off wheel on an angle grinder to cut it down and used the edge of the plastic as a guide. I knocked out most of the remaining sensor guts using a large socket. Dorman 555-069 B freeze plugs fit over to cap with some for-a-gasket to create a seal.

34049

34050
 
Last edited:

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
So how is everyone connecting the reservoir to the clutch after relocating? I was thinking of using the same line used for reservoir to brake master but without a barb, it isn’t very secure.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I cut the stock clutch hose in half and used nylon tubing between the halves.

I found that method somewhere here on the forum and now I can't find it to reference.
 

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
Slowly making progress. Nearly at the end of all videos (archived too) and am at the point of assemble, disassemble because I forgot something, reassemble.
For anyone that has looked at the intercooler pump and thought it would be easy to rotate the pump and have the outlet point at the intercooler - don't bother...the subframe dictates it's orientation.
34521
 
Top