Hopefully, I can spend adequate time on it tomorrow and figure it out. Low beams are working. I have power to the left and right high beam fuses at the rear box but no power to the front high beam wires. Guess I have a date with Alldata (thanks, Ross).I don’t think there is any relation between starting and headlights. At least on the later models the low beam headlights don’t even run through the BCM and I would expect the older models to be similar.
Have you recently messed with your fuse box? I had a similar no-crank issue after working on my headlights and it was due to a fusebox seating issue.Made a little progress today in spite of myself. Wired up the headlights with weather pack connectors and managed to reverse the position between left and right so they are not interchangeable left to right until I rewire one side.
I need some help too…I couldn’t find an obvious reason it won’t crank now. Everything appears to have power except high beam headlights and no crank. Any chance they are related? It cranked fine before I wired in any lights.
The grounds from the fuse box looked good and as mentioned before, it has started and ran. However, I went ahead and added a heavy ground from the chassis lug under the fuse box to the transmission and Presto!, it starts again. Sadly, that didn't fix everything as I do have high beams...wired to my mirror turn signals. And my turn signal wires are going to the front.The headlight harness ground can cause a no crank condition. It was a stumbling block for a few builders at first start.
What To Do If The Engine Won't Start The First Time
I've seen a lot of post recently with those have have had trouble starting the engine for the first time. Many of them tend to be the same issues of some form or another over and over. So I thought I would start a thread about what to do if the engine doesn't start the first time and common...dfkitcar.com
And not use my custom built, ultra precision, self aligning toe plates?? I’ve heard about the string method but would have to find a YouTube on it and may use both to double check accuracy.I would highly recommend string line for alignment.
Very nice. As good as an expensive setup. Key is having two identical tape measures.Who needs fancy name brand or knock off toe plates.... View attachment 35770
I didn’t feel confident that my measurements were accurate because the flat Adam references in the alignment photos is pretty small, so I rechecked the caster and it’s off. Too much caster. Going to double check it all, but have an idea where I goofed. Since I didn’t have the toe-in anywhere close, wouldn’t that affect caster measurement?Post some photos of the heims on the arms. Something doesn't sound quite right, the DF instructions should get you very close.
Not really. Lonny always sets the caster first, then the camber, then the toe.Since I didn’t have the toe-in anywhere close, wouldn’t that affect caster measurement?
All of these seem like normal codes since we removed all that stuff.Two were for evap (P0443, P0449), one for AC (P0532), one P0452 fuel tank pressure, low voltage, and P0141 HO2 sensor Bank 1, Sensor 2
Did you happen to clean the throttle body? I had to do the TB relearn process after I cleaned mine.surges when trying to idle.
I didn’t clean it but a relearn may be the right move. At least start from a known base. I need to verify no vacuum leaks also.Did you happen to clean the throttle body? I had to do the TB relearn process after I cleaned mine.