Finding SS/TC FE5 Suspension Parts

Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Anyone with the FE5 TC suspension having trouble locating things like ball joints? I ordered a set of Moog ball joints (K80567), stating they fit the FE5 suspension - they do not. The post in the ball joint from the Moog is 0.785 inch diameter and is gapped in the suspension upright mounting location. The post on the TC FE5 ball joint on my donor is 0.805 inch diameter and it obviously fits the suspension upright correctly, since it was removed from it during my teardown. I have looked at several different ball joints at O'Reillys, Autozone, NAPA and all are the 0.785 inch diameter posts, but all stating they are a replacement on the FE5 suspension - nope. If someone has replaced their ball joints - on the TC FE5 - and has a source, please let me know.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Hey all, I posted this 6 months ago hoping that someone on the forum knows where to get a CORRECT replacement ball joint for the TC hub uprights? I have been looking for these, on and off, since then with no luck. I'm sure there are plenty of TC builders also asking this same question.
 
OptimizePrime

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
OH! I think I can be of some help here since I'm slogging through this as we speak. I purchased K80566 and they appear to be what you're looking for. One additional step you're going to have to take is to drill the ball joint control arm bolt holes ( 15/32 drill bit ) bigger. Upon completion of this step you'll then be delighted to find out the bolts Moog supplies are too short, and you're going to need to go to a big box store and get you 6 of the M12x1.75x35mm 10.9 Stainless Bolts (found in the specialty bolt drawer). At this point, you should be out of the weeds with the Ball Joint for the time being, alloy and stainless don't mesh well over the long run (maybe painting the threads going through the CA would help). Use loctite and 147lb/ft to torque them down.

PRO TIP: Buy the ball joints through Amazon they're almost 50% cheaper than advanced auto.

Stock
10526


Moog
10527


10528

10529


Let me know if you have any other questions on FE Control Arms!

For those reading this with FE5 alloy control arms with ball joints that are riveted on yet look decent enough, for the sake of your sanity don't upgrade. Same thing goes for the leading control arm bushing.
 
Last edited:
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Thanks for the info. I ordered a set, will check them when they arrive to be sure of dimensions. Interesting that these parts are not advertised as FE5 specific, but show as being compatible to the FE3 and FE1 suspensions. If these are truly the 0.805 dimension they will not work in anything but the TC uprights - unless the mounting hole is drilled out to a larger size. :rolleyes:
 
OptimizePrime

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
I do want to caution you though, if I were to do it again I would have just purchased the complete control arm with a riveted ball joint already installed. The rivets, drilling etc. are not worth the effort and risk.

You also have to keep in mind that these control arms are now stationary for the most part, instead of being in the front, so the forces and wear will be significantly less making the decision to upgrade with new ball joints, cut the rivets, drill, new bolts etc. overkill and introduces another failure point if your bolts come loose for whatever reason.

Also, I only took it to 90ft/lbs and not 147ft/lbs - I didn't think the aluminum/bolts could take the rest.
 
Last edited:
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Proper sizing and locating the holes using a drill vice and drill press, plus correct torque - 145 ft.lb. - with red loctite ensures the replacement ball joint will not become a failure item. Your experience with the ball joints was unfortunate, but was explained by the under torquing of the bolts at 90 ft.lb - 62% of the required value. My past experience with replacement with this type of bolt-on ball joints has been successful with no loose bolts or mechanical failures when following the manufacturers recommendations for hole sizes and torque. It is imperative to achieve the required torque value, stepping up the torque incrementally, to get the correct seating and bolt stretch. It should be noted that ball joint replacement at a dealership uses the same bolt in place parts.
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I considered the new arms, but was afraid I still might get into the wrong ball joint size. And trying to cut cost where I can without sacrificing quality. A little extra work is ok, part of what pushed me to start this project was getting to lazy on weekends.
 
OptimizePrime

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
Desert Sasqwatch said:
Proper sizing and locating the holes using a drill vice and drill press, plus correct torque - 145 ft.lb. - with red loctite ensures the replacement ball joint will not become a failure item. Your experience with the ball joints was unfortunate, but was explained by the under torquing of the bolts at 90 ft.lb - 62% of the required value. My past experience with replacement with this type of bolt-on ball joints has been successful with no loose bolts or mechanical failures when following the manufacturers recommendations for hole sizes and torque. It is imperative to achieve the required torque value, stepping up the torque incrementally, to get the correct seating and bolt stretch. It should be noted that ball joint replacement at a dealership uses the same bolt in place parts.
Click to expand...
My bolts aren't and have never come loose :) While you may appreciate this project, for most the juice isn't worth the squeeze.
 
Vwsaabvt

Vwsaabvt

Goblin Guru
cutting balljoint rivets is pretty simple with the right tools. Angle grind on head off and air hammer out the rivet.
 
G

gofast

Active Member
My ball joints were okay. What are the best bushings for these control arms? I've already removed the old ones. I wrote down two Moog numbers at one time but I don't know if they fit the FE5 control arms, K201295 and K200361. Are these the right ones?
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I ordered k201285 and k200361, Of course I can't confirm best or even fitment since my order was placed yesterday. Rockauto carries K201295 but doesn't show it for the TC.
 
G

gofast

Active Member
Oops, that's a typo, Yes, K201285. Please report back when you know for sure if they are the right ones. Thanks
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Finally got around to looking at installing the Moog K80566 ball joints and they have the wrong size stud. They have the 20mm stud not the 20.5mm stud needed. Are these possibly just missed labeled?
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Gtstorey said:
I ordered k201285 and k200361, Of course I can't confirm best or even fitment since my order was placed yesterday. Rockauto carries K201295 but doesn't show it for the TC.
Click to expand...
It looked like the parts above would have worked, at least they seemed to measure the same. One of my ball joints is pretty loose so since the K80566 ball joints didn’t work, all of the parts will be returned and GM control arms will be ordered.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top