Fixing my Replica

Hello again, I posted a thread the other day “Registering my Replica.” I was getting the car ready for inspection, checking lights, make sure it’s running good. And I went to turn the key a heard a single loud click coming from the solenoid, I replaced the battery and solenoid and the click still occurs. Online said it was those two reasons and can’t think of many other things, they also said starter motor. If anyone has ideas, I would love to hear them.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Is your battery good? Check the voltage at the termials, should about 12.5V. You might want try charging the battery, since it could be getting weak and doesn't have enough current output.
Next guess would be the starter. Any of the local parts stores can test it - and your battery.
After that, it could be a loose ground.
 
The battery is a day old and it’s fully charged. How would they go about testing the starter? I will check the wires again.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
One quick test is to turn on the headlights, and then turn the key to start.

If the headlights dim, then the starter is drawing amperage, and trying to rotate the engine.
- stuck motor? Can you rotate the engine with a socket on the front pulley?
- weak starter motor?

If the headlights don't dim, then the amperage isn't getting to the starter.
- corroded battery terminals?
- corroded starter terminals?
- corroded ground strap to the engine?
- poor ground strap on the battery? Check both sides.
 
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The headlights didn’t dim, I turned the key and the whole car lost power, headlights shut off and the dials turned off. The car ran before but was taking awhile to start, maybe the starter? I can also turn the motor with a socket and wrachet.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
The key position with the starter motor is suppose to remove excess electrical demand, so some things would shut off... but not the whole car.
Getting the starter tested is a good idea.
 

AZmoto

Well-Known Member
I know one person fixed this situation by running an additional ground cable from the battery to the engine block. I had enough battery cable left from the donor to go ahead and do this on mine.
 
Update. Put starter in and headlights DO dim and car doesn’t shut off. Which is good, but still doesn’t crank. Looked at ground, it seems fine.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Im guessing you have a bad connection somewhere. The starter needs high amperage, and a large clean contact patch at each electrical connection point. Take appart each connector, starting at the battery, and work your way to the starter. Sandpaper/wire brush/steel wool clean each spot.

You can use a meter, and check for voltage drop. Or jumper cables...
If you run 12V+ from the battery to the starter post, will it crank with the key?
If you run 12V- from the battery to the starter frame, will it crank with the key?
 
I don’t have a meter currently, to do the jumper cable method I just run the Positive to post and Negative to frame without disconnecting anything?
 
Sorry if my 2 posts above didn’t make sense lol. I connected them like you said, and it started to crank the engine… I’ll clean all connections like you said and go from there.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Yes... no need to disconnect the current wires while running the jumper cables. If you test the starter motor with only one jumper cable at a time, it will help you isolate whether it is a positive wire issue, or a ground issue.
 
No issue anymore, thanks to everyone. Cleaned all connectors and put the old solenoid in, cranks fast now. Going to put some fuel in it and see how it’s running, pumped fuel into new filters because didn’t want to put all work on mechanical pump and keep cranking engine. Fired right up and runs great
 
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