Frank's Florida Street Goblin Build (#227) - 06 SS, 2.4L donor
- Thread starter CaptFrank2001
- Start date
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
Very good. I dropped off the Valve Cover and that other small cover (to powdercoat) with 4 bolts on the front of the block. Don't know what you call it and can't find a 2.4L engine diagram anywhere.
jaredthenav
Well-Known Member
Did you find a scrap yard that would take the car without taking the title? I double checked with the Pensacola compliance office (who will eventually do the inspection to register my Goblin), and they said they would need the physical title. I'm not sure how I'm going to get rid of the shell until after I get the Goblin registered...
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
I have a paper title coming in the mail from when I bought the donor. At the scrap yard I had to sign a document that verified that there was a title. I paid $10 for that. Hope I didn't screw myself on this deal.
jaredthenav
Well-Known Member
If you walked away from the scrapyard with your title still in hand, I think you're golden! I need to find a place that will take mine! I don't have the garage space to keep a Cobalt shell for the next 6 months!
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
Most will take it if you cut it in half. Or simply cut it in half and give them one half as scrap and then repeat with the other half.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
If it doesn’t resemble a car, you don’t need a title
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
Found another engine with 87K on the clock. 2.4 L normally aspirated with oil cooler. Ran a Carfax on the VIN and the mileage is correct. $600 shipped to my door (includes freight).
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
Tie Rod Ends - Well cleaning & prepping the Rack & Pinion steering. It was a bugger to get the Tie Rod Ends off. I used up my entire four letter word vocabulary over the course of about an hour. And the Tie Rod Ends are two different brands and are NOT the same design. One has a Castellated Nut the other has a Nylon-insert lock nut. One is straight the other has an offset. One has a grease fitting, one does not. Found what I believe is the correct OEM number ES800030.
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CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
Rack & Pinion - If I wiggle the steering shaft it moves about 1/8" and has some slop. But only when at the center position. The rest of the movement is good. I am guessing this is not good. Are these rebuildable?
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Frank, rebuilding the steering rack is not too tough, finding the parts to do it seems to be kinda tough. The seals and bearings are easy enough to locate, but the rack rod or pinion gear are not. I was looking myself, since my steering rack has about 1/6 inch play in it. So I searched around and found this place https://shop.rackdoctor.net/COBALT_c43.htm. They seem to be reasonably priced for a refurbished steering rack.
The auto parts stores - O'Reilly, AutoZone, etc. - also sell rebuilt and new steering racks. The prices range all over and a new rack is quite a few $$$. I'm on the fence if I will be doing new or rebuilt. I'm sure your decision point will be also.
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
Thanks for the good info. Yes, I looked all over for a rebuild kit, no joy. I found one for $123 (plus a refundable $70 core charge). It's on the way, be here Monday.
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
Rack & Pinion had way too much slop in it. Decided to pick up a re-manufactured unit. Pretty soon going to need a bigger table.
Attachments
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
Shipped the BCM off yesterday to Odo-Pro to be reset to zero. Trying to get as much done as possible while waiting on the frame. I did pick up a second engine (2.4 Liter) with 87,000K on the clock. Being shipped right now from Connecticut to Florida. Old School, yeah that's me.
CaptFrank2001
Goblin Guru
Florida Title to my donor came in the mail today. Glad to have that. And I found out just how hard it is to get the ball Joint off of the control arm. Only took 2 hours to do one. Will try the repair route but can always get another set of control arms if I have to. They do shine up real nice with a rotary wire brush.
