Front Tie Rod Ends

CaptFrank2001

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
Went to torque the front Tie Rod Ends as per the video. It says 17mm to 50 Ft Lb's. Well it's not metric, it's sae, 3/4" I believe. It will do me NO GOOD to torque them down because the nut will not seat far enough to get the cotter pin in the hole. Unless I mixed something up these are the DF supplied "front" rod ends that came in the box in the picture. What am I doing wrong?
 

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KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Perhaps what they currently supply is different from what it was when those videos were made. Are you just saying that the hole doesn't line up when torqued to that value or is the joint spinning with the nut? If it's just not lined up you should just have to turn it a bit more till one of the nut openings lines up.

I have not installed mine yet, but at a glance they appear the same as mine.
 
CaptFrank2001

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
KSLunsfo said:
Perhaps what they currently supply is different from what it was when those videos were made. Are you just saying that the hole doesn't line up when torqued to that value or is the joint spinning with the nut? If it's just not lined up you should just have to turn it a bit more till one of the nut openings lines up.

I have not installed mine yet, but at a glance they appear the same as mine.
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I snugged them up and started to torque them & realized the nut would not tighten enough to put in the cotter pin. Not even close. You might just try to put your rod end into the steering arm & see what you get. This is how mine look.

Note: If I put a donor rod end into the DF supplied steering arm it all fits fine.
 

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KSLunsfo

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Ooh I see what you're saying, it's not going in far enough... hmm not perfectly sure what's up there, unless you have the taper on the wrong side.

Edit: I do seem to have the same exact issue.

Edit-Edit: So, after speaking with Lonny just now over a different topic this came up. Any chance you got nylock nuts along with your outer tie rods? The intent is to use the nylock nuts instead of the castle nuts.
 
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CaptFrank2001

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
KSLunsfo said:
Ooh I see what you're saying, it's not going in far enough... hmm not perfectly sure what's up there, unless you have the taper on the wrong side.

Edit: I do seem to have the same exact issue.

Edit-Edit: So, after speaking with Lonny just now over a different topic this came up. Any chance you got nylock nuts along with your outer tie rods? The intent is to use the nylock nuts instead of the castle nuts.
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I don't recall seeing any nylock nuts for the tie rod ends. I'm also not too excited about holding on a rod end with a nylock nut. The rod end shaft that attaches to the steering arm has a hole in it for a reason. I have a spare (new) set of Cobalt rod ends and I will be using them on the front with a castle nut and a cotter pin.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
CaptFrank2001 said:
I don't recall seeing any nylock nuts for the tie rod ends. I'm also not too excited about holding on a rod end with a nylock nut. The rod end shaft that attaches to the steering arm has a hole in it for a reason. I have a spare (new) set of Cobalt rod ends and I will be using them on the front with a castle nut and a cotter pin.
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The Cobalt tie rods are too long for the front. You won't be able to align the front end without running out of threads in the steering rack.

These are the ones that were supplied with our car two years ago and worked fine.

19316
 
95Blitz

95Blitz

Well-Known Member
Here is the list of cars the ES2600R tie rod end fits. If you want to go to your local parts store to compare.

CHEVROLETNOVA1985-1988
CHEVROLETPRIZM1998-2002
GEOPRIZM1989-1997
LEXUSES2501990-1991
SCIONXA2004-2006
SCIONXB2004-2006
TOYOTACAMRY1987-1991
TOYOTACELICA1986-1999
TOYOTACOROLLA1985-2002
TOYOTAECHO2003-2005
TOYOTARAV41996-2003
TOYOTATERCEL1987-1990
 
Brett

Brett

Well-Known Member
I had the same issue. In talking with DF, the consensus was that the supplier had changed something. I went to NAPA and got a set that works great.
 
CaptFrank2001

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
What I finally did was use a new set of Cobalt front tie rod ends (That I had in the shop). I took a cutoff wheel and cut app 3/8" off of the threaded end of the tie rod. There is still plenty of thread inside the rod end & it's turned about 16 turns onto the steering shaft. That still leaves me with about 1/2" of available adjustment.
 
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SACTX

SACTX

Well-Known Member
This is the same issue that I had. I have some safety wires on there now. I have a replacement set to put on when I take it down for the winter.
 
CaptFrank2001

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
SACTX said:
This is the same issue that I had. I have some safety wires on there now. I have a replacement set to put on when I take it down for the winter.
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I ordered a set of the ES2600R as suggested by "ctuinstra". Once they arrive I will see where things stand. I want a castle nut and a cotter pin on my Tie Rod Ends !!!
 
Goblin Graber

Goblin Graber

Well-Known Member
CaptFrank2001 said:
I ordered a set of the ES2600R as suggested by "ctuinstra". Once they arrive I will see where things stand. I want a castle nut and a cotter pin on my Tie Rod Ends !!!
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You know castle nuts and cotter pins are a thing of the past? All three of my vehicles have locking nuts not cotter pins on the tie rods.

My newer Harleys don’t even have cotter pins on the front axle.
 
CaptFrank2001

CaptFrank2001

Goblin Guru
I skydive. I have never used my reserve but I have one. I also have never used my automatic opener but I have one. I have never had a castle nut on my steering come off with a cotter pin holding it in place but I have one.
 
Goblin Graber

Goblin Graber

Well-Known Member
CaptFrank2001 said:
I skydive. I have never used my reserve but I have one. I also have never used my automatic opener but I have one. I have never had a castle nut on my steering come off with a cotter pin holding it in place but I have one.
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I get that. I’m just saying that TREs with cotter pins aren’t commonplace anymore. If the next one doesn’t work you could safety wire a lock nut and still have a failsafe.
 
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